tire 10 Report post Posted July 31, 2008 I bought an M10 off Tim a wee while ago to pull apart for shits and giggles. I thought it would be a good simple enigne to play with for a newbie, and it has. It also had the advantage of being the same as whats in my E30. I have made some good mistakes to learn from, most notably pulling the sump with the engine on the garage floor... guess what was in the sump . Ha. I didn't really intend on putting it back together - it only cost a full tank of gas. But Its mostly apart now and I want to first make it shiny, then put it back together and even make it run, if thats possible without it being in car. I'd like advice on all the bits that NEED to be replaced, and those that could/should be replaced. At the moment as far as NEEDS go, I know all the gaskets incl. head gasket need replacing. As for shoulds/coulds, I beleive its piston rings, valve stems, valve stem seals and any hoses that are squishy or cracked. But surely there is more... What screws, nuts, and bolts need to replaced when putting back together, if any? Does any compulsory machining need to be done when putting back together? I heard rumor about some crankshaft bearings... can anyone elaborate? Any scraps you care to chuck at me are much appreciated. Cheers. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hotwire 352 Report post Posted July 31, 2008 More involved to put back together. Cant start when not in car - starter mounts to bell housing. Quick rundown: Yes replace rings, big end bearings & maybe crankshaft bearings (depending on condition) Need to check /measure bores for wear - no point of replacing rings if bores are worn. Yes replace all gaskets Check oil pump Check water pump Head should be checked/tested/ resurfaced/skimmed if necessary. Valve stem seals replaced Should replace head studs, rest ok Replace any hose etc that are suspect Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike 1 Report post Posted July 31, 2008 (edited) are the head bolts TTY? I've read conflicting info on that? Tastic, I did the same thing a while ago, just pulled apart a dead M10 for spares, the things are bloody basic, nothing tricky about them (AFAIK) at all Gotta ask why put it back together if your trying to sell your car though? I doubt a semi rebuilt M10 would fetch much past what it cost you in bits. Pull it apart, see how they work, then give me left over bits so I can choose the best for my stroker turbo build. Edited July 31, 2008 by Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tire 10 Report post Posted July 31, 2008 (edited) are the head bolts TTY? I've read conflicting info on that? Tastic, I did the same thing a while ago, just pulled apart a dead M10 for spares, the things are bloody basic, nothing tricky about them (AFAIK) at all Gotta ask why put it back together if your trying to sell your car though? I doubt a semi rebuilt M10 would fetch much past what it cost you in bits. Pull it apart, see how they work, then give me left over bits so I can choose the best for my stroker turbo build. Yes nice and basic. I too have read diffo info on head bolts Be aware I wasn't putting it back together to put in my car. The M10 in mine is fine, in fact I just found a receipt for rings and bearings done at 100,000 I admit, economically it doesn't make sense to rebuild it as I could easily spend $300 on it and only sell it for what.... $250? Like you said. But I dunno, its still a great learning exp. When I'm done, you can have it for $125 which is what I bought it for if you like. I want to clean it first as thats the best way in the world to learn all about a thing. Hotwire - thank you. I deffo need to invest in a feeler gauge. What should one look for in an oil pump? oh and my E30 isnt for sale at the mo as I'll need it for the next month. Edited August 1, 2008 by tastic Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
QuickSilver 0 Report post Posted August 1, 2008 (edited) Things to include in rebuild : Turbo Refer to persons above previous post Edited August 1, 2008 by QuickSilver Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tire 10 Report post Posted August 2, 2008 Things to include in rebuild : Turbo Refer to persons above previous post I'm 67, far too old for turbos Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
QuickSilver 0 Report post Posted August 2, 2008 Fair enough Just a thought! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tcbaurpower 5 Report post Posted August 4, 2008 I'm 67, far too old for turbos Well thats not the attutide to have is it. lol. I am sure you would enjoy learning how they work, get some of the young ones to show you. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tire 10 Report post Posted August 6, 2008 Well thats not the attutide to have is it. lol. I am sure you would enjoy learning how they work, get some of the young ones to show you. I would gladly do it if I got my money back, but whos going to pay for a turbo motor built by a noob? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kiwi535 538 Report post Posted August 6, 2008 I'm 67, far too old for turbosyeah right 67 - 50! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tire 10 Report post Posted August 6, 2008 shhh Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Simon* Report post Posted August 6, 2008 I'm 67, far too old for turbos What's your secret Max??? How do you manage to stay looking 18 in your sixties? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tire 10 Report post Posted August 7, 2008 (edited) nutri-grain But seriously, getting the f**ker on the stand this weekend is not going to be easy with just me and one other. Is there any where thats shows what holes on the block to use... I can only see one by where the starter goes but haven't looked incredibly hard? Edited August 7, 2008 by tastic Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CamB 48 Report post Posted August 7, 2008 nutri-grain But seriously, getting the f**ker on the stand this weekend is not going to be easy with just me and one other. Is there any where thats shows what holes on the block to use... I can only see one by where the starter goes but haven't looked incredibly hard? I used the bottom two (at the corners of the bellhousing) and the top two either side of the head gasket mounting surface. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tire 10 Report post Posted August 7, 2008 (edited) Cheers Cam I was thinking about using the tranny mounting bolts but they will be too short to clear the mounting tubes on the stand (tubes are 65mm, realoem says tranny bolts are 45mm). I need to shop for a 90mm x M8 (i think its m8??) Edited August 7, 2008 by tastic Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CamB 48 Report post Posted August 7, 2008 Cheers Cam I was thinking about using the tranny mounting bolts but they will be too short to clear the mounting tubes on the stand (tubes are 65mm, realoem says tranny bolts are 45mm). I need to shop for a 90mm x M8 (i think its m8??) Engineering shop usually cheaper (by about 80%) than Repco etc, and you should measure the length you want and take the old bolts to make sure you get the right diameter and thread pitch. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
keen 6 Report post Posted August 10, 2008 Try to get in touch with Ian at eurotech in Palmerston North. I know that he got 220 hp out of one that is on his shop floor at the moment. that was dynoed at that. and no turbo. I don't think it was fuel injected either. But he would help with the details if you contacted him I sure. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CamB 48 Report post Posted August 10, 2008 Try to get in touch with Ian at eurotech in Palmerston North. I know that he got 220 hp out of one that is on his shop floor at the moment. that was dynoed at that. and no turbo. I don't think it was fuel injected either. But he would help with the details if you contacted him I sure. That'll be $100 (plus) per horsepower, thanks very much. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew 30 Report post Posted August 11, 2008 Try to get in touch with Ian at eurotech in Palmerston North. I know that he got 220 hp out of one that is on his shop floor at the moment. that was dynoed at that. and no turbo. I don't think it was fuel injected either. But he would help with the details if you contacted him I sure. Sure it wasn't an S14? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CamB 48 Report post Posted August 11, 2008 It can be done - these ones have 220/240hp M10 engines: http://www.race-cars.com/carsales/crossle/...186041366ss.htm http://www.race-cars.com/carsold/chevron/b6dbe8/b6dbe8ss.htm Just don't expect it to be cheap or last long! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
keen 6 Report post Posted August 12, 2008 (edited) No it is not an s14 I saw the motor being built and he said he was looking at around the200hp mark and that even surprised me as I am in the early stages of a m42 build and thought that would be good hp for me too but once the m10 was in the car they dynoed it and it came up 220. the car is being raced in the inter marq series at manfield. I'm not sure of the driver but I don't think he is in the top bracket but I understand he was right there with the e30 m3 of warren. Not sure of his surname. but that car is new this season too. Edited August 12, 2008 by keen Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tire 10 Report post Posted August 16, 2008 Speaking of s14.. apparently you can use s14 HG on a bored out m10. Thought that was cool. M10 is hooked up, if any1 is wondering, it takes two m10x90mm and two m8x90mm (or 85mm if you can find) bolts. Just popped down to the local to get some sh*t and look what was on the can of degreaser...m10 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tire 10 Report post Posted August 26, 2008 (edited) Feeling pretty spesh right now, got it fully dismantled , holding pistons in your hand is fun. Very surreal for a no0b like myself. The wear looks fairly extensive. The crank bearing oil holes are all ovaled out. A LOT of lateral play between conrod and piston. Cylinders possibly out of round. Bearings I dunno eally what to look for. That cank pullry bolt is an absoulte bitch... apparently its tourqed to 190Nm, I wouldn't be suprised. Edited August 26, 2008 by tastic Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Silver Fox 43 Report post Posted August 26, 2008 I found that with a hunk of pipe in the crank to stop it turning, and a 3/4 inch socketset with a 1 and a 1/2 metre 2inch steel pipe works well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Creaver 55 Report post Posted August 26, 2008 I found that with a hunk of pipe in the crank to stop it turning, and a 3/4 inch socketset with a 1 and a 1/2 metre 2inch steel pipe works well. Works a treat. I used my jack handle. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
