EDIRTY 1 Report post Posted May 11, 2008 I have recently replaced the entire cooling system on my e30 m20b25; waterpump, thermostat, radiator etc as an overheating heating problem caused my head to crack..... very expensive venture i am now having terrible difficulty bleeding the cooling system. it seems that initially on my first attempt the heater was left closed (silly female i kno!) but after my 2nd flush of the system (have had to flush the system a number of times as when the head cracked my cooling system was full of crap) i made sure i had the heaters on full and bled the system with the bleed valve open but the heaters still blow cold and i am sure i have some sort of airlock or could the heater valve be jammed closed??? any help would be appreciated Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mark 178 Report post Posted May 11, 2008 Sometimes bleeding all the air out takes a while.... park the car on a slight incline (front of car facing uphill) turn the heater on full, open the bleed screw and then hold the revs at around 2000rpm to get the coolant pumping. Keep checking for air bubbles every couple of minutes.... when you're convinced there are no more air bubbles leave the car running for another 5 minutes and then replace the bleed screw, top up the coolant and you're away! This worked for me (on an E36 mind you, but should be a similar process) Good luck! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pureboiracer 0 Report post Posted May 11, 2008 considering you cracked your head and filled your cooling system with sh** you may well hav blocked your heater core. take off the two hoses going to it and put a hosepipe in it and make sure it runs out just as fast as you put the water in. if thats all ok then follow ganetboys advise Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EDIRTY 1 Report post Posted May 12, 2008 Sometimes bleeding all the air out takes a while.... park the car on a slight incline (front of car facing uphill) turn the heater on full, open the bleed screw and then hold the revs at around 2000rpm to get the coolant pumping. Keep checking for air bubbles every couple of minutes.... when you're convinced there are no more air bubbles leave the car running for another 5 minutes and then replace the bleed screw, top up the coolant and you're away! This worked for me (on an E36 mind you, but should be a similar process) Good luck! Hey dude, thanks for your reply, really appreciate it. prob a silly question but should i hav the water reservoir/tank open or the lid on whilst bleeding? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mark 178 Report post Posted May 12, 2008 Hey dude, thanks for your reply, really appreciate it. prob a silly question but should i hav the water reservoir/tank open or the lid on whilst bleeding? Cap on... tight. You're just sucking more air in if you have it off.... Glad to be of help, let us know how you get on. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EDIRTY 1 Report post Posted May 15, 2008 Cap on... tight. You're just sucking more air in if you have it off.... Glad to be of help, let us know how you get on. Thanks for all your help guys, i've finally got it sorted! car is now running cool as Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
westy 614 Report post Posted May 16, 2008 Cool Torana! I used to have an LJ in the same colour. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
