turbolizard

Gear box ratios that were chosen to work with the other gears, not chosen to pass an emission test or obtain a fuel ecomomy figure.

Some of these useful to me - PM sent

You can look your vehicle up on one of the websites like realoem.com. By entering your VIN number you can see specific parts used on your vehicle.

However, I have to ask - if you don't have the tools to determine the rotor size is changing brake parts something you will be doing yourself, or will you supply them to someone else?

i have an interest.  Is it the G240 you advertised before?  I sent PM a long time ago, but still interested if it is in good shape.

i will take the cam timing tools - will PM.

You can calculate the torque from the power, as long as you know the engine speed. Power is just torque multiplied by the rotational speed, so to get torque just divide power by rotational speed. You will need to make sure everything is in the right units - using SI units you need rotational speed in radians per second.

Lots of buses have these lights - they have been common on buses in NZ for a long time.

Don't mess around with aftermarket. They will just disappoint you. Anyone interested enough to want new roundels will soon hate the quality of imitations. Genuine BMW will look good for years.

Get new ones from the dealer or from fcpeuro.com or pelicanparts.com. Get new grommets to hold them in as well - they are just a few cents.

I bought a cable for the OBDII port and INPA came with it. Was pretty cheap - about $50 for cable I think.

e34 535 manual is a more involved drive, e34 540 next,e39 540 are too nice imho.I have driven all three ,several examples of the first two,but only one of the latter.

This makes some sense to me.

I have an e34 540iS (owned 14 years) and an e39 M5 (owned 5 years). The e39 is a better car all round for sure, but which one do I most like driving? I think it is the e34.

I had this fault on 1 of 2 e30s I had. Got gears from Garagistic. The fix is easy.

The MD635 looks to still be very nice. Are these recent photos?

I would love to buy this car - I fisrt saw it in the late 1980's in Aukland and admired it then, when it was nearly new. I saw it again at Manfield just a few years ago and it lookd very good then too.

I got some Koni Sport (yellow) for my e34 540i, from TyreRack in the US. I was over there and had them delivered to a friends house so no freight charges (which often kills US purchases). I used them with the M-Tech springs that were factory supplied with the car so cant comment on the partcular combos you are interested in.

I give big ups to the ride/handling characteristics with M-Tech spings. Probably not low enough for most tastes but works well. I have them soft and they are really nice - never harsh, but still tight and controlled.

So far it is not solved.

First, I got hold of another '727 module (same part number as mine, but from an e38). I could talk to it using INPA and could code it with e39 settings using NCSexpert, but it had the same 240 Internal ECU error as my original '727 - it was therefore also dead and error codes could not be removed. Brent warned me that it is hard to find a living version of the '727.

I then bought a '789 module, which is listed in RealOEM as a retrospectively compatable supercession of the '727. I could code this module and could clear fault codes, but when I start the car I get four fault codes back (which I can clear, but reappear when I restart). The codes I get now are inplaussibility codes and the original (possibly bogus) codes have not returned. I think the coding issue I have now is something to do with the move from MRS3 ('727) to MRS4 ('789) as there are some differences in the data for these modules. I used the default settings from the VIN number in NCSexpert, so it may not be recognising that I now have MRS4.

I need to do further investigation but for the moment I am driving my more reliable US made vehicle, or my older more reliable German vehicle. It is just as well for my mental health that I think of this as a hobby!

Sorry I cant help, but transport for $1k is not too bad once you get your head around it. I have done this twice in the last year, once in NZ and once in Australia, and ended up on a transporter both times. It was similar money.

Getting across on the ferry is several hundred and by the time you add gas costs, time, getting there to start the journey etc in Option 2, the freight starts to look not too bad. One way charges on rentals are high and normally anything with a towbar has a high mileage charge for anything above about 100km/day.

Obviously the best is Option 1, if you can find it. Good luck.

Did you get new trim, or find a good condition S/H? My e39 M5 has similar minor bubbling in same place.

Damage may have been in a different order than you think. Bolt head may have come of first, jamming the cam and doing everything else.

Hitting a wasp nest with a rotary slasher. Angry little f#&^kers.

Start with the original engne loom and work it into the C101 to get the various connections to the car established. The engine loom contains nearly everything needed to make it run, so easier to start with that rather than adapting the original M40 engine loom. You might find you need to rearrange things a bit to locate the ECU somewhere suitable.

The C101 connection will provide the ignition switch connections, dashboard, warning lights etc. Most of the pins will already be correct, but there are a few small differences between cars with this C101 plug, so you need to test where things go. If you change things anywhere I would change them on the engine side and keep the car the same - that way you just have a custom e30 engine swap loom.

Use really good terminals and a proper crimper. It costs a bit more but you will save yourself a huge amount of headache in the future. Wiring has to be done right for the end result to be enjoyable. Providing good strain releif to your connections is important too. Proper loom tape is also worth its weight in gold.

Andy, I think you will find a 3.4 too tall.

E30 series cars run 4.1 which is pretty much ideal.

I realize you have a different engine but you are still unlikely to get near 230kmh on NZ tracks.

I think you will probably be better suited to late 3's or 4.1

One thing to keep in mind when comparing e30 series diff ratios is that 5th gear ratios are different. e30s have an overdrive 5th and the 1.00 ratio is 4th gear. The ZF is 1.00 in 5th, so needs a taller diff to acheive the same RPM.

I do agree that 230km/h would be pretty ambitious even with more power. Handy calculator here...

http://www.bokchoys.com/differential/e46_gear_ratio_calculator.htm

Does anyone have an airbag module for sale with one of the following part numbers (in order of preference)...

65776919789 <--this one probably best as is the most recent (and hopefully more reliable) part

65776920848

65776900727

The modules with part numbers above are for two stage airbags as used in 7' e38, 5' e39, Z8 e52 and X5 e53. If it is from a different model I beleive I can code it to the car ok using NCSexpert.

The part number on mine is 65776900727 and a search of the web seems to suggest it is one of the troublesome modules...

Thinking about the control module now - looking on Real OEM I see that there are a number of supercessions of this part....

65776900727 is... Superseded by:

65776910676 (01/01/2001 — 09/26/2001) , nonexchangeable retrospectively

65776920848 (08/29/2001 — 04/12/2002) , Exchangeable retrospectively

65776919789 (02/25/2002 — ) , Exchangeable retrospectively

I can't clear the airbag faults.

INPA seems to read them ok but when I try to clear them I get some sort of error message....

[Job status Error]-ECU rejected Instead of OK! Continue running scripts? <--something like this

I replaced the ignition switch some months ago, which solved a bunch of random behaviour. Airbag fault turned up later, but I do also have a fault with ABS/DSC module at present (previously had this repaired but it is flaky again and out of stock at maf-shop.com).

I love this car but the electronics are driving me crazy right now. Wish it worked like my e34, which seems very robust.

The part number on mine is 65776900727 and a search of the web seems to suggest it is one of the troublesome modules you mention. Therefore, at the very least I need a new control module. Is there any way to determine in advance if the error codes about the belt tensioner are legitimate or just part of the module failure?

Thinking about the control module now - looking on Real OEM I see that there are a number of supercessions of this part....

If I get one of these (retrospectively exchangeable) later modules with the newer part numbers (or if I get a working but different version of 65776900727) I assume it can be reprogrammed to suit the number and location of the airbags in my car. Is that right?

Mike

My airbag light is on and INPA gives the following error codes.

I beleive the first error in the list (240) indicates that the control module needs replacing but before i do I would like to confirm if it was killed by the belt tensioner, or if these other errors may be false due to a fault in the control unit.

For context - I have previously had false detections of sensor faults in the ABS system when it was actually the DSC control module that was crapping out.

Can the belt tensioner be independently checked?

Date: 12/08/15 08:14:30
ECU: MRS3
JobStatus: OKAY
Variant: MRS3
-------------------------------------------------------------
RESULT: 3 errors in error memory !
-------------------------------------------------------------
240 Internal ECU error
Error frequency : 1
-------------------------------------------------------------
3 ignition circuit ZK2 -> belt tensioner passenger
Error frequency : 1
error not active at the moment
battery short circuit
error is not sporadic
-------------------------------------------------------------
3 ignition circuit ZK2 -> belt tensioner passenger
Error frequency : 6
error not active at the moment
short to ground
error is sporadic
=============================================================

Thanks - I think it was gas pressure acting on one side of the piston. I'm not sure how that occurs internally, but it did feel like that.

I put a piece of rubber sheet around the base of the piston rod and pulled it really tightly in place with cable ties. This created a lot of drag as I released the nut and it all moved slowly enough to be totally controlled.

New shocks now installed with no hitches.