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Moupe

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Everything posted by Moupe

  1. Given the odd sizing as a set, I have decided to sell them as pairs. 2 x 225/45R18 - $675 ONO https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/wheels-tyres/tyres/listing/2945895980 2 x 255/40R18 - $825 ONO https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/wheels-tyres/tyres/listing/2945898081
  2. Just seen this! Thanks @leichtbau. I specifically went for a plate that only people on here (or other car nerds) would get
  3. Thank you! I saw your post but the profile was too high. I went 265/35R18 and 235/40R18 in the end.
  4. Price reduced to $1600 Note that the tyres are also listed on Trade Me but at the original price (would prefer to sell directly through here to a forum member )
  5. Sure thing. They are: Front: 8Jx18 ET42 / Rear: 9Jx18 ET30 Factory Style 224’s on an E86 Z4 M Coupe https://www.bmwoemwheels.com/en/rim-model/bmw/bmw-wheel-style-224
  6. Z4MBMW Personalised Plate Euro Plate in blue. Both plates in excellent condition. $1250 Plates in Auckland but can be couriered to the buyer. Funnily enough, would suit a BMW Z4 M (or non M)
  7. SOLD! Set of brand new Michelin Pilot Super Sport tyres (literally only done 15km on them). BMW Star rated. Paid $1967 for them but selling for $1500 ONO. Sizes: 2 x 225/45R18 and 2 x 255/40R18 Auckland pickup only (although could potentially do courier if organised by buyer). Reason for sale: not happy with how they fit on my 18" rims. Front has a mild stretched look (I prefer square sidewalls). So moving up a size.
  8. Moupe

    Bmw e91 msport 19s

    Hi Richard, I've decided to stick with my 18's. Good luck with the sale! J
  9. Moupe

    Bmw e91 msport 19s

    Thanks for that. And yeah, tyres look meaty from the pics. When you get a chance can you list your tyre sizes as well? Just trying to figure out if they’d fit my car. They look awesome on your wagon though. Would be a shame to sell for sure.
  10. Moupe

    Bmw e91 msport 19s

    Nice looking wagon Any chance of more photos close up of the wheels?
  11. Definitely a pretty simple mod that everyone with an E39 + TV Tuner should do! Especially given that the OEM Camera is, and I quote an email direct from the BMW Parts Department exactly here; "between $1000/$2500 (if the car is spec'd with the correct options to allow you to do this)". I mean WTF? It cost me $318 including the Auto Sparky wiring it in to the loom. You can't beat that. That's cheaper than even after-market reversing sensors! And this is way better.Talk to Grant (Hotwire), he'll sort you out
  12. Thanks Yeah, I guess when you have done this sort of thing tons of times it probably seems like childs play. But for an amateur like me who only tinkers occasionally, it was a slightly more involved task Hopefully my post will help anyone else out there looking to do this who is in the same boat as me or simply wants a bit of a visual clue to the steps involved
  13. Ra ro Shaggy! You would have done it by now if it wasn't for those pesky viruses! Hopefully you can get onto it again without any further hiccups!
  14. Hi Kiwiland, Here you go as promised: Firstly, remove all the trim as per the reply I just did to hybrid. This link also contains pics of a similar nature to what I did. You'll need to remove the boot lid trim, boot floor, boot back trim (covering audio and video modules), and the trim which covers the battery compartment. Next, follow Grant's instructions and fit the camera into the driver's side aperture (assuming that is side he instructed you to install it into). If you have a number plate surround, remove the number plate surround (or number plate altogether as I did) first. The gasket needs to be stuck to the camera first and then thread the wires through the same hole that the existing number plate wires are coming through (I pulled the number plate wires/plug out first). Once the camera wires are through, click the camera into the aperture. Again, Grant probably already told you this, but if not, he told me a trick to getting the camera to sit tightly and that was to bend the tabs of the aperture up slightly by using a screwdriver. This works a treat. As for feeding the cables through the conduit, I managed to do this with relative ease. I went to the bike shop and got a metre of outer brake cable casing (cost about $5). It is very stiff with still enough flex to bend where necessary. They also put a metal end on it (which keeps the end smooth, I didn't want to accidentally poke through the conduit). I pushed it through using silicone (and a bit of Vaseline on the end of the brake cable) by itself first from the top down. Once it was in, I taped the wires (one at a time) to the top end by taping over the terminals and then again about 1cm up further (to prevent the terminals from being tugged). Then I slowly pulled the brake cable all the way through from the bottom which brought the cable through all the way. Repeat the process for the second cable. It was actually pretty easy! The trick is to not only to remove the conduit from the boot lid and boot but also the big bit right underneath. Pic of both wires now through I then used the same brake cable to feed the wires (with the RCA plugs) that needed to go through the boot lid frame up to the male & female RCA camera connections. I taped the RCA plugs (did one at a time) and fed the wire up the inside of the bot lid. Another trick here was to use my pinky finger in the hole (bottom right of the pic below) to guide it up otherwise it kept on going too far over to the right and I couldn't get it at the top. With both wires through, connected them to the camera and secured them with tape. Next is to follow the instructions Grant supplied re the blue and white plugs on the Video Module. To remove the plugs from the module, you need to push the black locking tab over to the right but before you do, you need to push upwards on the centre of the plug at the same time (so to unlock the black locking tab). I used my girlfriends travel mirror to help see what I was doing! Once the plug is out, you need to slide the black insert out of the surround (basically, the blue and white part of the plug is just a surround used to connect the black insert which has all the pins in it). I used a very small jewellers flathead screwdriver to lift up on the locking part of plug and then on the opposite side (and at the same time), pushed the inside black insert out using another jewellers screwdriver by pushing through the small hole. I found this bit quite tricky. Unfortunately, I don't have any clear pics of what I did here, but I think once you remove the plug from the Video Module, you will understand what I am saying. Follow grants instructions for inserting the correct wires into the appropriate slots. As he mentioned, you can clearly see the numbering on the black insert once it is out. FYI I found this step the hardest bit. Getting the thinner video wires into the black insert was quite hard. Because of how thin the wires are, I couldn't get the terminals to click into place in the insert. However, I used a very small jewellers flathead screwdriver to gently push them in from the side. I also used needlenose pliers to ease the blue wire terminal into place (in pin 17 of the blue plug insert) from where the solid part of the wire was just out of the insert. I suggest being very patient with this bit, especially given the awkwardness of where the Video Module and plugs actually are. Here's a pic once the wires were inserted and plugs back into the module. Once I was done, I tidied up the wiring and then took it to an auto electrician (whom I had booked that day). They tapped the camera into the number plate wiring (got them to leave the original number plate plug as well) and also the relay into the loom (I gave them the info from Grant on what wires to tap into of course). They also had a holder which fitted over the relay and secured this as well. They charged $88 for this. I have nothing to compare it to, so can only assume this is an ok amount to pay. Was very happy with their work though. This part is certainly not something I would have done myself even if I DID own a soldering iron. That loom scares the living bejeesus out of me just looking at it haha. Once I had my car back, I just put all the trim back on and it was complete. Best bit is that from looking that the back of the car, the camera is almost camouflaged by the black number plate surround. Only when you look from the side can you really notice it. Total time I spent: 1 hour 50 mins to take all the trim off and install the camera + 10-15 mins to put all the trim back in. I am exceptionally happy with the result. It is a much better alternative to reversing sensors. Big ups go to Grant too. I asked a TON of questions as I didn't want to stuff anything up so I'm surprised he didn't get sick of all my emails Hope this helps make it a little easier. Seriously, as daunting as I thought it seemed before starting, it actually wasn't that bad to do. I only remember swearing a couple of times and got a bit of cramp from being right in the boot haha Get onto it Cheers, J
  15. Hi Hybrid, Here is the link I found for removing the boot lid trim: http://bit.ly/dPIfxD. Only thing that I didn't get from the pics (didn't read it properly I guess) was those plastic plugs that are mentioned in the 2nd and 3rd photos. Once you get the centre bit popped out, you actually remove the whole plug from the very base. After that, his instructions are very clear. Oh, and when you go to unscrew the screw in the handle, you'll need a jewellers phillips or similar. You don't even need to try and remove the plastic that covers it as the jewellers phillips will fit in the slot. As for the rest of the photos, they are very similar to how I did mine. Will post those soon anyway. Cheers, J
  16. I realise that these are old posts, but anyone who is looking to do this definitely should! The end result is fantastic. I've just done it on my E39. I cheated a little though and did all the hard parts myself (conduit, video module etc) myself but had a sparky tap the relay and camera wires (accessory, reverse, and ground) into the loom. Was a little nervous about doing this myself but then since I couldn't get Grant (Hotwire) to do it for me (as I'm in Welly) was more worried about getting someone else to do it (owner is always going to be more careful with his own car!). Actually found getting the wires through the conduit pretty easy. Used a bike outer brake cable lining (bought a little over a metre at a bike shop for $5). Was perfect due to it's stiffness but slight flexibility. Pushed it all the way through first, taped the wire to the top, and then pulled it out from the bottom (have to do this twice). Aside from Grants written instructions (which are great) I also took some pics and have a few useful links which assist in figuring out how to remove the boot lid lining (without breaking anything). So more than happy sharing these if anyone decides to do it. J
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