TDP 0 Report post Posted November 25, 2007 Has anyone ever successfully replaced the rear crank seal on their post f/l M20b25? If so, how? Or, more specifically, how in the name of all that is holy did you manage to extract the old seal from its housing? I have tried gentle persuasion and tactfully applied lubricants. I have tried targeted applications of calibrated force. I have tried entirely unreasonable violence with whatever blunt object fell to hand. I have tried every single tongue position acheivable by the human physique. I have erected a small altar and prayed to the merciless, blackhanded gods. I have sacrificed all manner of livestock and promised the soul of my firstborn to any deity willing to assist me with this but still the bloody thing will. not. budge. Am I missing something really simple? Is there a technique which my, almost willfully unhelpful, Haynes manual has 'forgotten' to mention? Do I need a small, low yeild nuclear weapon? Any help/suggestions pathetically gratefully received. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted November 25, 2007 To do it properly...you need to drop the sump and take the rear seal housing off and do it on the bench. Dont use a sump gasket on reassembly...most are cork & crack between the bolt holes. Clean with white spirits and use grey Eurothane sealant ( not silicone ) Cheers Glenn Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gus 5 Report post Posted November 25, 2007 i didnt need to take the sump off, if i remember right, just take the seal carrier off by unbolting and using a screwdriver on the tabs then just use a screwdriver and a hammer to tap it off (CAREFULLY! Do not scratch the seal housing, its easy to) put the new seal in, making sure the lip is facing inside (have done it backwards before haha) and reseal including a good gasket sealant failing that, use a BIG hammer Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted November 25, 2007 i didnt need to take the sump off, if i remember right, just take the seal carrier off by unbolting and using a screwdriver on the tabs then just use a screwdriver and a hammer to tap it off (CAREFULLY! Do not scratch the seal housing, its easy to) put the new seal in, making sure the lip is facing inside (have done it backwards before haha) and reseal including a good gasket sealant failing that, use a BIG hammer Yes you can do it like that too But if it leaks....its all got to come out again I said a very strange word here......."PROPERLY" Cheers Glenn Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TDP 0 Report post Posted November 25, 2007 Cheers guys. The engine is out of the car and the sump is dropped so I was able to remove the carrier and trap it in a bench vice before assaulting it. It (the seal) came out in the end. It required some precision hack-sawing and laser guided brutality before it yeilded though. I've mounted the battered remains on a pole on the outskirts of the garage as a warning to any other seal who would be foolish enough to risk my wrath. Glenn, I've got a new sump gasket and I'll be using some of that Holt's gasket sealant on reassembly. Is that going to do a god enough job or should I be looking for the grey urethane? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted November 25, 2007 Dont use the cork gasket. Use the Urethane. Make sure its spotlessly clean...use white spirits Smear both surfaces and then run a bead on both sides of the bolt holes. Nip the sump bolts...leave for half an hour..then tighten You could actualy take all the bolts out for eva after 24 hrs... It wont leak Panelbeating Supplies sell the Eurothane we use Ring me if you need some..or ring them Cheers Glenn Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TDP 0 Report post Posted November 25, 2007 Dont use the cork gasket. Use the Urethane. Make sure its spotlessly clean...use white spirits Smear both surfaces and then run a bead on both sides of the bolt holes. Nip the sump bolts...leave for half an hour..then tighten Will do. Thanks for the advice. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bravo 34 Report post Posted November 25, 2007 This is the best thread we've had on here for ages. Inforamtive, entertaining, and until now free of spam. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tcbaurpower 5 Report post Posted May 16, 2008 Dont use the cork gasket. Use the Urethane. Make sure its spotlessly clean...use white spirits Smear both surfaces and then run a bead on both sides of the bolt holes. Nip the sump bolts...leave for half an hour..then tighten You could actualy take all the bolts out for eva after 24 hrs... It wont leak Panelbeating Supplies sell the Eurothane we use Ring me if you need some..or ring them Cheers Glenn Hello Glen, You have mentioned this before but what brand is it? Would you suggest using it for other gaskets as well? Cheers. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted May 16, 2008 Hello Glen, You have mentioned this before but what brand is it? Would you suggest using it for other gaskets as well? Cheers. No just the sump. Its available from Panel Beating supplies Ltd in Auckland. I'm not at work now but I can give you the info if you ring me on Monday at work Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
