ldnz 0 Report post Posted January 30, 2008 Hi all, After aquaplaning my old Kwaka and deciding the tarmac was a much more comfortable place to sit, I found myself in need of long distance transport and a 1992/3 e36 318IS manual in pretty good nick came up on offer. Its done a lot of k's (approaching 280,000), has only had one owner (my grandparents) and consequently has never been driven in anger, therefore all running quite smoothly. Its a lovely car to drive, handles the parapara's nicely (I regularly travel Auckland to Wanganui - anyone wanting to car pool that direction give me a pm!) and all in all i'm quite happy with it. Its just decided it wants an oil change, and I prefer to do that sort of thing myself. Wheres the best place to get filters and so on? Do Repco/supercheap stock appropriate parts? What quality/brands of oils are worth looking at? Forgive me, i'm only familiar with bike stuff! Oh just briefly about me - I'm a 21 year old Navy officer, returning to uni to complete my BEng. Love sailing, love bikes, and just starting to love BMW's. Enjoy windy road driving and have no time for unnecessary speed/poor cornering WRX's slowing me down. Grew up in a 633CSi which I absolutely love and hope to own one day! Anyway look forward to meeting you all some time. Ben Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
international 0 Report post Posted January 30, 2008 Hi all, After aquaplaning my old Kwaka and deciding the tarmac was a much more comfortable place to sit, I found myself in need of long distance transport and a 1992/3 e36 318IS manual in pretty good nick came up on offer. Its done a lot of k's (approaching 280,000), has only had one owner (my grandparents) and consequently has never been driven in anger, therefore all running quite smoothly. Its a lovely car to drive, handles the parapara's nicely (I regularly travel Auckland to Wanganui - anyone wanting to car pool that direction give me a pm!) and all in all i'm quite happy with it. Its just decided it wants an oil change, and I prefer to do that sort of thing myself. Wheres the best place to get filters and so on? Do Repco/supercheap stock appropriate parts? What quality/brands of oils are worth looking at? Forgive me, i'm only familiar with bike stuff! Oh just briefly about me - I'm a 21 year old Navy officer, returning to uni to complete my BEng. Love sailing, love bikes, and just starting to love BMW's. Enjoy windy road driving and have no time for unnecessary speed/poor cornering WRX's slowing me down. Grew up in a 633CSi which I absolutely love and hope to own one day! Anyway look forward to meeting you all some time. Ben Nice car mate, welcome to BS. 318is are awesome and so are the old school 6 series. If you are looking to change the oil yourself, I had no chance in getting the oil filter from Repco in Wairau but managed to find them at SuperCheap but purely based on their stock. I got FRAM filters which seems to be quite well and used Castrol GTX Protec 15-40 since the engine has done 80,000Km. You do need a long wrench to get a good good fulcrum. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cainchapman 0 Report post Posted January 30, 2008 Welcome. Enjoy yourself. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
3series 0 Report post Posted January 30, 2008 (edited) save the hassle and just get an oil filter from BMW .. seriously. Wont cost over the top.. my last cost $11.00 as they were on special that month, so cheap I bought 3. Probably end up setting you back about $20. Edited January 30, 2008 by bmw3 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ldnz 0 Report post Posted January 30, 2008 Thanks guys. Yeah I need to get all the toys for this service, axle stands and everything, unless its possible to get at the sump plug without jacking? Haven't had a good look under there yet. I've also read that shorting pin 7 to 19/ground for a few seconds on the diagnostic connector resets the oil service. Anybody use this technique, or does anyone have the proper tool and willing to reset for beer? BTW, whens the next Speights meet and greet? Is it the 14th? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ldnz 0 Report post Posted January 30, 2008 save the hassle and just get an oil filter from BMW .. seriously. Wont cost over the top.. my last cost $11.00 as they were on special that month, so cheap I bought 3. Probably end up setting you back about $20. I'm not familiar with the good dealers around - Jerry Clayton BMW is up the road and scared the hell out of me with a threat for $250 for the oil change, but they sell filters at a reasonable cost? Or is there a particularly good shop for parts? (ideally on the north shore!). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Braeden320 0 Report post Posted January 30, 2008 Welcome along post up pics Filters for the e36 are cheap at the dealers - get it from them and you no its right! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gus 5 Report post Posted January 30, 2008 Welcome, you sound good so far. Keep it up! As for oil change, get a filter from Jerry Claytons Silverfield, they arent much more than repco and at least you know the quality is good. any decent oil is fine...magnatec is pretty popular due to the price...I like Pennzoil's too, but really as long as it is changed regularly it probably doesnt matter! Enjoy the site Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kiwi535 538 Report post Posted January 30, 2008 250 would have included several litres of castrol synthetic....you might be able to reach the sump plug without jacking but you will also need a pretty flat "dish",please recycle the oil. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ldnz 0 Report post Posted January 30, 2008 250 would have included several litres of castrol synthetic....you might be able to reach the sump plug without jacking but you will also need a pretty flat "dish",please recycle the oil. Yeah well a set of axle stands is money, and being a very underpaid sailor thats in quite short supply. I'll quite happily skimp on tools to make the job easier, so that I don't have to cheap out on the oil/filter. Sounds good getting oem parts, I like the idea of that. With the high k's this little baby is done I want to do everything possible to keep her running smooth! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kiwi535 538 Report post Posted January 30, 2008 it will do a lot more ks too if you look after it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew 30 Report post Posted January 30, 2008 Welcome Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Apex 693 Report post Posted January 30, 2008 Welcome to BS! Just find a big kerb and park her on it, easy aces to the sump! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
greenday-rulz21 6 Report post Posted January 30, 2008 (edited) I've also read that shorting pin 7 to 19/ground for a few seconds on the diagnostic connector resets the oil service. Anybody use this technique, or does anyone have the proper tool and willing to reset for beer?Pin 7 and 19 for four seconds. Don't do it any longer because it might reset the Inspection I/II Service light.Welcome! btw Edited January 30, 2008 by Nick021 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Yuen 16 Report post Posted January 31, 2008 Welcome Ben! I switched from Pennzoil to Castrol R Synthetic 5W30 (now EDGE 5W-30) for my E36 320i. Filter will cost ~$20 at the dealer. You can see the pricing in Team McMillan's online shop. Pricing should be similar at Jerry Clayton. I would recommend you go genuine BMW, why save a few dollars (if any) buying some aftermarket filter? The BMW filter will also come with a new O-ring and rubber gasket for the oil filter housing cover (at least, that was the case for my 6 cylinder 320, I don't know if the 4 cylinder is any different). You'll need to jack up the car to get to the sump plug. The pin trick should work fine, but if you don't succeed, I have the Peake reset tool. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Foohey 0 Report post Posted January 31, 2008 Draper, resets it all if you not too keen doing it the other way http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-138226037.htm Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ldnz 0 Report post Posted January 31, 2008 Draper, resets it all if you not too keen doing it the other way http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-138226037.htm Wow thanks for all the advice. Went and saw Jerry Clayton today, new filter $20, grabbed some castrol magnatec from supercheap(which is apparently what the cars been running on for a while). Jacked one side up, pulled the plug and lowered it back down again to drain it all. Shorted pins 7-19 for about 5 seconds and was away laughing. Absolutely no drama and not too pricy at all. Was also very pleased to see that original rear shocks are only $170 a piece (seems cheap to me?) from Jerry Clayton. My ones feel fine as far as bouncing up and down on them goes, but the back end of my car seems to sit lower than the front. Will whop up a photo and ask your opinions some time! Cheers all. Ben Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
steve R 0 Report post Posted January 31, 2008 Wow thanks for all the advice. Went and saw Jerry Clayton today, new filter $20, grabbed some castrol magnatec from supercheap(which is apparently what the cars been running on for a while). Jacked one side up, pulled the plug and lowered it back down again to drain it all. Shorted pins 7-19 for about 5 seconds and was away laughing. Absolutely no drama and not too pricy at all. Was also very pleased to see that original rear shocks are only $170 a piece (seems cheap to me?) from Jerry Clayton. My ones feel fine as far as bouncing up and down on them goes, but the back end of my car seems to sit lower than the front. Will whop up a photo and ask your opinions some time! Cheers all. Ben the backs are just shocks, the front is a full strut, and will cost twice as much as the back Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ldnz 0 Report post Posted January 31, 2008 the backs are just shocks, the front is a full strut, and will cost twice as much as the back Well thats depressing, but i'm not surprised. Not sure that there are any problems with suspension, just nice to know parts aren't too horrendous. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
