international 0 Report post Posted June 5, 2007 Just wondering if anyone has any experience in upgrading their audio system on a E36 before... With the stock system in place I thinking of adding an ampilifier for dual 12" subs, new head deck... Has there been any issues or difficulties of DIY or should we always find professionals to do it... If so...any good car audio shops around North Shore or Auckland? Ive tried the yellow pages...but not much sucess... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
westy 614 Report post Posted June 5, 2007 You have to start diy somewhere... Its all fairly straight forward but you dont have a lot of room for speakers in the front kick panels!! Possibilities/combinations are endless Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
3 SERIES 92 Report post Posted June 5, 2007 Hi I just installed a pretty nice alpine head unit into my e36. Went in a treat and looks real nice as it sit qute flush with the dash compared to some cheaper headunits. Just used wiring looms to suit the model/headunit and it takes anout 15mins! If you going to replace the front factory component speakers its best to talk it thru with a car stereo salesperson. There is not alot of depth down in the kickpanels and they will know what'll fit in there. Rears - just leave the factory ones in there. No one ever talked about rears plus they're not too bad. Subs - up to you what you plan to do there. Id get a pro to do the wiring and set up. Save you a bit of time and agony Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
international 0 Report post Posted June 5, 2007 Hi I just installed a pretty nice alpine head unit into my e36. Went in a treat and looks real nice as it sit qute flush with the dash compared to some cheaper headunits. Just used wiring looms to suit the model/headunit and it takes anout 15mins! If you going to replace the front factory component speakers its best to talk it thru with a car stereo salesperson. There is not alot of depth down in the kickpanels and they will know what'll fit in there. Rears - just leave the factory ones in there. No one ever talked about rears plus they're not too bad. Subs - up to you what you plan to do there. Id get a pro to do the wiring and set up. Save you a bit of time and agony Thanks for your advice there...just wondering...A guy is offering 1.1K for a system which includes: -Pioneer DEH2950MP Head-deck -Pioneer GM5200T Ampifier -Pioneer TSW301R 12" Subwoofers (2) -Custom Sub-box for a perfect fit in the boot -Cables -Installation Worth the bucks I throw at it? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jammasterjames 0 Report post Posted June 5, 2007 (edited) Hi I just installed a pretty nice alpine head unit into my e36. Went in a treat and looks real nice as it sit qute flush with the dash compared to some cheaper headunits. Just used wiring looms to suit the model/headunit and it takes anout 15mins! If you going to replace the front factory component speakers its best to talk it thru with a car stereo salesperson. There is not alot of depth down in the kickpanels and they will know what'll fit in there. Rears - just leave the factory ones in there. No one ever talked about rears plus they're not too bad. Subs - up to you what you plan to do there. Id get a pro to do the wiring and set up. Save you a bit of time and agony Diy sub wiring was pretty easy, even for an amatuer like me. Take out tha glovebox and run RCA's down the side of the vehicle through to a hole in the back seats. BE CAREFUL NOT TO BREAK NUTHIN when you're pulling out all the plastic bits!! Battery is in tha boot, so simple to hook up tha power. Buy a good crimp tool! Find the "10 commandments to Audio Noobs blog" in the car audio section here, its got all you need fo a beginner. Then buy 36 Chambers, and pump that bass, get those hoe's booties shakin!! Edited June 5, 2007 by Jammasterjames Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rogan 1 Report post Posted June 6, 2007 (edited) Thanks for your advice there...just wondering...A guy is offering 1.1K for a system which includes: -Pioneer DEH2950MP Head-deck -Pioneer GM5200T Ampifier -Pioneer TSW301R 12" Subwoofers (2) -Custom Sub-box for a perfect fit in the boot -Cables -Installation Worth the bucks I throw at it? The DEH2950mp is a pretty base level head unit, only has 1 RCA out so there'll be no control over the sub volume from the h/u. $220 for the h/u from what I can see on TM Amp is $230 (car stereo specialists) for 380rms - quite a good price I'd go 1 good sub over 2 average ones. The box for 2 subs is more $$ as well so you're better off just having one decent 12". Amp kit can be around $80. Install - guessing $200 So it looks like an OK price ... nothing fantastic but you're not getting ripped. If you haven't already, go to Car Stereo Specialists, 153 Wairau (ph444-1105) and have a chat to them. They do some great specials and give good advice. Find the "10 commandments to Audio Noobs blog" in the car audio section here, its got all you need fo a beginner. Good fella that Blackrazor (aka BR aka Dan) but is no longer in the car audio scene. There's another rule that relates specifically to Pioneer headunits. Never never never connect or disconnect RCA cables unless the head unit is switched off and the amplifier is earthed. There's a fuseable link in the headunit RCA earth track that blows. Everything will still work but you end up with hideous alternator whine and CD tracking noises. Edited June 6, 2007 by rogan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jpp 0 Report post Posted June 6, 2007 1g is a very beginners budget, yet to a beginner, it is all you need. You can quite quickly blow $1k on a HU and front speakers, but if you get a deal like this one, it'll be hard to beat, but easy to change things around, as noted above with 1 sub instead of two. Dependant on the music you listen to, should tell you what sub you need. 10" - Rock, House - Punching music 12" - Hip-Hop - BOOM BOOM You won't notice much difference from 2x 12"s and one good 12". Amp the fronts, amp the sub. Disconnect the rears [physically or through HU]. Spend as much as you can on the fronts, then save up for rears if need be. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
international 0 Report post Posted June 6, 2007 The DEH2950mp is a pretty base level head unit, only has 1 RCA out so there'll be no control over the sub volume from the h/u. $220 for the h/u from what I can see on TM Amp is $230 (car stereo specialists) for 380rms - quite a good price I'd go 1 good sub over 2 average ones. The box for 2 subs is more $$ as well so you're better off just having one decent 12". Amp kit can be around $80. Install - guessing $200 So it looks like an OK price ... nothing fantastic but you're not getting ripped. If you haven't already, go to Car Stereo Specialists, 153 Wairau (ph444-1105) and have a chat to them. They do some great specials and give good advice. Good fella that Blackrazor (aka BR aka Dan) but is no longer in the car audio scene. There's another rule that relates specifically to Pioneer headunits. Never never never connect or disconnect RCA cables unless the head unit is switched off and the amplifier is earthed. There's a fuseable link in the headunit RCA earth track that blows. Everything will still work but you end up with hideous alternator whine and CD tracking noises. haha...thanks mate...totally taken onboard...just beginning my first steps into audio modifications...just not sure what I would step into...with two 12"...So its always better to get a good single sub than two average subs...I guess that sounds more logical anyways... As for a head deck...what brand or model should I be looking at...totally noob at this...I admit...I do like Pioneer though...just need something not too shabby...with MP3 playback... Once again...greatly appreciate your advice~ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
international 0 Report post Posted June 6, 2007 1g is a very beginners budget, yet to a beginner, it is all you need. You can quite quickly blow $1k on a HU and front speakers, but if you get a deal like this one, it'll be hard to beat, but easy to change things around, as noted above with 1 sub instead of two. Dependant on the music you listen to, should tell you what sub you need. 10" - Rock, House - Punching music 12" - Hip-Hop - BOOM BOOM You won't notice much difference from 2x 12"s and one good 12". Amp the fronts, amp the sub. Disconnect the rears [physically or through HU]. Spend as much as you can on the fronts, then save up for rears if need be. Interesting information there about different size of subs to suit different gene of music...I gotta say...I listen to house...pratically only house...but I want the BOOM BOOM...so...what to opt for? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jpp 0 Report post Posted June 6, 2007 Interesting information there about different size of subs to suit different gene of music...I gotta say...I listen to house...pratically only house...but I want the BOOM BOOM...so...what to opt for? House/Dance is quite punchy. Porting any box makes it less responsive yet louder. So I'd do that, but get some pro advice from someone with good experience, I'm only talking from what I've been told from Paul Mooney, Driving Sound and Parallel [and icemag] and from my personal audio and a mates. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
international 0 Report post Posted June 6, 2007 House/Dance is quite punchy. Porting any box makes it less responsive yet louder. So I'd do that, but get some pro advice from someone with good experience, I'm only talking from what I've been told from Paul Mooney, Driving Sound and Parallel [and icemag] and from my personal audio and a mates. sorry what is porting? bigger box = more boom? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rogan 1 Report post Posted June 7, 2007 The general rule is that a small sub (8"or 10") will sound the tightest, a a large sub (15") will go the lowest, and a 12 will be somewhere in between, but then some brands' 15inch some can sound tighter than other brands' 10inch. So although it's a good general rule, don't assume that brand A 12 will be better for what you want than brand B 10. Porting is essentially venting your sub box with a tube of of a certain diameter and length to tune the sub box to a certain frequency. This will increase the bass output at the tuned frequency but can have impact on the quality of the sound. Very generally ported boxes will be louder and boomier than a sealed box but the sealed box will put out better sound quality. Note this is very general and not always true. Ported boxes take up alot more space so consider your boot needs. A ported box for a 12" sub will usually be in excess of 1.5 - 2.0ft3 whereas a sealed box for the same sub will be around 1.0 - 1.3 ft3. Also note that some subs are designed for sealed, some for ported and some will run well in either. Don't port a sub that's intended for a sealed box application. My advice would be to go down to Car Stereo Specialist, take along your own CDs and have a listen to what they've got. If there's not enough product there then head over to places like Paul Moneys in Mt Eden. Don't buy on the spot, have a listen, see what deal they can offer you (Paul Moneys probably won't include installation) and have a good nosey around. With headunits, you can't go too far wrong with known brands, avoid the "for you" and the like trademe stuff cos it's garbage in a pretty box. Remember, you can't polish a turd but you can chrome it. This applies to car stereo as well, the blingiest product is not usually the best stuff to buy. If you want street bass (SPL - boom boom that you can hear from three blocks away) then go ported; note a ported box will be slightly costlier to build - more MDF, extra cost for port and bigger box so will need more carpet to cover it. Got erectile dysfunction, go for SPL. For best quality (SQ) on a tight budget you want sealed but you'll still have plenty of volume - you might only be heard from 1.5 blocks away. Just off the top of my head this is what I'd look at. Sub: Alpine type R - either 10 or 12"depending on budget, Can be run in either ported or sealed boxes. Remember that your sub needs to suit your amp. Some amps make the most power at 2ohms and some at 4ohms. You need a sub that can be wired to the correct ohm load for your amplifier. Amp: the Pioneer one you're looking at - looks good $$ per watt rms Headunit: Whatever branded make/model you can get with the rest of your budget that has mp3 compatability and a subwoofer RCA out. Preferably 3 RCA outs for future system expansion. Don't bother amping the fronts yet and don't bother disconnecting the rears, Just leave the fronts and rears playing off the headunit internal amp. Remember, only look at power ratings in watts RMS. Max and Peak power are marketing BS and should be treated with complete contempt. Don't get too hung up on specifications. Some brands rate their products in different ways to others so comparing something like subwoofer efficiency can be difficult and misleading. One way to tell how loud a sub can go is to look at the sD and the Xmax. sD is the effective surface area of the speaker cone and Xmax is the distance it can move before hitting the mechanical limits. Multiply these two together and you get the volume of air that a sub can move. Obviously the more air it can move, the louder it can go. My main advice tho is to get professional help, have a shop around and use your ears to determine what's best for you in your budget. Parrallel importers can be cheaper but beware that they don't really give a damn about you after they've lightened your wallet. There's been a few warranty issues with Parrallel imported product as they send the stuff back to China or whereever to get fixed. As long as you don't get addicted to car audio, you should be OK. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ED1RTY 2 Report post Posted June 7, 2007 There's another rule that relates specifically to Pioneer headunits. Never never never connect or disconnect RCA cables unless the head unit is switched off and the amplifier is earthed. There's a fuseable link in the headunit RCA earth track that blows. Everything will still work but you end up with hideous alternator whine and CD tracking noises. I did not know this. Thank you - This helps me Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rogan 1 Report post Posted June 7, 2007 (edited) Easy way to check if the fuseable link is blown is to run a wire from the outer shield of one of the RCAs (NOTE NOT THE INNER PIN - THAT'S THE RCA POSITIVE AND YOU'LL DO BIG DAMAGE) to the headunit chassis or the h/u earth. This effectively bypasses the fuseable link and if it sorts out alternator whine then you know what the problem is. Monaco Corp (NZ Pioneer distributors) technicians replace the fuse with a piece of wire if they go wrong. Not sure on cost but I got mine done under warranty. Apologies for the Off Topic international Edited June 7, 2007 by rogan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
international 0 Report post Posted June 7, 2007 Easy way to check if the fuseable link is blown is to run a wire from the outer shield of one of the RCAs (NOTE NOT THE INNER PIN - THAT'S THE RCA POSITIVE AND YOU'LL DO BIG DAMAGE) to the headunit chassis or the h/u earth. This effectively bypasses the fuseable link and if it sorts out alternator whine then you know what the problem is. Monaco Corp (NZ Pioneer distributors) technicians replace the fuse with a piece of wire if they go wrong. Not sure on cost but I got mine done under warranty. Apologies for the Off Topic international All good bro...we all learn right? Rogan...you be the man...hahaha...holy mack that was some wicked advice... So its best to also have the installation done by professional? Would I need a cap? 318i doesnt have big battery... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rogan 1 Report post Posted June 7, 2007 IMO a cap is a complete waste of money. It's a bandaid for bigger problems. Try running with the OE battery and if there's problems, upgrade the battery first. Exide orbitals can be had for around $250 so there's a battery upgrade for the price of a cap. In the wife's E30 I've got a standard battery, flash h/u running a pair of components and rear coaxials, then a 400rms amp running a 10"Soundstream exact. Never had a problem with flat battery / dimming lights etc. Been like that for about 3 years although the wife doesn't give it death. I'm running 5 amps in my next project - somewhere around 2500rms and will just be running a two battery set up with one battery dedicated to the stereo. Will probably fit an extra alternator or upgrade the existing one if I can't fit one on the engine. I do SQ so I won't be using anywhere near the power the amps are capable of but should be more than sweet with a single grunty battery and decent alternator. If you're competent at wiring or have a rough clue what you're doing and know your way around a multitester then I'd have a go yourself. If you've got no clue then get it done pro. Wiring a headunit can be tricky, but wiring an amp is real easy - as pair of RCA from the h/u, remote on cable from the h/u (hardest part is running the cables through the car). -ve from amp to chassis, power from battery to amp with a fuse near the battery, then speaker cables from amp to sub. All very easy but if you don't have the tools (crimp, soldering iron) then I'd get it done pro; see if you can work the installation cost into the overall price Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
