varun1794

Pre or Facelift? Facelift run two senders - one each side. Check all connections/earths

Hey guys my e30 fuel gauge has stopped working the fuel light works but the gauge jumps insanely back and forward, the level sender has been changed so I'm guessing its the gauge itself.... Any tips on what I can have a look at before I go hunting around for a cluster?

Everyone knows what one looks like, but here is a picture. Looks exactly the same but with no notch down the side.

Came off an SA e30 325i. Needs a clean but it is otherwise good.

$150 ono, need it out of the shed asap so open to offers.

0211272738

hey mate you reckon itll fit a e30 m50 with a few allterations

ok so a

3.73 will give you 2600rpm at 100km/h

or 3.64 2550rpm 100k's

3.91 2750rpm at 100k's

will it be a big sacrifise on accelerration say fom a 3.91 to a 3.64

choose the revs you are happy with at say 100km/h

anything other 2800rpm is getting pretty buzzy .

if you want a race car then 3500rpm etc is ok

my 328i with 5spd 1:1 top does about 2650rpm at 100km/h

so which gearbox are you using??

hey mate im using a getrag 240

lucky you iv always wanted a m52 haha

well im still kinda lost with the ratios a bit n hav no clue wats goin on with the small and medium case stuff so ill do a bit of reaserch n then read this post again haha might understand it better

thanks 4 the help everyone

hmm i shopuld probably go for acceleration since im never gonna be hitting 200 kmph around here

if im correct a lower ratio would giv better top speed biut slower acceleration?

I have a 3.64:1 medium case for $250

do u know how many ks on it by any chance?

which gearbox do you have.

if you are using a e30 type box getrag 240 or 260 then something like a 3.46 3.64 3.73 should be ok

if you are using a e36 gearbox getrag 250 or zf tyoe etc with the 1:1 top ratio then you want lower numbers like 3.15 3.23 3.46 etc

i would say your orginal e30 diff would be something like 4.1 or3.91 etc should have a tag on the back of the diff

i take it its a small case diff , the replacing it with another one the same size will be easy if you want to change it to amedium case diff which can handle the power better then you will need the medium case axles to match

go to here to work out how many revs at speed etc

http://members.dodo.com.au/~wawawa/revs.htm

select your gearbox and diff ratio etc

wow thanks that just made my life alot easier haha yea i think its a 3.91

sack/save up and get an LSD. an M50 in such a light car is lethal without one, especially given the way it is no doubt driven. noone puts an M50 in an E30 to drive like a nanna. if you cant afford to do a conversion properly, you shouldnt have done it in the first place

well considering iv blown my budget on the car and only just got everything running right i dont think its a good idea 2 pay 600 for a lsd if i just got offered a open for 250 aslkongas its in good condition

hey guys i just blew my diff on my e30 320i facelift witch has a m50b25 in it, wat do you guys reckon is my best coice for a diff ratio? im not sure what ratio my old one was and also i dont hav much more then 200 to spend on the diff so sadly i dont think a lsd would be a option either

if anyone has a suitable diff for sale plz contact me

Possibly have a vac leak for it to be idle surging.. mine was real bad... ALL the Vac hoses had holes/f**ked.

and replaced the clip/oring under the inlet manifold which is a whole FOURTEEN dollars at the dealer, worth changing.

thanks but iv already done both those things and 99 % sure its not a vac leak

that appears to be the correct type for a non vanos m50 , is the correct size one 2.5L not the smaller 2l one??

also some nz new and uk ones had a idle screw adjustment on the side of them??

sorry but im not quite sure what you mean by the 2l part? the car is a 2.5 but not sure about the afm and also there is a idle screw on the throttle body thats all

cheers

thanks will give you a call on thursday

throtle cable is sorted

ok so i had a afm with the part number 0 280 213 011 and replaced it with the same one from euro autospares but they both act EXACTLY the same the idles surges 3 times from 600-1000 then 600-1200 once then back to 600-1000 3 times. so it kind of has a consistant way of surging that repeats itself but as soon as i unplug the afm (old or new) it idles perfect.

so im thinking i have the wrong afm?

Hey guys need some expert advice. Still struggling to get rid of my idle search the car is a e30 with a m50b25 nv in it and it has no vacuum leaks just had a new charcoal canister put in and Just tried a new afm the car idles fine at cold but as soon as it warms up at all it starts to surge. I also have a e34 525 afm for sale and need a throttle cable ASAP

Cheers

Varun

oh sh*t i just remembered! the exhaust doesnt have the 02 sensor hooked u to the car.

is that whats causing the idle hunt or is the exhaust shop right when they said thats not whats causing it

cool fan is sorted

but still worried about the idle, i forgot to mention it was blowing white/blue smoke and smelt a bit rich. mechanic said its afm or icv so still to test for vacum leaks

1) the idle is really jumpy once warm so wondering its afm or icv

make sure there are no vac leaks , biggest thing to cause rough running etc.

2) my viscous fan nicks my radiator. ive heard you ca either swap for a e30 pre facelift radiator or get a electric fan system. what one do you guys reccomend? or do you have any any options?

does your car have a factory aux fan on the front for air con etc

if it does just use that , replace the fan temp sensor in the radiator for a lower temp setting type like from a e36 318ti .

if it doesn't have AUX fan then get one from a e34 etc or even a e30 one might do and switch it using the factory bmw parts like i mentioned above

sweet ill check for vac leaks and also wold that fan method you suggested be cheaper then the electric fans?

not really.. im not brilliant with engine diagnostics. my guess would be your ICV or your TPS sensors but someone more knowledgable on the topic will chime in. I really only posted in this thread to tell you about the fan thing

oh yer well still thanks alot for the help

1) this is a typical side effect of having a lightweight flywheel, though someone might be able to offer suggestions to smooth it a bit

2) dont run the viscous fan, just use the factory E30 aircon fan running off an E36 318i/ti temp sensor (commonly called a 88*C sensor)

3) dunno

lightened fly wheel? r u sure because the idle surges from roughly 500 to 1200 rpm if it is the fly wpuld you be knowing how too solve it

hey guys

my e30 m50b25 nv swap is up and running but i have run into a few problems

1) the idle is really jumpy once warm so wondering its afm or icv

2) my viscous fan nicks my radiator. ive heard you ca either swap for a e30 pre facelift radiator or get a electric fan system. what one do you guys reccomend? or do you have any any options?

3) i also9 need a bracket that holds the plasic sleve of the throtle cable but that is not urgent as i can always just make one.

any help would be higly appreciated

cheers

hey guys iv got a 1990 f/l e30 320i with the twin exhaust from the m20b25

iv just bought a m50b25 to swap in and was wondering if there are any bmw parts that can make those headers fit my exhaust or is custom wotk required

synthe bmw in takanini

one more question guys im about to get my e30 back this or next week with the m50 and since i work at a fabrication shop i was going to build a custom alloy cold air box and get a pod filter but my question is do you loose hp or torque becaquse obviously i dont mind gains or the sound from them but i wouldnt do it at the cost of loosing power

Custom work is required to your existing front exhaust pipe and to the rear manifold to clear the steering shaft

ok sweet aslong as i dont need a whole custom exhaust made.... i love the sound of bmw exhausts