HERE WE GO.........

[pureboiracer 0]

just got my 325i e30 yesterday. it was all good. checked everything out. ran sweet. and then today. was going fine. got to my friends place. turned it off. all good. started it up again when i left.... put it into gear and took off and for some reason something didnt feel right.

then. about 2 miniutes later i changed gear and the clutch pedal starts vibrating when you push it.

it seems to me like that is a signal that the clutch is stuffed.

can someone tell me how easy it is too do the clutch on my driveway? i have done a few gearboxes n stuff so i know how it works. but i heard that the top bolts for the belhousing are a mission to get too. can anyone give me some advise or info?

cheers

oli

[Hartage 0]

Top bolts are a Shite.

Can be done but really it is easier to drop the lot out.

Probably need the Torx keys, as most 325i's that i have had use them.

Talk to Brian or PM me and i will give you my number.

Ian

just got my 325i e30 yesterday. it was all good. checked everything out. ran sweet. and then today. was going fine. got to my friends place. turned it off. all good. started it up again when i left.... put it into gear and took off and for some reason something didnt feel right.

then. about 2 miniutes later i changed gear and the clutch pedal starts vibrating when you push it.

it seems to me like that is a signal that the clutch is stuffed.

can someone tell me how easy it is too do the clutch on my driveway? i have done a few gearboxes n stuff so i know how it works. but i heard that the top bolts for the belhousing are a mission to get too. can anyone give me some advise or info?

cheers

oli

[*Glenn* 854]

Its hard doing it that way.. a hoist is much easier

However, this will help

Before you start this, make sure your front engine mounts are not broken. And you will have to remove the exhaust to allow the engine to drop sufficiently.

Put the car up on 4 axles stands ( make sure its safe ) and the axle stands are on the chassis rails. Take out the front cross member bolts one at a time, then put them back 3 or 4 complete turns, this will allow the motor and front cross member to drop down to give you more clearance. When you remove the rear gearbox cross member the box will hang down sufficiently to get to the top torx bolts. We use a 800mm 3/8 extension, universal & torx socket ( these must be good quality ) and you must make sure the socket fits correctly or you will strip the head on the torx bolt. These bolts are usually very tight and you might have to use a 3/8 to 1/2 inch adaptor with a 1/2 inch ratchet or power bar.

When refitting the gearbox you will need to raise the front of the motor to get the box in without bending the clutch centre plate ( getting out is easy because you have the weight of the box on the back of the motor ) Its best to use a guard mounted, adjustable, engine support bracket, but if you cant get the use of one, carefully jack up the front of the motor with a piece of wood with a jack. Be carefull not to jack to high or you will lift the car off the axle stands. And make sure the fan and fan shroud dont get damaged and your radiator hoses dont get stretched too much. To be on the safe side...take them off.

As a safety precaution, while working on the car, put blocks of wood under all the wheels and keep the handbrake on

you will need to release the handbrake to undo the driveshaft, but when you start removing the box, make sure its on and the blocks of wood are under the wheels.......we dont want a squashed forum member.....just take your time and be careful. Also disconnect your battery.

Hope this helps

Cheers

Glenn

Edited February 6, 2008 by botanymotorworx

[bravo 35]

When you jack/lift the motor, first loosen the top nuts on the engine mounts. This will let the motor tilt and lift more. Since you are removing the exhaust I find it easier to quickly whip off all the heat shields and remove the driveshaft entirely. Gives you much more room when doing it on you back on the ground. Not so necessary with the luxury of a hoist and gearbox stand.

[tcbaurpower 5]

Hello,

I have just removed the gearbox in my 325i and those bolts! i didnt strip them which is lucky because it had already been removed before and they put the same bolts back. I will get new ones this time, is this a good practice anyway? How much is it for a new set? I took the top bolts out last which didnt help, when putting it back in is there a better order?

Bravo had the right idea as well, remove the driveshaft. I removed the engine earth strap aswell.

Take out the front cross member bolts one at a time, then put them back 3 or 4 complete turns, this will allow the motor and front cross member to drop down to give you more clearance. When you remove the rear gearbox cross member the box will hang down sufficiently to get to the top torx bolts. We use a 800mm 3/8 extension, universal & torx socket ( these must be good quality ) and you must make sure the socket fits correctly or you will strip the head on the torx bolt. These bolts are usually very tight and you might have to use a 3/8 to 1/2 inch adaptor with a 1/2 inch ratchet or power bar.

When refitting the gearbox you will need to raise the front of the motor to get the box in without bending the clutch centre plate ( getting out is easy because you have the weight of the box on the back of the motor ) Its best to use a guard mounted, adjustable, engine support bracket, but if you cant get the use of one, carefully jack up the front of the motor with a piece of wood with a jack. Be carefull not to jack to high or you will lift the car off the axle stands. And make sure the fan and fan shroud dont get damaged and your radiator hoses dont get stretched too much. To be on the safe side...take them off.

The front cross member has just four bolts?

Cheers

Edited February 7, 2008 by tcbaurpower