Service every 10,000km? Really?

[Mark 178]

I've owned my car now for 7 months. In that time I've put almost 5000 km's on it. I still have three green lights up on my service indicator.

With previous cars I've owned I've done oil changes every 6 months or 5k. So, question is; should I do an oil/filter change between services or just wait until the inspection light comes on?

And also, what oil do you recommend?

[kiwi535 538]

i wait for the light its about 12000 k for me,but my car gets a good run each day.I ussually use castrol synthetic( cheapish from dealer with cc discount).I think there is an override for time,check owners manual

Edited January 30, 2008 by kiwi535

[mr E34 11]

i wait for the light its about 12000 k for me,but my car gets a good run each day.I ussually use castrol synthetic( cheapish from dealer with cc discount).I think there is an override for time,check owners manual

Yeah 10-12000k's seems about normal.

Are you sure synthetic is o.k. for our older M30??? BMW usually put in Magnatec or Ersnt at Bavarian uses a good Motul oil.

[mr E34 11]

I've owned my car now for 7 months. In that time I've put almost 5000 km's on it. I still have three green lights up on my service indicator.

With previous cars I've owned I've done oil changes every 6 months or 5k. So, question is; should I do an oil/filter change between services or just wait until the inspection light comes on?

And also, what oil do you recommend?

With regards to oil for your engine, phone your local BMW dealer to find out what they use.

[kiwi535 538]

its what shelleys put in .....but i have,nt been using it lately,and strangely oil consumption seems to have gone up...

[mr E34 11]

its what shelleys put in .....but i have,nt been using it lately,and strangely oil consumption seems to have gone up...

I was told NOT to put in THIN synthetics.Bavarian put in my 535is a good Motul dinosaur oil, uses no oil between services.(Team Mc Millan BMW use magnatec for older)

A lot guys with older 300zx cars stuffed the top ends using thin synthetics, they are too thin for older engines with wider tolerances etc.

They use a diff grade in the daughters 318is as well.

Edited January 30, 2008 by mr E34

[will 169]

When I used to race motorbikes (track, enduro and MX), we would only use full synthetic on a newly built motor, using it on an older motor that had already been broken in on standard oil would cause early failure- guaranteed!

In the same vein, using non-synthetic oil in a new motor would give it a far shorter lifespan than a motor on full synthetic. We used to replace piston rings after every hard race, and the visible difference in wear between a motor using full synthetic and one using standard oil was quite obvious.

Will

[kiwi535 538]

I was told NOT to put in THIN synthetics.Bavarian put in my 535is a good Motul dinosaur oil, uses no oil between services.(Team Mc Millan BMW use magnatec for older)

A lot guys with older 300zx cars stuffed the top ends using thin synthetics, they are too thin for older engines with wider tolerances etc.

They use a diff grade in the daughters 318is as well.

i have done the best part of 100.000 k using castrol synthetic.....i like the fact that the 5w pumps very quickly form cold....what is the problem?dont forget the viscosity at the other end is 30....what should i check ?I use a little bit, i have some leaks at the timing cover.I ussually have to top up prt way through the full SI usually the first decent road trip .

[will 169]

The issue is not with 'thin' synthetics, it is what condition the motor is in when switching to synthetics after using mineral oils. Engines run in on standard mineral oils tend to develop bigger tolerances and switching to a full synthetic with a lower viscosity rating can have a negative effect on wear.

You will find that manufacturers specify a particular range of suitable oils and recommend that you stick to the chosen one, for this reason. The motor is machined at assembly time to work with a particular range of grades of oil eg 15w40 so switching to one with a lower bottom end eg 5w40, can result in accelerated wear.

Just remember that the greatest wear in a motor occurs on startup, so changing to an oil with a 5 viscosity rating after the engine has run itself in on an 'older' oil of 15 viscosity can not be good for the motor.

I have tended to use semi-synthetic oils, not full synthetic, on an older motor and made sure that the rating of the oil is no lower than 15w40. I have quite a fleet of older e30's which I drive very hard and have not had problems with failures to date.(touches wood... )

On a newly rebuilt motor I would not hesitate to use full synthetic. These oils have new technology which 'stick' to metal parts ensuring on a coating of oil on metal parts during the critical startup period, and tend not to break down as quickly as mineral oils do over time, and are much better at handling high temperatures.

Will

Edited January 31, 2008 by will

[kiwi535 538]

my car had 147 000 ks when i got it,and i switched then...what do you think I should do now???

[*Glenn* 854]

The issue is not with 'thin' synthetics, it is what condition the motor is in when switching to synthetics after using mineral oils. Engines run in on standard mineral oils tend to develop bigger tolerances and switching to a full synthetic with a lower viscosity rating can have a negative effect on wear.

You will find that manufacturers specify a particular range of suitable oils and recommend that you stick to the chosen one, for this reason. The motor is machined at assembly time to work with a particular range of grades of oil eg 15w40 so switching to one with a lower bottom end eg 5w40, can result in accelerated wear.

Just remember that the greatest wear in a motor occurs on startup, so changing to an oil with a 5 viscosity rating after the engine has run itself in on an 'older' oil of 15 viscosity can not be good for the motor.

I have tended to use semi-synthetic oils, not full synthetic, on an older motor and made sure that the rating of the oil is no lower than 15w40. I have quite a fleet of older e30's which I drive very hard and have not had problems with failures to date.(touches wood... )

On a newly rebuilt motor I would not hesitate to use full synthetic. These oils have new technology which 'stick' to metal parts ensuring on a coating of oil on metal parts during the critical startup period, and tend not to break down as quickly as mineral oils do over time, and are much better at handling high temperatures.

Will

+1 Totally agree with you there Will

[kiwiland 3]

I am running a 2001 E39 530 with an indicated mileage of 47,000k. For the last 2 years I have only averaged 4,500k per year being a mixture of 20 - 150k. (use an elderly Lancer for day to day running)

Question is :- how often do I need to get it serviced

[*Glenn* 854]

I am running a 2001 E39 530 with an indicated mileage of 47,000k. For the last 2 years I have only averaged 4,500k per year being a mixture of 20 - 150k. (use an elderly Lancer for day to day running)

Question is :- how often do I need to get it serviced

When the digital SI board tells you, or I would recommend yearly if you dont do much mileage