turbolizard

Does it have automatic climate control?

It has certainly been done, but not (yet) by me.

I have ITB's on an M42B18 which is similar in many ways, and probably going to do an M44B19 in the next 12 months or so. 

Emissions are not tested for WOF.  The car is checked for "visible smoke" but it has to be pretty bad to fail that test.

49 minutes ago, gjm said:

I have to ask - why?
Why is (re)charging a battery now so complicated? Is it a dealership thing? Can they charge for this service?

The manufacturers are chasing every bit of economy and emissions reduction they can get and as a result the onboard charging systems are now much more sophisticated and less wasteful of energy.  The car is trying to optimise the charging regime, which changes as the battery ages or if a bigger or smaller battery is used, which is why it needs to be coded when a new battery is installed. 

Charging via the connections under the bonnet allows the electronics to keep track of the extra charge going into the battery, whereas connecting direct to the battery does not.

Pretty sure they are M12

I can confirm M44 exhaust manifold will work, at least on a car with no power steering (although I doubt power steering is an issue).  I used ITBs and made a custom wiring loom so cant really advise on these aspects.

I will take the shifter parts - this is turning into one of my favorite threads!

I will take the power steering delete block if Mikan didn't already ask for it.

You will want a pretty wide deck with that much area, otherwise you will be there all day.  That also means you probably want 20hp or more.

If your area is open with few trees you might get away with a manual transmission but a hydro is much more convenient and worth the additional cost.

Condensed view not working for me either.  Has been like this for a week or so since I noticed.

I haven't got an X5 but I have used NZAD rotors on several vehicles without any issues on the road or the track.  I usually bin them before they get to the minimum thickness if I am replacing pads for a second time.

This is very hard to tell from a video, but I don't think it sounds like lifters.  Maybe a timing chain slapping around in the case due to dead tensioner.  Need to listen to actual engine with stethoscope (or screwdriver up to the ear) to see where it is coming from.

Flights cancelled due to "engineering requirements"

The top two litre cars will give many of the bigger engined open class cars a run for their money these days.  They have got a lot faster in the past couple of seasons and there are more of the really quick cars now.

LKM is definitely a possibility with this weird behavior.

RaceDeck is a similar product.

Put a new water pump and thermostat into an e91.  I will be happy if i don't have to do that again for ten years.

Is the M10 ring gear the same diameter as the M20?  I don't know if they are the same or not, but something to check.  If the diameter is close but different then the starter may be in slightly the wrong position  with respect to the ring gear when installed into an M20.

First couple of pics had me thinking the Auckland roads were nearly as rough as the roads in the central North Island.  Nice car though.

I'm not an expert on wiring but have experience making and modifying looms on race boats and cars.  Putting in some effort is well worthwhile to obtain reliability as bad wiring will kill your enjoyment very quickly.

I would advise investing in proper loom tape, good crimp tools and terminals, as well as a terminal release set.  Do plenty of labeling, even if it seems obvious, and try to stick with the basic concepts used by the manufacturer.  If you can get hold of another sacrificial wiring loom then that can be a good source of the right colour wires for any extensions etc.

Strain relief is critical for reliability in a race car or boat.  Manufacturers are generally very good at this aspect, so take note of what they do.  You might need more if you thin the loom right out, as multiple wires help support each other.  Proper loom tape is very helpful with this.

Its not that hard to do, but is very time consuming.  Did I mention labels?  Lots of labels.  I use a label maker with flexible tape and put clear heat shrink over it to protect it.

What is the racing history of these engines?

I wish I could help you but I am in a somewhat related situation.  I am keen to use an emulator to get an e36 M44 running in an older chassis that never had EWS, but have not been able to program my Aliexpress emulator.  I think this might be due to not using a computer with a proper serial port. 

In any case I have a spare emulator if you can figure out how to make it work by going that route, but would suggest your best best is to fix up what you have.  Info for the four cylinder Bosch ECU seems very thin on the ground.

Great to see you have had it out on the track.  Looking forward to seeing it - assume will you be running at Taupo in November?

I'm guessing that was to do the oil pump nut and you dropped the subframe instead of pulling the engine?  I need to do this myself and wondering if this is easier than pulling the engine - which is very easy on these cars (when you have no A/C to worry about).

Voluntary insurance probably works out better for decent drivers.  If you want insurance you get it and if some idiot hits you then you can make a claim.  The people who want insurance are sharing the risk among themselves.  Making insurance compulsory just introduces all the morons into the pool and this makes it more expensive for everyone else on average. 

With voluntary insurance, all the accidents where two uninsured morons hit each other, or drive off the road by themselves, don't result in any claims (which helps keep premiums down).