E30 steering rack help, Wgtn

[tire 10]

My steering rack on my 1986 318i E30 failed a wof. I have a replacement from Ray @ hellBM.

I myself do not have the tools or experience to replace it and I would like to see if I can get some help through here before I bite the bullet and take it to the mechanics.

I have tried Hartage (Ian) but he is too busy.

Is there anyone around who could please give me a hand?

I also have replacement front shocks which need spring compressors in order to be replaced but I doubt anyone will have any.

Many thanks!

Max.

Edit: It is a power steering rack.

Edited May 1, 2008 by tire

[tire 10]

bump?

[Boost Junky 1]

Hey bro u can get spring compressors from supercheap for like $40. As far as the p/s goes I have a E30 Haynes User manual in PDF format with all u need to swap the steering rack over. But if you are not that mechanically abled etc its not really for a novice to do any suspension or steering work. Gotta make sure u do it all correct and safely else u will put urs/others lifes at risk.

Luke

[Cale 36]

Heres the Haynes 3- and 5-Series Repair Manual as mentioned above if you need.

[Boost Junky 1]

Oh shot quailboy i didnt have the link for it online haha. So yea there ya go tire...

[OLLIE 26]

with basic tools and the car up on axle stands you should be able to do this pretty easily. Don't forget to get a wheel alignment afterwards.

detach tierods from struts, loosen steering column, remove a couple of PS hoses and undo the 2 bolts that hold the rack to the cross member, then slide it forward and out.

Refer to the haynes manual posted above for more detail

tools needed:

hammer

17mm socket and wrench

17mm spanner

22mm spanner

flathead screwdriver

something like that

[Silver Fox 43]

You forgot a couple of 13's for the steering coupling, remove the bolt completely, or you can't pull the rack off, and maybe a 19 for one of the power steering connections? Don't forget a decent sized container for the power steering fluid, messy stuff. You should use new washers when the power steering connections are bolted back up, notorious for leaking.

[tire 10]

This is mint guys big thanks. When I have time tonight I will research the words I don't understand and d/l that manual.

Might be time to start buying some tools too.

Edit - tools*

Edited May 5, 2008 by tire

[tire 10]

Urgent Quick Question - How on earth do I detatch the tierods from the struts? I've undone the nut on top but I can't get the bolt to slide out of the hole. Can you explain in more detail this hammer and block of wood method?

TY

[3series 0]

vibration causes the joint to expand. Bash it hard, with a hammer while you're pressing down it will gradually come off. Keep downward pressure on. try and wedge the lever between something and keep downward pressure on the the tierod..

Edited May 11, 2008 by bmw3

[Mike 1]

Urgent Quick Question - How on earth do I detatch the tierods from the struts? I've undone the nut on top but I can't get the bolt to slide out of the hole. Can you explain in more detail this hammer and block of wood method?

TY

re-thread the nut on a couple of turns to protect the threads. you want to hit the side of the hole - the actual strut itself, not the tie-rod. use a lever to put some downward pressure on the rod and just whack the thing, I've never had this method fail me yet.

Does the new rack come with rack end or do you have to swap those out too? They can be a pain to swap, there are proper rack end removal tools but I did mine with a large plumbers wrench.

Edited May 11, 2008 by Mike

[tire 10]

Cheers guys I'll get back ouot there now.

Mike - Replacement (not new) rack comes with everything. Tie rods and steering rack. Cheers Ray for doing that, you could easily have just sent the rack and I'd be fcuked right now.

[tire 10]

Should I turn the wheel so that the hub on the side which i am working on is facing in our out or straight ahead or does it not matter?

[hotwire 352]

Should I turn the wheel so that the hub on the side which i am working on is facing in our out or straight ahead or does it not matter?

Doesn't matter where it faces but turn to face you so that you can get a good aim to release the joint -eg L/H side - have full left lock. Heavier the hammer the better (within reason)

[tire 10]

Mint I got them out. Had to hit it fail hard aye. Turned the top nut into a pankake.

Had a quick go at unscrewing bolts the p/s rack bracket but after being loosened they just kept turning without coming out. I need to somehow grip the top while unscrewing the bolt. its hard to get plyers up there though. Pathetic eh.

Its all fun though. Good learning. Can't wait to disect the old rack!

[Silver Fox 43]

17mm ring spanner will go up there easy.

[Mike 1]

Turned the top nut into a pankake.

Huh? the top nut shouldn't have been touched. doesn't matter now as you've got them out but for next time you hit the housing, not the nut or bolt. the nut is only on to protect the thread if you miss.

or do you just have shocking aim with a hammer?

I had to move my rack to get my manifold on and I'm pretty sure I got a spanner or socket on there easily enough.

[hotwire 352]

"Mint I got them out. Had to hit it fail hard aye. Turned the top nut into a pankake."

Sounds like you hit down on the tie rod end nut itself? If so - this is a definite no no, doesn't matter if you are replacing the whole thing but definitely NOT the way to do it.

As Mike said - Hit the side of the strut eye - NOT the tie rod itself. By impacting the strut -you are trying to "shock" the joint to seperate (while levering with downward pressure at the same time)

The nut is wound on loosely to save damage to the thread if you miscue & hit the rod.

[tire 10]

Yea I hit down on the tie rod end nut itself. After hitting the side of the strut eye. Then it came out. I'll know how to do it sweet as next time. I'm replacing everything anyway.

Mike - Yes my aim is sh*t. Once I was banging random nails into a fence and missed and hit my kneecap :S. I'm bad.

Mike - getting a socket onto the rack bracet nut isn't the difficult part as I have plenty of elevation with my stands. Its just getting up behind to grip the bolt and stop it from spinning round as I undo the nut (after having loosened it). But I haven't had a good go yet I'm sure i'll be sweet

Cheers for the help hotwire, mike, silver fox etc

[tire 10]

So the old rack is out. With the replcaement I have the steering shaft lined up to the steering column and it goes in a couple of mm but i cant get it all the way up. It doesn't slide up.

I have the column bit separated with a screwdriver in there is there anyway to get it split apart wider?

Bentley manual just says "installation is the reverse of removal" ...

Hints wanted.

Cheers

[tcbaurpower 5]

Hello,

It is a really tight fit, as you will have found taking it off, if you apply continuous pressure it should slowly slide on maybe some lube would make it easier.

Have fun.

[tire 10]

Had another crack today but it's not going up, I noticed that inside where the steering shaft goes into the column there is a ring (about 3mm up) of gnarls in the teeth. Is this normal? The "gnarls" do not look regular.

The bit I am talking about is circled below -

I shouldn't need to use a hammer should I?

[tire 10]

Bump please before I go back?

[tire 10]

Got it in. Now just need to tighten up all the bolts - is a torque wrench necessary or just do em all up good and tight? There are torque specs in the bentley manual (arrived from amazon Wednesday before last which was in half the time they quoted thanks amazon).

What bolts/washers/nuts do I actually need to replace? Manual says universal joint shaft self locking nuts, tie rod ends nuts, steering rack mounting bolts (surely not?), and washers for banjo bolts where fluid lines connect to the gear.

Thanks.

Edit - for a torque wrench I am looking at this, just waiting for a reply on drive size. Everything else on there is thrice that price. According to this thread jonnesway is an ok brand..

Edited June 2, 2008 by tastic

[Mike 1]

half the places you wont get a torque wrench anywhere near so just use common sense when tightening them. replace any nylock nuts with new ones, everything else should be right.