Assault

I wish more people would do this conversion actually. Then they can sell me the S50's for a more appropriate use

They just arent as common and would probably cost a lot more than the VT diff. But in saying that, the cost of converting to the VT diff would probably end up being more than just getting a medium case diff unless they are close enough to bolt on (which I highly doubt). Anything is possible though.

A super charger might be a cheaper way to go, but like I said before, you need to research the hell out of it. I highly doubt you will be able to do your project for $2k, or even close to it, not properley and safely. In addition to the bits you quoted above you will need: custom exhaust fabrication to mate it up to the turbo, somewhere around $200 for that Oil feed and drain lines as well as fabrication/alteration/fittings to get them to and from the engine, probably at least another $200 for that. I doubt you will get your intercooler and piping all done for $200 unless you get a free intercooler, I would expect more like $500 for that. When you FI a non-FI engine (turbo or supercharged), you can pretty much garauntee that you'll need to upgrade you injectors. Upgrading injectors means your ecu will also need to be altered or replaced to handle the injector change and supply fuel appropriately for the lower air/fuel ratio's (i.e. more fuel). IF YOU DO NOT DO THIS PROPERLEY SAY GOOD BYE TO YOUR ENGINE. Incorrect air/fuel ratio's can lead to detonation and engine damage or destruction. I would suggest that you investigate what others have used as ECU's when FI'ing these engines. You may be able to get away with a piggy back ecu, which will greatly bring your costs down.

If you use an M3 front and rear end to go 5 lug you will be able to use a standard set of replacement braided lines as the M3 setup is pretty much the same as the 325i. E36 front end with E36 318Ti rear is probably fine too. Cost is obviously the major factor in doing a 5 lug conversion so I would forget about doing the Z3M Coupe/roadster change as you'll probably have to get the parts new. Not cheap! if you can get them, the 318ti trailing arms and brakes are probably the easiest way to go as outlined on http://www.ubersaloons.co.nz/uber3/5lug.htm the expensive part being the E36 front control arms as they will most likely have to be bought new. The issue with this set up is that the front wheels tend to sit back in the wheel well compared to stock but using offset control arm bushings will help with this bringing the wheel forward a bit more. This may not really be a problem for most people though.

There is no real point in doing it on an inline engine. V or W or flat/horizontal formations can have benefits from a twin turbo set up obviously because of their layout (cylinder heads on both sides of the engine bay) unless you want to get technical and go sequential, which I dont recommend really. The single turbo will be alot better in terms of fitment and if sized right will perform just as good if not better than a twin setup.

There is no real easy or cheap way to go on this and I dont recommend skimping out on anything at all. The best piece of advice I can give is the more you know, the easier and cheaper it can be to do. I'm a turbo man and I would suggest turbo over supercharger but you should make your own decision based on research about what will suit your purpose/goal/budget. Make your first purchase a book called "maximum boost" by Corky bell, it will teach you pretty much everything you need to know technically about turbocharging. Things you may be looking at having to do to get it turbocharged are: custom exhaust manifold custom downpipe and exhaust piping turbo of some sort (obviously) custom intake piping and intercooler Wastegate and plumbing blow off valve (bypass valve) and plumbing Turbo oil feed and oil drain (possibly another oil pump to feed the turbo) bigger injectors bigger fuel pump Fuel pressure regulator ECU change (including tuning) or remapping to accommidate increased need for fuel and adjust timing Possibly a new/stronger head gasket and head studs possibly new/stronger main bolts That basically cover it I think, I dont think I missed anything out off the top of my head, there will be a bit more to it than just this but these are the major things.

O.k. so looking a little lost for space there.... without seeing it in person I couldnt say whether or not you'd get the golf sized booster (about 7" diameter) in there if it was moved as far as it could go. Being a V8 it's gonna be the same on the drivers side so either way you might as well start looking at what you can do about remote setup's. So you could do either the E23 hydraulic booster setup (or similar/aftermarket) moved over the extra 50-60mm (this would probably end up being the cheapest and its not very hard to move the setup over), or customized on the drivers side with no linkage. Putting anything on the drivers side is gonna end up requiring some pedal box customization or replacement and you're still gonna have the space issue. You may even be looking at replacing your clutch master cylinder to something that mounts differently so you can do the brake linkage properley. Hence why this will probably not be an easy or cheap way to go. Alternatively there is always the option of completely not running a booster and customizing the linkage to the master cylinder so that it wouldnt be too hard to stamp on the brake pedal and retain decent braking ability. This has been done by guys in the states on their E30's. I would say you'd still have to move it over but moving it is not too much of a mission. Having been under the dash and having a look at the linkage, it wouldnt be impossible to have a setup under the dash and just remote mount the reservior(s) back into the engine bay. Again though, a normal vacuum booster is not so practical there so a hydraulic one would be needed i would say.

Having ABS is on the E30 is not an issue as far as the master cylinder goes, although the abs pump and plumbing may take up a bit more valuable engine space. I cant really tell that well from the photo's but it doesnt look at bad for space if you were considering the golf booster. The reason we went with the setup that we have is also because the euro S50b32 or e36 M3 evo engine has a rather large intake plenum and the master cylinder as well as the booster hits the plenum. So we needed a smaller booster and master cylinder as well as maintaining a decent amount of braking pressure for the 6 pot wilwood rapists on the front. Now your situation is a bit different in that you only really need to get the booster out of the way. This presents you with a whole lot more options than we have/had. You can retain the standard E30 master cylinder or upgrade to a 23.8mm E30 M3 MC or a 25mm E32 750i MC which will all work with the standard booster and save you a lot of cash where it may not need to be spent. Now your options in regards to boosters: The Golf 1.3 mkII or Renault Clio servo (booster) on the left (also Golf MkI GTI or Porsche 944 are pretty much the same) versus the standard E30 one. You can tell there's quite a difference there in size (believe me it still boosts enough). However this booster requires a slight mod to the actuator rod of the standard master cylinder to reach the booster, not a big deal. Now this can be moved over an additional 57mm toward the outside of the car. Which in total will be around 4 inches all up and should be more than enough for you. Moving it over is not quite as easy but I can tell you exactly how as I will be doing it too. Another option is to use the 325 IX booster and master cylinder which is basically a straight bolt on, but this will probably still need to be moved over too There's also the E23 hydrulic booster option: But the way I see it, either do it as cheaply as you can, or go the whole hog and rip out the battery tray and install a custom setup on the right hand side with no cross linkage. I will update this post when I get a bit more time

Now this I need, nothing worse than getting low on gas in some area where you're not that familiar with the petrol stations and keep running into substandard suppliers i.e. non 98. And those that know the car I drive know it throws more gas down the tail pipe than me after a hard night on the beers and curry.

Bugger, I would have liked this for the dirty mitsi.

http://www.ssperformance.no/e30film.htm

Personally i would never touch an "off the shelf" chip. These may be more agressively tuned for performance but as they are not specifically tuned your engine they may run too rich or too lean in areas and therefore may result in poorer perfomance and/or economy in areas and in worse case scenarios it may result in engine damage. Getting a chip that is tuned for your engine with your car on a dyno using air fuel ratio and exhaust gas temperature readouts would be a better way to go, but I have no idea who can do it for later model bmw's over here.

I dont see the need for running a second set of injectors on your set up, replacing your current set of injectors with bigger ones would suffice as they wont be so big that they become slow. Running a second set will just mean you have to spend more on getting a custom intake manifold made up and a second fuel rail as well as fuel lines to it. here is a link for rough injector calculation: http://www.injector.com/injectorselection.php Put in your target HP and put in a BSFC of about 0.65 for a turbo engine, put in the number of injectors (6) and you dont really want to run your injectors over 80% duty cycle to keep a bit of head room so leave it as 0.8 There you a go, a rough estimate of what you will need minimum to run the target horsepower. Of course this is assuming a base Fuel pressure of 43.5psi. There are more complex calculations out there to incorporate more factors for better accuracy if you need it. As far as a rising rate fuel pressure regulator (i.e. 1:1.7 etc) goes, stay away from these if you are running an aftermarket ecu, it will just make tuning harder. Just run a normal 1:1 adjustable fuel pressure regulator.

I would say you'll be able to run up to 8psi max on the stock engine with the ARP bolts and studs, probably a bit higher if the head gasket drops the compression. If you've got the cash, a garret BB turbo such as the GT2871R or GT30 series with probably a .63 exhaust housing would make a nice hairdryer, and reach boost threshold at a reasonably low rpm without running out of puff in the higher rpms. Otherwise if money is an issue maybe look into the T3/T04e range of turbo's, they should suit your application. These are just my suggestions based on what others are running on these engines but I recommend you talk to a turbo engine builder with some expertise in this area as they should be able to come up with an ideal set up for you.

I'm running an EVOLink in my Mitsi so naturally this was going to be the choice for our S50 powered E30 project but after a little investigation we found that the Link ECU's (even the latest G3) doesnt have intelligent variable valve timing control. Simple vtec switching is possible but not more complex vanos control. This will be the reason why they have developed a new evolink for the evo 9 as the evo 9 has a mivec head on it which is intelligent variable valve timing. Their other ECU's dont have this degree of control yet. One of the few full replacement ECU's that we found would do the job was the Autronic SM4 which will suit our plans perfectly. As the M50 is very close in makeup to the S50, this ecu would be good for your project but for what you are doing you might want to investigate piggyback ecu's as a few guys overseas are running them on turbo'd M50's

What fuel pump is it running and what fuel pressure regulator? Base fuel pressure needs to be checked. If those injectors are rated at about 340hp then the duty cycle shouldnt be getting maxed out. Not for only 210HP at the wheels anyway, I doubt there'd be much more than 50hp difference between engine and wheel HP so they should be adequate for what you are running. Looks like your boost control needs to be tuned properley and your boost limit raised a bit.

Good point, there is a different way to connect up some boost solenoids for boost controllers on external wastegates and I've seen several people set them up wrong. Its not a hard mistake to make either. I can check it over if you like, give josh a call or something.

The wastegate actuator would probably have an opening pressure of around 8psi or so, at a guess, without any boost control solenoids so it would probably be an inconclusive test to run it with the solenoid bypassed unless you used something like a manual boost controller to up the boost, but even then its unlikely the manual boost controller would be stable. Plumbing the boost gauge from the Plenum/intake manifold would be a good place to start and ensure the Motec is plumbed from there too. As conrod said, some adjustment of the boost control duty cycle may help the fluctuations. Getting the Wideband unlocked would be a nice help if you are gonna tune it yourself. EGT and Knock monitoring would also help alot if you want to get a good tune so maybe some Motec tuning on the Dyno would be the go.

As this system will be based on Manifold Air Pressure, it will be tuned as RPM vs Boost essentially so running more boost will not change the fact that it is running rich at 14psi. From what I understand the ECU is not tuned for this engine as it was tuned for the previous engine which has now been replaced. So, Retuning and setting up your boost control maps will sort out the problems.

Cops dont care about car theift, there's more important things to do like catching people that accelerate too quickly or lose traction or exhausts that sound too loud (this should be limited to honda's only).

Right well in that case, your rails are worth a small amount over at www.mmc.org.nz forums so dont throw them away. Plenty of mitsi-heads need rails for different seats in their lancers. In addition to that, you can use any mitsubishi evo recaro seat as they all share the same rail mounting points on the seat (although the rails are slightly different to suit each shape of evo) so, evo 1,2,3 (even early gsr) recaro's share the same rails and evo 4-6 share the same rails and I believe the 7-9 share the same rails though I cant confirm that one.

are these mitsubishi evo 3 recaro's we're talking about?

Nice write up I can see that being very handy in the near future. One point though, the water lines running to the throttle body are not really needed as New Zealand temperatures dont get low enough to cause a problem with the throttle body. The water is only going through it to warm it up on very cold days. When I last changed my throttle body (non-bmw) I just bypassed the throttlebody all together. Also in regards to water cooling the turbo, it has minimal effect on the operating temperatures of the turbo, so much so that I have been told by the turbo guru that you dont need it at all. It infact only assists in cooling down of the turbo once you have finished thrashing it in a sort of effort to eliminate turbo timing. If you are diligent with the warming down of your turbo engine you should not need water lines running to the turbo. In effect you could save some money in this region, all be it small amounts but a few hundred dollars in hoses and fittings is significant.