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TronSpec

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Posts posted by TronSpec


  1. Morning Kerry. Your on here early.

    In my opinion anyone who puts a link up to it on this site should be banned.

    People should not only respect the families wishes but show some respect to Steve Irwin himself.

    I can see no reason why anyone would want to see footage of someone dying.

    The footage tonight of Brockie's death was almost as bad. You could quite clearly see from the wreckage how he died and it was something that didnt need to be shown.

    Mate the footage of Peter Brock's car wasn't even that bad I mean they showed it on the 6pm new's with a huge blanket over where brock's body was. Of course you can clearly see that he has slammed into the tree right on his side. I watched that with my 3 year old daughter and she was still asking questions.

    The way I see it martyn I'm not watching to see the "person die" but I'm watching to see what actually happens in situations like this. It's damn interesting. If the same thing happend to me ( brocky's death or steves) I wouldnt mind my family sharing information that might lead to something like either of those to accidents not happening again. Not so much Brockys accident as that's just the nature of the game but I still strongly believe that steve irwin would have done somthing to provoke that ray!!! <_<


  2. Yeah in a way I guess.... But it's just interesting az for me as I'm a dive instructor and stingrays are calm az. I'm sure he f**king spooked it or somthing bro. I've swam around heaps of rays and as long as you give them space they sweet as.........

    Straight up kerry I definatly mean no dis respect at all. I mean wouldn't you like to see video footage of what happened with the peter brock crash.?


  3. A friend of mine in the states rekon that the footage of steve irwin and the stingray has being leaked onto the internet.

    Can anybody elaborate??? I'd be keen on a look.... purely for reasearch purposes of course as I do alot of diving and spend alot of time in the water with rays :ph34r:


  4. Bro your car looks tough as graham.

    Not far away from finishing my car mate. Still just waiting on extractors and exhaust and gearbox crossmember then she'll be done.

    f**k it's costing me though but oh well she'll be good in the end. Will cruise up straight away once it's done.


  5. go the ireland engineering way...with the bushes i dont think you can adjust toe and camber independently, which you can with the ireland stuff

    Yeah gus is right. Sorry I should have worded it differently. Those bushe's will fix up the bad camber a bit that you get on

    lowered e30's not adjust indepently.

    "lot's of lube and force" you say gus????

    Sounds like my sort of situation :ph34r: f**k that means I need to buy some subframe bushe's cause mine are looking pretty farked and old as shet. Where can I get a set of urethane subframe bushings from in new zealand? Went to the local and they only got rubber one's....

    Thanx


  6. I've bought myself a set of urethane adjustable rear trailing arm bushe's and wanted to fit them while my car is still off the road. Was wondering what's the easiest way to get the trailing arms off so I can press the bushe's in and out? I have read that you can drop the whole subframe.... can do them in place??... disasemble the rear brake suspension and hub and go in that way? Just wanted to see what you guys reckon.

    Also has anybody allready done this mod? I notice even though my orignal bushe's were still sweet I was feeling a bit of play when pushing round corner's or high speed... hence why I want some urethane one's. Plus with these I can adjust camber and toe to extend the life if my rear tires. Most lowered e30's have bad camber so this fixes that right up.. f**k I'm rambling now. :ph34r:


  7. Here is a list of parts and basic info for the swap

    Parts Needed:

    -Engine: Any M50 or similar engine will work. We personally prefer the post 92 m50 engines since it came equipped with VANOS, a form of variable valve timing (for more info consult your Bentley Manual).

    Engine Mounts: Use the standard e36m50 aluminum engine mount arms, along with the e28 535i motor mounts. These do not have to be modified. Use the outter hole on the e30 subframe vs. the inner hole which is used on the m20 engine. The m50 engine will bolt right in, no mods, welding, cutting, needed.

    Oil Pan: An e34 525i M50 oil pan will be needed, along with the e34 525i oil sump, and the e34 525i dipstick tube and dipstick (and of course an oil pan gasket). This is needed to clear the subframe and sway bar in the e30. With the e36m50 oil pan removed, you will have to remove the e36m50 oil windage tray for clearance. There is also a brace for the e36m50 oil sump pick up that has to be removed in order for the e34 oil pan to fit. Since the bearing cap bolts have to be removed in order to take the brace out, and the fact that we do not want to wait for the dealership's special ordered parts to come in, we just broke the old bracket off by bending it back and forth until it cracked off.

    Throttle Cable: The throttle cable from the e36 will be needed due to fitment issues. We tried both; the e36 works. We also wanted the cruise control to work, so we took the end from the e36 and replaced the e30 end with the e36 connector to mate up to the throttle body. The stock routing remained the same.

    Radiator: Both the e30, and the e36 325i radiators will work. We chose to go with a new Bher e36 325i radiator which is actually cheaper than the e30 325i, by a few bucks. The hoses from the e36 325i were used as well. We found that the e30 radiator may have provided more clearance for an engine fan. We currently do not run an engine fan and we have had no problems of overheating as of yet (knock on wood). You CAN fit a fan but it is extremely close. An electric fan is ideal. Be sure to throw out the plastic thermostat housing and update this with the aluminum styled thermostat housing, and a new thermostat. This is cheap and will save you headaches later on.

    Air Intake: Due to space limitations, neither the e30 or e36 air box will fit once the 24 engine is installed. To compensate for this, we simply used a cone style filter and custom welded a bracket to hold the air flow meter and filter.

    Temperature Sending Unit: This was a pain to figure out. Cut to the chase, we use the temp. gauge sender out of the e30 m20. This is the BROWN sender with the single lead coming out from it, not the double. Threads neatly into the m50, and used the same connector.

    -Transmission: Word on the street is that the e30 M20 5 speed transmission will work in the m50 conversion. We did not do this, so the information is still undetermined. We used the stock transmission that came out of the 93 325i, but any 325i e36 transmission will work. This allowed us to used the e30 driveshaft which bolts right up to the newer transmission. Change your clutch! This is the perfect time to install a new clutch and it is no fun with this drivetrain in an e30 later on.

    Shifter: Stock e36 325i shifter base with all the accessories. We opted to go with the Z3 shifter which creates a shorter throw in the shift pattern. We found the Z3 shifter to be better than the stock e36 shifter handle, but we were not as wild about it as some people are. But $79.95 beats $300 for a UUC or similar handle.

    Transmission Brace: Stock e30 transmission brace, was used along with optional e21 320i, transmission mounts. We chose these mounts vs. the standard e36 mounts due to their thicker 12mm studs and better overall structural integrity. If you use the 320i mounts, the transmission brace holes will have to be enlarged from 10mm to 12mm to accommodate the studs, and the transmission ears also have to be opened slightly.

    Reverse Light Switch: e30 reverse light switch, can thread into the e36 transmission. This will allow you to use the existing reverse light switch wiring. The e36 wiring that comes on the engine harness can be neatly tucked away.

    Guibo (Flex Disc), THIS IS COOL!: We found that the standard e30 10mm bolt holed guibo can work with the swap. Does this mean that the e30 guibo can be used on the e36? Perhaps! And it is $20 cheaper than the e36 guibo. If anyone has more info as to whether or not this will work I would love to know.

    -Driveshaft: The stock e30 5 speed driveshaft will work fine, or you can also use the e36 driveshaft that had the four bolt rear section that mounts to the differential output flange. The later e36 shafts with the CV joint style will not work. If you are using the e36 shaft, be sure to install the e30 driveshaft center support bearing.

    Haha Nice cut and paste smokenbaby............. <_<

    Mate this swap has being covered heaps. Check out R3vlimited.com . I've put the 92 e34 nonvanos motor in my e30 with my standard 320i 5spd behind it. Car's running but not quite driving as I'm still making gearbox cross member. The biggest issue you've got with your swap is the wiring and ews security that they have. Hence why I used the older nonvanos motor. If you really want the 2.8 then get one out of a e34 or e39 and use aftermarket computer. If ya got any question's just ask dude. I know this swap inside and out........

    post-746-1156749041_thumb.jpg


  8. And you should really try to get the whole prop shaft from the manual, not just the front half.

    I forget how many times its been said, but the prop shaft is balanced as a complete unit. If you replace half the shaft with one from a different car it will need to be rebalanced.

    If you are careful the carriers can be swapped over between driveshafts to get around facelift/pre f/l differences

    Exactly what Grayham said B)


  9. On an August morning in 1978, French filmmaker Claude Lelouch mounted a gyro-stabilized camera to the bumper of a Ferrari 275 GTB and had a friend, a professional Formula 1 racer, drive at breakneck speed through the heart of Paris.

    No streets were closed, for Lelouch was unable to obtain a permit.

    Ferrari in Paris

    That Ferrari is f**kin tough even with it's open diff.

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