QuickSilver 0 Report post Posted June 10, 2008 Hey everyone, I have a few questions about my IDLE which is after all this time is not perfect, my current idle control valve (the H wax filled one) is stuffed, I have a spare which seems in better condition, but I cant remember if the valve is supposed to fully open, or fully close when hot/cold, I have tested it, there is movement with the valve, but like I said, I don't know if its supposed to fully open or closed at any point, or just opens bigger or smaller. Can anybody clarify? Next is the option of swapping to the electronic system, I was reading up that this is easy enough and a good solution as every H valve in the world seems to be stuffed, but I was curious about this, the book I was reading mentions that you can just grab the lot off a motronic m20b20 and pull out the old, and replace with the new, and wire up the ICV to a 12+ ignition source. Has anyone done this? I was looking at an m20b25 (prefacelift) one of these and the connector plug (to the ICV) has 3 pins, does this mean I cant just connect it to a 12+? Are the b25 versions different to the b20? And also, is it different from FL vs P/FL? Any info always appreciated! Cheers, Alex. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ducatiss 1 Report post Posted June 10, 2008 (edited) I would have thought that the ICV would have needed to know the coolent temp. Just wiring it up to a 12 volt source wouldnt achieve this. As an L-Jet owner I could be well off track here though. I seem to remember testing my Idle valve by heating it in hot water and then observing what the valve was doing. I would be keen to hear what you end up doing as I might convert as well. Edited June 10, 2008 by ducatiss Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Venatus 2 Report post Posted June 10, 2008 Hey man, i was trying to find some crap on it for you, all I could find out was that apparently the earlier motronic ICV's only had two pins, whereas it was the later ones that had 3. Another later model thing that my car has haha... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lubed 55 Report post Posted June 10, 2008 You could always fix the original problem by fitting a idle valve that works correctly then set your base idle at running temp.Then set your mixture with a gas analizer, if no other faults are present such as air leaks it should run as sweet as it came out of the factory Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
QuickSilver 0 Report post Posted June 10, 2008 (edited) You could always fix the original problem by fitting a idle valve that works correctly then set your base idle at running temp.Then set your mixture with a gas analizer, if no other faults are present such as air leaks it should run as sweet as it came out of the factory Im aware what would fix my idle but I am currently fitting my THIRD idle control unit, and I know that the problem would be sorted by a fitting a good one and adjusting it properly, but im sorry I refuse to spend in excess of $350 on a NEW idle control unit that is out dated now and if there is a better option I will go with that, thanks for the info, all second hand units seem to have died years ago. Ducatiss - Yeah the later model it would seem does have a temp sensor but I think the motronic b20 is just plugged into a 12+, this seems like the dream fix for these stupid wax filled valves, I will look into it more and will let you know how/if it works, Bradd (Ven) - I had another read and it would seem it has to be one from the motronic b20s otherwise its different, will talk to Ray about getting one and trying it out. No one can confirm if the old style H valve has to open or close fully at any point or just partially? Thanks again, Alex. Edited June 10, 2008 by QuickSilver Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lubed 55 Report post Posted June 10, 2008 The valve is open when cold and closed when at operating temp.No offence intended but for the price of three second hand valves and possibly another electronic valve + fuel or courier to get the parts you may have been able to have trouble free motoring with a new wax valve from the start? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted June 10, 2008 The valve is open when cold and closed when at operating temp.No offence intended but for the price of three second hand valves and possibly another electronic valve + fuel or courier to get the parts you may have been able to have trouble free motoring with a new wax valve from the start? I totally agree with you too....just buy the new one.....job done BTW...the degree of opening is dependant on ambient temperature and closes as the engine warms up. As long as it has good water flow and the thermostat is working properly all should be fine. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
QuickSilver 0 Report post Posted June 10, 2008 (edited) The valve is open when cold and closed when at operating temp.No offence intended but for the price of three second hand valves and possibly another electronic valve + fuel or courier to get the parts you may have been able to have trouble free motoring with a new wax valve from the start? No offense taken, so far I have only bought one of the valves (on came ON the car, and another I picked up in a pack of parts), at a good cost, so far I have spent no where near the amount it would have cost for a new one, I have tested the one I am about to chuck into the car and it seems to be working, will put this in before I look into replacing with the electronic system, I appreciate all the help very much, cheers. Thanks Glenn, will put this valve in, in the next day or so, just checked my thermostat and gave it a good clean and the radiator a good flush so hopefully this should remedy the problem. Cheers, Alex Edited June 10, 2008 by QuickSilver Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
