turbolizard

You should put a thermostat back in, or at least a restrictor the size of an open thermostat. I don't know the specifics of the M20 cooling flow path but the pump will be meant to work with a thermostat.

It is possible that the pump may not be totally effective without one and too little restriction in the flow circuit can lead to pump cavitation. This will cause a lack of circulation and ultimately pump damage. The hose sucking in may be a symptom of this situation, or could be caused by a blocked radiator (which might also cause pump cavitation).

Powerstop Engineering in Tauranga repaired my ABS module for about $400. The repair they do makes it less susceptible to the same failure in future so in that sense is better than a new one. Repairing the old one also means you don't need to program it to the car.

Did he forget to put "lambo" doors on the other 2 doors or did he decide it looked 'better' that way.

It must be so you can have the lambo, but still also have a practical family car. Two door version would just be too sporty.

You do have to wonder how some people are able to imagine this kind of thing - and then actually do it.

I also agree not to wrap the headers if you want them to last. They will get really hot inside the wrap.

I have done it two or three times and it works well. It is so much easier to take the seats out to do anything like this that I don't even think twice about it. I also take the seat out to change the microfilter, as that is a total pain with a clutch pedal in the way on RHD cars.

The Bentley manual also reminds you that you are supposed to disarm the seat belt pretensioner before taking the seats out.

I guess it goes to show that being a member of bimmersport does not automatically make you a good guy. However, there are a lot of good guys on here, so hopefully this experience does not put the OP off. There are actually many people on here that will genuinely help someone out and that is a good thing that outweighs the odd bad experience.

Maybe the tyre buyer will think different about it when he is a bit older and wiser and realizes good relationships with people are worth more than a couple of hundred bucks.

Thanks for the pointer - I did a quick search and reckon you are probably right on with this.

ebay pic below with clips installed

I already have one of these cars and even I am tempted to buy it.

I don't know this exact car but a tidy one of these for $24k is a pretty good car for the money I reckon. They are just awesome everyday cars. Drive it till it dies - you will be old when it happens.

Found this in my M40 sump - Does anyone recognize it?

It is made of reddish brown plastic and is reasonably stiff but will flex. Looks like some kind of clip about 15mm diameter.

Looking for a complete engine harness for e30 M40 or M42. M42 would be ideal but probably hard to find.

The plan is to use this as the basis for a custom harness so not actually critical which one and if I get desperate I could use anything that has the right C101 plug on it (the round one from facelift M40 car). Will run a Link computer so not too worried about the ECU end of harness but life would be easier if all connectors and plastic covers were there.

Preference is for cheap as possible as I may screw this up when I hack into it, but willing to consider whatever you can offer.

I'm interested and happy to pay a bit more for better spec.

At first glance I didn't notice anything, but what is there does actually appear to be bodged.

Given that you have just put in a K&N filter then I would check that your air mass flow sensor is not covered in oil. Overall, I reckon a new paper element filter is a better proposition.

Do you still have the clutch - I sent you PM asking some questions?? You answered the first PM but not the second one.

I got some at a Ford dealer, as there is no BMW dealer in my town. They had them in stock.

I have an interest. What is the offset?

Another happy Daikin user here. I have a ducted system and live in Taupo. It was expensive but it really delivers even when it is cold.

Trade me link expired.

I used to do quite a lot of towing of a race boat with my e34 540. It did a great job. Only issue was the extra camber wear on rear tyres. I now have a Dodge Ram which is awesome for towing but the 540 did a better job than my v8 Commodore did. Keep your cooling system up to scratch!

Facelift is after September. Cars made in October, November and December of 2000 are considered to be "Model Year 2001". The steering wheel on M5 also changed at the facelift - not sure if this applied to 540.

There are ongoing changes through the model run as part of normal development. The facelift is the most noticeable as there are a a number of visual changes to "refresh" the look.

I have a pair of e39 M5 rotors in boxes. The dimensions are 345 X 32 (min 30.4) and left and right have different part numbers. These are floating rotors with aluminum top hats.

The boxes say "For Euro M5 - can be used on US M5". I think the US M5 just had one peice rotors but I guess dimensions on US M5 must be the same if they can be used.

I don't know if e39 540i uses same dimensions but some playing around on realoem tells me 324 X 30 for some random made up build date. Maybe they changed over time - don't know and haven't experimented. Perhaps try putting your own VIN in realoem and see what it comes up with.

I can bring one of the M5 rotors to you to look at if you want, but I prefer to leave it wrapped in the plastic until I install it.

Local BP here runs 98 with a ethanol mix. Use it in both the M3 and the Duc without issue. M3 will pink on inclines running on 95.

My old e30 323i would also pink less on 98 .

Ethanol is good for keeping heads / bores clean from what I've read.

Are you talking about blending ethanol with BP Ultimate 98 to create some kind of custom fuel with (possibly) higher than 98 octane?

As supplied, the BP Ultimate 98 does not contain ethanol from the pump. Gull Force 10 has 10% ethanol in it.

You can't reco the dual mass flywheel. That's where alot of the problem is.

Probably be able to get a new flywheel made though.. ring and check with Auto Clutch. A phone calls not the end of the world.

The UUC option is a great solution if cost is not an issue

I had a single mass flywheel made for my 540 and got an uprated clutch - all through Autoclutch. It is not a bad solution and was cheaper than getting a new dual mass flywheel and clutch from UUC or BMW or whatever. It works fine. I lived with the original clutch for 5 years or so and have had the single mass in for about 5 years also.

However, if I had to do it again I would put a dual mass BMW flywheel back in with a standard clutch as it just suits the character of the car better. I liked the extra mass and very smooth operation at idle and don't like the noise I have now, which is kind of inevitable with a single mass flywheel with less damping.

I am considering changing my clutch back to standard even though it is not worn out, as I want to keep my e34 more in its original character. I feel the same about suspension. BMW knew what they were doing when they made that car. It is not a race car - its a luxury car that hauls.

Following your experience with interest, as I also have an e39 M5.

I think you have to add 3 to the US Octane figure to match ours. 98 is hard to find, that`s the issue. At the moment I might keep travelling to BP stations to get 98.

It is definitely different. Obviously more expensive..

Add about 5 to US octane numbers to get a NZ equivalent. US pump numbers are AKI (RON + MON / 2) whereas NZ pump numbers are RON. So, US 87 would equate to about 92 here. Our 98 is about the same as 93 in the US.

I was going to do this as a E36 race car. Was just going to go dry sump. Around $4K to $5K for a race worthy set up.

Thank god that car fell through though. One other car in the series lunched a number of M62's. They just can't handle the high revs.

What happened to this car? Is it now running with a six?