topcat 11 Report post Posted March 21, 2009 its coming together nicely m Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bravo 35 Report post Posted March 22, 2009 Day 9 Not all that exciting today - lots of hours, not much worth taking pictures of. Basically I bolted up everything I mocked up yesterday, fabbed a few things, put most of the wiring back where it should be etc. View of lower IC mounts and oil cooler. Note the trick oil cooler brackets - they are the original ones, cut down slightly and reversed so what used to attach to the car now attaches to the cooler and vice versa, then flipped upside down, and the rubber cooler mounts flipped. Looks factory. I had to bend the oil cooler pipes slightly to make it miss the radiator - also had to trim a small bit off the bottom of the radiator tank (just part of the bracket) to gain the few mm I needed. At first I thought It was impossible until I realised I'd left the rubber radiator mounts out and that gained me 10mm. The radiator tank is just out of focus at top left. Not the clearance with the tank trimmed - not much! Pics of hot side of IC piping and air filter as promised. may be welding a small piece of metal in front to replace some of what I removed. Initially I needed it all out, but rearranged things and managed to get it so I could have left a 15-20mm wide bit of metal there, so may weld it back - not sure of what the certifier will want. BOV for Glen Beer Count: 52 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mattzy 0 Report post Posted March 22, 2009 Coming along nicely dude. I noticed that your IC piping is rather long and twisting. Remember you want to keep the piping as short as possible while keeping amount of bends and radius to a minimum. Maybe cut that metal one a bit shorter and throw a 90 degree joiner on and go from there. I duno - just a suggestion. I'm liking the tricky oil cooler placement too. You could even make a cool lower intake shroud out of some sheet metal for it. Mmmm sheetmetal ducting.. and rivets... Argh, must stay away from forced induction! Anyway, Keep it coming bro! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
E30-323ti 66 Report post Posted March 23, 2009 SC shouldn't be drawing too much at closed throttle. But I totally see where you are coming from. Not sure if you know, but this was a working setup in another car. My theory is that I should be able to get it working in my car for fairly limited cost, and then spend the money in the right places to improve it. From what I know on the subject, and what I know about this system, there are some minor tuning issues. Whether I can resolve these and leave the TB as it is is yet to be decided. The BOV is fairly large, and has a fairly large (IMO) return line. Thanks for your comments - definitely food for thought. Well the SC will be spinning @6000rpm when said throttle shuts, displacing 1400cc/rev so that = a decent amount of air I bet. Looks like a BOV from an EVO, which are pretty decent as far as OEM BOV's go. You may not have a prob. running 6psi, and good to see the horrible stock TB elbow gone so it shouldn't blow apart. The only setup's I have seen are the stock 1g-gze & 4a-ge a BMFR (323 Turbo) with an SC14 and a Altezza RS200 running the "blitz" kit (uses an SC14), which was the only one running the TB after the SC, but it also maintains the magnetic clutch and disconnects the drive on closed throttle and with no BOV. You could look at something similar if you have any issues, but with 6psi and only possible probs on high RPM gear changes it should be fine as you say. Keep up the good work!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
320guy 0 Report post Posted March 23, 2009 I think this setup was still using the magnetic clutch, but just hooked up to a switch in the cabin. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bravo 35 Report post Posted March 23, 2009 Correct. Plan to in the meantime hook up the clutch switch to the old AC switch. May be fairly simple to tap into the TPS and have it shut of at closed throttle - e30 TPS is pretty basic, the hard bit is getting it to activate a relay. Anyone who knows how to do this speak up. Tonight I got 90% of the wiring sorted - tomorrow night I should be able to test-start the motor. Anyone got any ideas on the following: I have a third horn - the horn itself works - accidently hooked it up to the indicators - interesting result when I flipped the hazard switch - at least no-one could argue they didn't know I intended to turn! Anyway, when plugged into the only spare plug that fits on the correct side of the vehicle it doesn't do anything - onnly the other two sound. Anyone know what the story is?! Also, I have two earth straps at the chassis point. One goes to the earth pin on the sump - where does the other go? My 320, and my dad's 323i only have the sump one. For some reason when I dismantled his didn't get labelled - must have been obvious at the time, but now I can'[t figure it out. I also have one spare plug on the driver's side where the headlamps are. It's clean so was plugged into something - everything works, so can't figure it out. The plug is black - can find out wire colours if necessary. Anyone know??? So close now.... Beer Count: 56 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bravo 35 Report post Posted March 23, 2009 Looks like a BOV from an EVO, which are pretty decent as far as OEM BOV's go. You may not have a prob. running 6psi, and good to see the horrible stock TB elbow gone so it shouldn't blow apart. Yep - EVO BOV I'm told. The stock TB elbow blew up like a balloon. Had to go. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bravo 35 Report post Posted March 24, 2009 It runs! Drive line not connected, front of car still in bits, lots of finishing off to do , power steer not connected, a few warning lights, wiring needs tidying, but it runs. Bled coolant, and no issues with the motor. Should be able to do a shake down run by the end of the weekend all going well. Then I have to get a cert, and I suspect a couple of minor issues there as I have been reading the cert manual. Want the certifier to see it first though before I waste time doing it wrong. Beer Count: 62 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grant 4 Report post Posted March 24, 2009 Fantastic - great work. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boost Junky 1 Report post Posted March 24, 2009 Awesome man! Drink up dude you still got a few to catch upto my beer count Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Simon* Report post Posted March 24, 2009 Score! Nice one G Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_BRS_ 209 Report post Posted March 24, 2009 wikeeeed! Things are coming along quite fast! Vids of this w.es testing would be nice Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
320guy 0 Report post Posted March 24, 2009 It might just be easier to setup another switch for the throttle / SC. It isnt hard at all to hook a relay up to the TPS, but weather or not it will interfere with the ECU is a different story. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bravo 35 Report post Posted March 24, 2009 Correct. Plan to in the meantime hook up the clutch switch to the old AC switch. May be fairly simple to tap into the TPS and have it shut of at closed throttle - e30 TPS is pretty basic, the hard bit is getting it to activate a relay. Hooked the SC clutch feed up to pin 1 on connector c200 instead - power from ignition with ignition in ON position, but not when in START or ACC positions. I'm not sure whether the SC needs to to turn whilst cranking/starting, but started it 2-3 times so far OK. First time cranked for a bit to get fuel, and thyird time cranked a few times as I think it wanted a tiny bit of throttle to start. If it's always hard to start I'll try changing it to being on when ignition is in ON and START. Was going to be a PITA to hook up to AC switch as the blower fan would always be on low, and there's a diode on the AC clutch feed, etc. i could have figured it out, but this is better I think. Anyone got any ideas on the following: I have a third horn - the horn itself works - accidently hooked it up to the indicators - interesting result when I flipped the hazard switch - at least no-one could argue they didn't know I intended to turn! Anyway, when plugged into the only spare plug that fits on the correct side of the vehicle it doesn't do anything - onnly the other two sound. Anyone know what the story is?! Anyone know about this? Also, I have two earth straps at the chassis point. One goes to the earth pin on the sump - where does the other go? My 320, and my dad's 323i only have the sump one. For some reason when I dismantled his didn't get labelled - must have been obvious at the time, but now I can'[t figure it out. Went to the generator - I actually think I added this a year or two ago when I was having earth-loop issues with my sounds. So I put it back as added security. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
320guy 0 Report post Posted March 24, 2009 It will run with the SC turned off, but be pretty slow. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike 1 Report post Posted March 25, 2009 other earth strap might go to the head? lots of sensors/grounds on there. Pretty sure that I have one to the head and one to the block Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jamez 2147483647 Report post Posted March 25, 2009 my old m10 engine had one to the head one to the block either side, but both my m20's have had only one Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bravo 35 Report post Posted March 25, 2009 (edited) Thanks - wouldn't reach the head - definitely was a backup[ to the generator - found the clean bit on the old generator it came off, and almost certain I actually fitted it a couple of years ago as said. So last night I bolted up d-shaft, heat shield and exhaust, and did some tidying of the wiring under the dash so the interior is all back together, fitted my new shifter boot (thanks Nathan B.), and gave it another run with exhaust fitted so I could fill and bleed power steering. Need to give it a shakedown run to blow some cobwebs. To do: Buy exhaust gasket (leaks where bolts to manifold) Buy nylock nuts for engine and gearbox mounts as per LVV manual Weld reinforcing bar in front of airfilter to replace removed metal Paint all bare metal edges and install grommet strip Find out about driveshaft loop as per LVV manual - anyone know what is required ? Flush coolant Finish tidying up engine bay Buy oil catch can and fit Refit body panels Do a skid Obtain cert Have mtech II front repainted (again). Beer Count: 67 Edited March 25, 2009 by bravo Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_BRS_ 209 Report post Posted March 25, 2009 Do a skid Lol thats is what we need vid footage of! This project is wiked, cant wait to see the finished product in person! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
320guy 0 Report post Posted March 26, 2009 Dont think you will need the driveshaft hoop. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bravo 35 Report post Posted March 26, 2009 Certifier recommends it. See my other thread. If certifier recommends it, I do it - only want to get inspected for cert once as I have to take a day off work and drive 80km to his workshop. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
QuickSilver 0 Report post Posted March 26, 2009 Looks fantastic Graham, what does certifier say about brakes? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bravo 35 Report post Posted March 26, 2009 (edited) The fact I have vented discs all round means that as long as they pass the braking test they're OK. Braking test is 3 hard stops from 100km/h within 2 mins without sign of deterioration. Should be fine? Will test myself before I go for cert, and if borderline might throw some decent pads in. Race series guys get along OK pushing they're brakes harder than that. Drove it for the first time at 1am this morning (was supposed to finish at 10pm, but ran into a few hiccups, and I had decided I was driving it last night no matter what lol!) I was very tired and it was dark, and first run so didn't push it hard (didn't want this post to be a " so I got the car going and promptly put it in a ditch") Went fairly well. Can hear the SC until the exhaust noise takes over, and the BOV is nicely muted. You can hear it in the car, but doubt you'd hear much from outside. Pulls like f**k in 1st and 2nd, but on the roads I was on and the speed I was happy doing it was hard to say how much better 3rd and 4th were. I do know on the straight before my driveway I made an easy 10-15km/h more at a mailbox I use as a yard stick. Some wrinkles to iron out, and a few things to do and It'll be done. So a few more beers yet, but not too many. Beer Count: 74 Edited March 26, 2009 by bravo Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Simon* Report post Posted March 26, 2009 IT LIVES!!!!!!!!!!!!! Nice work G Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forrest 35 Report post Posted March 26, 2009 Congrats Graham, keep it up. Can't wait to see this in person one day Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
