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E30-323ti

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Posts posted by E30-323ti


  1. Are you going to upgrade to a newer link and run the dual Vanos?

    I'd say this would add a lot to the drive-ability of a small disp' engine if retained.

    Mad prop's by the way.

    I'll be lucky if mine is even running again before my 5yo hits driving age.... Be no petrol left by then either.

    • Like 1

  2. The EVO arms are different, namely the Outer ball-joints sits further forward, but still centrally in the control arm hole.

    There should be no difference between the pre96 and +96 (EVO) balljoints themselves that the BW kit replaces with the offset bearing.

    Whilst the US of A got a bored & stroked M50, all the suspension is per the euro spec, EXCEPT the brake rotors, which they got as conventional 1pc cast iron, not the 2pc floating alloy/iron rotors of the euro market.

    BUT they are dimensionally the same 315x28 with a 52.5mm height, and many in the grand ole US 0f A have used Euro Rotors on their US Spec M3's.

    EDIT: The only other factor would be the thickness of the rotor hat (Alloy Vs Iron), but this would be so small, as the rotor still needs to run centrally within the caliper-carrier.


  3. Looking good.

    Further to M3_power's invaluable input.

    If you are likely to keep soft rear springs, look at getting the Barrel shaped ones (Voltgand (VSS) do them for use with adjustable perches and a variety of rates, also the ground-control kits use this shape spring).

    You'll see the ones in M3-powers' pick have the top/bottom coils of a smaller diameter.

    The cylindrical springs will make a mess of things when/if they coil-bind, Also check if the bumpstops are still functional Vs the spring 'block height' and with that threaded perch up the top.

    And the gospel inner-web will tell you it's all fine, but most 'inner-web gods' in the US of A are running 700 to 1000 lb springs in the rear on track-only cars.

    ps. If you didn't already know, the quickest way to check for coil-bind is, to stick a zip-tie on one of the coils. As it just get pinched and goes missing if you have a problem.

    • Like 1

  4. ERW mild steel Electrically Resistance Welded (ERW) mild steel does not have an adequate tensile strength to comply with article 253 section 8.3 of the FIA regulations relating to material specifications, and is only used for non-structural applications such as roof racks where a durable product is required.

    FYI

    The NZTM-Q29, ERW Rollcage tubing allowed under MSNZ Sch A, does meet the FIA Minimum Tensile Strength requirements of 350MPa (or N/mm² as it's shown).

    The fact that it is ERW and not CDS makes the NZTM-Q29 tubing non-compliant, not it's strength.

    No deniying the fact we'd all love to have T45 cages....

    Looking forward to seeing pics of those stoppers installed.


  5. I'm installing a Floor mounted Tilton 600 Series pedal box at the moment, and the guys at Tilton are super helpful for providing MC Sizing based on the wheel/tyre size, weight distrubtion, caliper piston sizes, and a bunch of other inputs.

    Having run a BBK with front only, and on all 4, I can only agree with Steve.

    I found it surprising how different (good) the car felt once I put the rears on, which for me, was also a disc up-size and a bit more rear bias in the piston sizing.

    Looking forward to an update when you have a heap of shining new parts to show off!!


  6. Re: Wheels, I gather you have seen this current group buy for Apex wheels on Bimmerforums.

    If you're not going with height adjustable coil-overs, the 17x8.5 (& maybe the9.0's) fit without spacers, and have a tonne of brake clearance.

    Q' on the steering quick release, is it indexed so the wheel always goes back on in the right spot?

    Might pay to check the little wire hooks aren't there to balance the rotor, I recall my old 323 GTX had them.

    I'll check my M3 rear rotors when I'm in the garage next.[edit] Yes, my OE M3 rear rotors do have those little wire hook/clips on them[/edit]


  7. ^those aren't race brakes, they are just big road brakes, regardless of the pads you through in them^

    In saying that, that is all I have on my E30, Big Porsche Brembo's with Pagid race pads.

    And they do me just fine.

    The AP's the OP is looking at are proper race items, is that really necessary....... That's another story.

    As are the likes of the PFC gear from Bimmerworld

    Which would be my pick, largely based on the nice 'Direct Drive' Rotors / Hats they use, if I won Lotto.

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