Carl 3 Report post Posted November 4, 2004 Has anyone done this??? I've been looking at E30 Zone and it looks fairly simple and straight forward tips, comments? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Spargo Report post Posted November 4, 2004 Z4 3.0 is the notchiest, then Z4 2.5, Gus has M-Roaster (correct?) Which is the hardest to fit, requires sheet metal bending. Z3 1.9 is the best for hustling at higher revs, according to those in the know. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gus 5 Report post Posted November 4, 2004 yes....i have for you it would be easy...you only have to bend the shift rod if you have a harmonic balancer (you dont)....i just added another plastic cup to raise it slighly...ive got the z3 M lever....love it aye...first thing thats going on the new car. i might try the z4 3. just for a change...wouldnt bother with the z3 1.9....looks like a waste of time Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Carl 3 Report post Posted November 4, 2004 Cheers for the Gus, do you have the part number for that Z3-M lever??? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gus 5 Report post Posted November 4, 2004 nope used to....PM glenn he has etk...my comp lost it i like the z3 m lever..about the same height as stock (closer to steering wheel) and its short.....i hate driving stock shifts now Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Carl 3 Report post Posted November 4, 2004 Judging by that then the Z4-3 sounds like a good one to go for...really need to try out the different lengths first Got a pic of your Z3-M lever to give us an idea of its height in the car? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
E30-323ti 66 Report post Posted November 4, 2004 Or, you could do it the cheap way. Cut the shaft between the ball and the linkage point, add in a little piece of Al and get it welded back together, you could even get the bit you chopped off stuck back on. MZ-3 25 11 2 228 384 My ETK doesn't cover the Z4's Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MattA 165 Report post Posted November 4, 2004 I have done what Glenn has just sugested works sweet and was free... yehaa though could use some new plastic spacers.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Carl 3 Report post Posted November 4, 2004 Cheap bastards haha, I don't have welding facilities so i'll do it the $100 way BTW, can anyone tell me which lever this part number belongs to??? 25.11.1.434.148 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
E30-323ti 66 Report post Posted November 4, 2004 2.0l Z3 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MattA 165 Report post Posted November 4, 2004 Haha if you could see my welding skills u would deffinitly go the $100 way... It will be redone when I put the new box in couple of weeks hopefully.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Carl 3 Report post Posted November 6, 2004 Hmmm, can anyone tell me whether or not the Z lever conversion will or will NOT work for all types of the g/box/lever assembly thingees, I don't have the manual to explain what i'm talking about, but it's what holds the bloody lever assembly in place and is mounted to the chasis behind where the lever comes down and connect to the g/box. Mine is the one that's different to Tim's and Tane's, it has a fork rather than a circle.... Anyone know what i'm talking about?????? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gus 5 Report post Posted November 6, 2004 as in you have an aluminium one and tim has a sheet metal console? ive got the sheet metal one too....the aluminium does work, i think you do need a special tool of some description to get the plastic bushings out though...but apart from that its mighty similar...who knows...give it a go and let us know how you go Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
