Buying E39/E38 (noob)

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hey all,

just have a few noob questions. as mentioned in my intro, am looking at moving to a E39/E38.

For someone whos not very well BMW oriented, please be forgiving.

What are some of the things I should look out for when looking at an E39/E38?

what are some things that should have been replaced or had work done on, and if not, should I expect it to crap out?

I dont konw a lot about the engines, but as far as I know, the E39's (520, 523, 525, 528s) didn't have cambelts?

so in that regard, what kind of maintenance should have been done on them or need to be done on them? i.e waterpumps? obviously fluid servicing - oils, trans fluid, water/coolant. any particular things?

anything wrong with purchasing something with high mileage, obviously with a descent paper/listed/recorded service history, they shouldnt give too much problems? please shed some light on buying higher mileage E39/38.

anything wrong in particular with singarpore imports/japanese imports?

how much approximately am I in for if I make a purchase, then need/want to get full service done on the vehicle through places like Burger Motor Works / BMWorkshop etc (bmw specialists who aren't dealerships)?

for i.e oil/oil filter, trans fluid flush, waterpump and other related servicing..

what is recommended in terms of servicing (what needs/should be done)?

thats all I can think of at the moment, thanks

[neelnaize 0]

Would be very wise and peace of mind getting vehicle looked at from a bmw workshop. Doesnt cost much i think $140-$180 but they will critique the car like no body's business. This way you know exactly what you should expect. Major issue that i know of with E38 is the ball joints and suspension components can get dated and if not kept up-to-date can cost a bit. If you can get a mechanical warranty, best thing i did for my e38. Best of luck what kind of budget and specs are you after? Are you in Auckland?

Edited July 7, 2009 by neelnaize

[euroitalian 62]

Almost all the Singapore imports I encounter suffer from annoying/expensive plastic and rubber deterioration. Think window rubbers, door seals, plastic mouldings, clips, fittings etc etc.

[39KiwiTouring 2]

E39 Advice, Look for Kiwi new or Japan import not singapoor. Look for service history, get it pre-purchase inspection by a BMW dealer or specialised garage. Check cooling system to see if original (plastic parts), check smoothness of transmission change when cold at low speed, go for a 6 cylinder IMO, stay away from a 96 520i as they are a bit underpowered but cheap have seen them for as low as $4k.

Despite other opinions they are of not lessor quality to the predesecor E34, I know I've had both.

Most importantly take your time, make sure no historical electrical fault codes logged in the ecu and no dash warning lights are on, dont' buy on looks buy on the merits and you should be fine. Check the person selling if they looked liked they skimped on servicing then it will haunt you if they look flush and what ever the car needed it got type are always the best.

E39 same as above but the 5 series are easier to sell usually.

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as said in my intro, at an approximate budget of around $8k.

yes I am in auckland. Specs wise, im not too fussed, so it doesn't worry me too much if its a 520, 523, 528. Definitely not wanting to go to the V8 models as obvious with pricing, I dont wanna be stuck with a huge gas bill as I do travel a bit just oging to work and back.

and for e38 - probably jsut a nice tidy 728 will do me. im not in it for performance, will be modifying a little bit aesthetically, and maintenance wise, then using it to cruise/drive and then probably end up selling it in short term (car wise anyways).

[hybrid 1043]

Just remember the lower the engine literage on a bigger car generally speaking the more gas youll realistically use.

The 540's are actually pretty good on gas. best compromise would be a 530i

[BreakMyWindow 1874]

ive had both 6 cylinder and 8 cylinder e39's. You can pick up a good deal on a higher mileaged, just have the following thouroughly checked.

- Transmission. Majority of e39's here are auto be it imported or Nz new. These are very expensive to replace and repair, they require specialist labour and parts that will most likely need to come direct from Germany. Higher mileage ones should have had a fluid replacement, but also bear in mind the rest of the running gear like prop shaft bearings, flexi disc joints, diff seals and mountings.

- Engine. Very robust in my opinion, higher milage ones keep on going strong so long as they are seviced regularly (just like most reputable car makes) Watch out for old looking plastics i.e radiators and expansion tanks, they will be bound to leave u stranded at some stage if a burst water pipe won't.. Engines will be warped useless if severly over heated. The 6's can develop an annoying tick so it pays to start them up cold and have a good listen for this. Powersteering hoses leak but u can live with it depending on how big a leak.

- Body. Built like a brick sh*t house, but also very easy to brake plastic fittings if diy'ing stuff. Very well protected from rust so any rust would indicate signs of crappy damage repair or a e39 thats much too low... There are several options for styling.. Factory M body kits for these must be worth at least a decent e30 tho.

- Suspension. Designed with comfort and enthusiastic driving in mind.. u wont see any 6 cyl e39 era commodores or falcons with an entirely aluminium suspension setup. a wobbly steering wheel and vibrations coming from front or rear at certain speeds can be from worn busings, particulary thrust arms, and they can be hard to diagnose upon visual inspection. Ball joints and wheel bearings should be tested/checked also, it's important to pay special attention to these items if the car has been lowered and there is little suspension travel left. Tyres wil be eaten in no time if allignment has alot of neg. camber, and toe in/out

Make sure u check everything electrical works, there is a good service history, and u will enjoy owning one of these great cars.

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thanks, that was qutie informative, will have to jott that stuff down when I start going around and looking at a few.