Mike 1 Report post Posted February 11, 2008 16 mm is not huge really you are aware that everything else being equal a 16mm bar is over 3 times stiffer than a 12mm bar (is that what e30's run)? it might not be that large compared to other brands out there but should still be significantly stiffer. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gus 5 Report post Posted February 11, 2008 didn't realise that much, but the MS bar is 14.5mm...most aftermarket sways seem to be around 19mm?? (the bigger ones ST/IE at least) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
will 169 Report post Posted February 11, 2008 Riley, if you use eccentric bushes for you rear suspension to adjust your camber, it will change the toe at the same time. I would suggest you use a kit (as Mike suggests) that allows camber and toe to be adjusted independantly. I discovered this when I was working at getting rid of the major negative camber I had in my vert after fitting lowering springs, so compensated what I was doing to keep the toe right and bring the negative camber to an acceptable amount. Will Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted February 11, 2008 riley- the IE subframe camber and toe kits are a much better solution than the adjustable bushes. as you change the camber the toe will change too, quite tricky to setup right and can slip out of adjustment easily from what i've heard. I take it IE= Ireland Engineering ?? is it their kits that slip out of adjustment ?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike 1 Report post Posted February 11, 2008 sorry, worded badly- its the adjustable bushings that can slip out. my IE ones have been fine. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted February 11, 2008 sorry, worded badly- its the adjustable bushings that can slip out. my IE ones have been fine. Thanks, cause I'll probably need them as well on the project car Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hybrid 1043 Report post Posted February 11, 2008 The sway bar difference between the m3 and normal 325i / m-sport is the strut. Below is two different photos showing the sway bar link mount points on the strut. We are running the standard thicker 325i sway bars with e30 m3 struts with mount points for this reason.... best of both worlds I guess. Also allows us to run m3 specific suspension mods and 5 lug. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
drifty325i 0 Report post Posted February 11, 2008 Heres some pics of the goodies Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
drifty325i 0 Report post Posted February 12, 2008 Riley, if you use eccentric bushes for you rear suspension to adjust your camber, it will change the toe at the same time. I would suggest you use a kit (as Mike suggests) that allows camber and toe to be adjusted independantly. I discovered this when I was working at getting rid of the major negative camber I had in my vert after fitting lowering springs, so compensated what I was doing to keep the toe right and bring the negative camber to an acceptable amount. Will Im going to go with a proper camber and toe kit like Mike suggests, i think thats my problem. Any idear on costs for theses kits? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
drifty325i 0 Report post Posted February 12, 2008 sorry, worded badly- its the adjustable bushings that can slip out. my IE ones have been fine. As ive already got the adjustable bushings can i still use them with the camber and toe kit as well? cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
drifty325i 0 Report post Posted February 12, 2008 Nice pics there Hybrid, cheers for posting that up Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
will 169 Report post Posted February 12, 2008 Im going to go with a proper camber and toe kit like Mike suggests, i think thats my problem. Any idear on costs for theses kits? No idea, I did mine myself, think Chris (McLovin') bought one of these kits..? Will Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike 1 Report post Posted February 12, 2008 got to bmw2002.com to find the things. but both the camber and toe kit. They should be different. The camber sits inboard and has more adjustment. Riley, I wouldn't use the eccentric bushes as well. As well as increasing the chance of slipping they probably wont even fit. Lastly, people shouldn't be so worried about excess camber. Its incorrect toe that really causes excess wear. (excessive camber certainly doesn't help things though.) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
drifty325i 0 Report post Posted February 12, 2008 Its not that im to worried about the camber, i actually kind of like the look haha, its just i really need all of my rear tires on the ground now with the extra power. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted February 12, 2008 Its not that im to worried about the camber, i actually kind of like the look haha, its just i really need all of my rear tires on the ground now with the extra power. Add some weight...do a lead mould underneath the rear seat, forward of the axle . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hybrid 1043 Report post Posted February 12, 2008 or get ready to see why we need 9.5 inch rears Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike 1 Report post Posted February 12, 2008 (edited) Its not that im to worried about the camber, i actually kind of like the look haha, its just i really need all of my rear tires on the ground now with the extra power. hmmm, time for Mcoupe arms and 5 lug? chuck some filthy wide Type1's on there. Here what the kit involves: (Notice the larger washers for the extra camber adjustment, they do not have the same "key" for the washers but still seem to turn ok) Getting that subframe out is a PITA so I'd do it once and do it right with the camber, toe, and whatever else needs doing. Edited February 12, 2008 by Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
