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Either: a) replace whole window with new one track down every break in each demister line and repair with conductive paint. Warning: if the strips are corodded, then a replacement window is the only cure.

I did, and I still am overseas. Try what Grant wrote. If it doesn't work on your age of TV tuner, then use my NavCoder software

If it is the genuine BMW Alpine MP3 changer, it just plugs in. Anything else will need a protocol converter to change from Alpine CD-changer-control language to BMW CD-changer-control language

I've had similay experiences with my E39 540i V8 with M62 engine It was a combination of: 1. Dirty, clogged ICV (idle control valve). Cleaned with carb cleaner 2. Faulty coil causing misfires. Replaced coil. Whether the above applies to your car is dificult to determine, as you don't mention what ytpe of car or engine you are talking about !!

Have you been therough the list of BMW-approved oils for your motor? Make sure you stay with the right oil. I can PDF the list and send it to you if you want.

Love the play on words :-)

That's because it is a 6-series :-) X3 = off-road 4WD version of 3-series X5 = off-road 4WD version of 5-series X6 = off-road 4WD version of 6-series (see the logic?) Wonder if they'll ever make an X1 or an X7....??

Even when the fuse locations are so clearly described in the Owner's Manual...?

Why don't you just buy a set of Torx bits and you're covered...??

For those who like to program their cars, view the cars internal communications etc: try my Navcoder program. New release today. Changes: v2.5.0 01 July 2008 Added more TV coding capabilities (Teletext, Country version, TV clock, backup cam) Added decoding of fuel consumption units to the country coding message Added decoding of sunroof status message (partial) Added decoding of sunroof control message (partial) Added decoding of crash alarm message (partial) Added ibus message filtering by device (From and To) Added ability to use CK as checksum as well as CS when decoding messages Added names of some extra ibus devices Fixed decoding of message 0x21 (Menu Text) Fixed names of some ibus messages (0x1A, 0x21, 0x23, 0x24) Fixed names of some ibus devices Fixed decoding of vehicle service data (litres & days since last service) Get it here: http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/kiwijoc...al/NavCoder.zip

Sounds like you have the IHKA (electronic control). Switch nighttime illumination is completely separate from the function of the switch, so the fact that the switch is illuminating with the dash lights only tells us the switch is plugged it :-) The switch assembly with the rear defogger also has the RecircAir and AC switches in it. They are both powered from fuse F23 (5A) in the fuse holder in the engine bay. Check it. You know the fuse is OK because it also powers the Recirc, Defog, and AC indicator lights. If any of these lights work when you activate the switches, then fuse F23 is OK. Defogger is switched on by relay K13 (also in the engine bay power box) Make sure you hear it clicking when you switch defogger on and off. Defogger power comes from fuse F6 (30A) If switch and relay and power are OK, then look for power at the defogger elements and check condiiton of heater elements. As for the AC, give us some more info Does the fresh air blower work on all levels? Does the AC compressor kick in? Does the AC indicator light illuminate? The AC system is a bit more complex: the AC compressor is switched on by the engine control unit (DME) upon instruction from the IHKA control unit. Exact cableing etc varies with model years - so tell us your model year and describe in more detail exactly what climate control system you have. There are pressure switches that will cause safety cutout of the AC system if you have under or over pressure (under = under 1.6bar, over = over 31bar).

Violett/yellow is the power feed for cruise control, brake light switch and light control module. If is connected to F41 (5A) above the glovebox.

Check all fuses in the glovebox. The low-cluster (KOM) is fed by fuses F18, F24, F40 (all 5A), all located above the glovebox. there is no "gauge wire" Make sure you didn't disconnect any connectors under the dash.

It'll be interesting to see what can be read on the E36, as device addresses and message types have proven to be standardised over many models and years of BMWs - so maybe you can read quite a bit.

You have an E36 My program was written to monitor the databus and reprogram devices in the E46/E39/E38 and similar series BMWs You possibly do have a kbus in your car but it has limited functionality. What do you want to access via the databus in your car?

Use your eyes. Fuses with violtet wires = switched power. F37 through F45 are all live in Pos1 (Acc), Pos2 (Ign) and Start Choose one with a sensible fuse rating for your device.

Happened on my E39 as well. Depending on the angle of the car, the rear footwell got wet. The inner door sound/weather seal is stuck on with butyl rubber The butyl rubber 'stickyness' fades over time and comes loose, and water dribbling (sorry, pouring) down the inner door trim can then make its way into the car. Had this problem on both rear doors of my E39 Solution: bought some genuine BMW butyl rubber (it's cheap but good) and replaced the whole stripe of sealant around the inner door seal, paying particular attention that the bottom section was perfect Doors are now watertight. Easy fix and worth every penny of the $20 worth of butyl rubber.

The forced airflow at 160kmph is providing more than required cooling capacity. Engine is cooling down too much Thermostat is stuck open Replace thermostat. ASAP.

Many countries have regulations that require only 1 x foglight, on the drivers side of the vehicle. Here is Switzerland we have these regulations The reason is that it allows following drivers to distiguish between brake lights (2 or 3) and foglights (1, on driver's side) So E46s here in Switzerland only activate the drivers side foglamp, even if both and fitted and wired. (due to the Swiss-market coding of the light control module)

The fuseholder drops downa nd it's dead easy to access all the fused connections behind the fuseholder. Just decide which circuit you want to tap into - and use that.

Common problems: 1. old lightbulbs soon to fail. The filament resistance changes. Buy 3 x new lightbulbs (cheap) and see if it fixes it. 2. the solder-blob centre contact on the lightbulb has worn down due to vibration, and no longer making good contact with the bulb holder. Buy 3 x new light bulbs 3. The bulb holder is corroded / dirty / oxidsed and making poor contact. Check and clean all 3 bulb holders. 4. A loose wire - unlikely. But check the connectors for the taillight assemblies are properly fitted, and clean The bulb that causes problems first is generally the centre brake light. The holders can cause trouble. Replace the bulb holder if it shows any sign of heat distortion.

Correct, a digital receiver is required to receive the digital signal (just like ana nalogue receiver is needed for the analogue signal) Also correct. You've got between 5 to 10 years of analogue TV left, maybe longer. Yes you can fit a Freeview HD receiver to your car and connect it to the AV-IN of your existing BMW TV system. Easy. No they won't because UK uses DVB-T MPEG2, and NZ uses DVB-T MPEG4. The UK is starting to experiment with MPEG4 but it is not available as a public service yet.So don't buy a digital receiver from the UK! The NZ Freeview digital TV specifications are here: Freeview DVB-T specifications

Hi,NZ analogue TV will continue to around 2012 to 2015. The broadcasters will make a joint decision once the penetration of digital receivers has reached a high enough level (around 75% of the population I think is the trigger point) as to when they switch off analogue I can reprogram any BMW TV module to make the TV work when the car is driving (TV-in-motion), which is totall diferent to Freeview. Your 2001 E39 can be made to work when the car is in motion, but cannot view the Freeview DVB-T signals using your existing analogue tuner, as the BMW analogue TV tuner cannot receive digital signals. Even the newer analogue+digital 'hybrid' tuner will not work in NZ on the NZ digital TV signals. About Freeview Freeview terrestrial signals in NZ uses DVB-T MPEG4, also known as DVB-T HD. The standard BMW Hybrid TV tuner can receive DVB-T MPEG2, but not MPEG4. So the hybrid BMW TV tuner cannot work with the NZ digital Freeview terrrestrial TV service. However, fear not. You can fit a standard Freeview HD settop box (the DVB-T box) to your BMW, and cable it to the AV-IN of your BMW TV tuner - in essence, connecting it the same way as your connect it at home on your TV. You then can watch digital TV in your car. Over time, I expect you will see some native 12V digital tuners being made available for in-car (or caravan or boat) use. These also can be readilly cabled in to make them work. But it is a gamble to get anything from overseas, as the digital TV systems are quite different, and you may find a UK box won't work here. USA box won't work at all, as they have a totally different ATSC digital TV standard.

You don't have to buy any hardware. Grant can reprogram the TV module for you. Or you can do it yourself with my NavCoder software. And if you are lucky and the car is old enough, the key-press sequence will do it for you at no cost.

Charging connection is permanent power. There are loads of switched power sources in the dash. Switched power is generally violet with a white or red stripe. You could just tap into a fused feed in the fusebox above the glovebox. Tell me what car (model / year) and I can point you to where to go.