e30 318i Manuel Conversion

[PeteG 0]

Hi,

Has anyone here done a manuel conversion on a e30 318i or any e30? Im just looking for pointers on what to look out for, what not to do, and any tricks.

Ive got all the parts, (box, drive shaft, clutch, pedelbox, flywheel etc)

Thanks

[Carl 3]

I posted a thread with pictures a while ago after doing the conversion on my car. Still have all the pics though if you want them.

There's quite a few people here that have done the conversion on E30's, PM bumpstop325 (Tim) as he's the most experiened at conversions now.

Here's my suggestions:

Replace as many parts as you can before you do the work. Get a clutch kit (pressure plate, clutch disc, release bearing) and a clutch repair kit (master and slave cylinder kits) from BNT, it's cheaper and it's very important preventative maintenance wise plus it'll make it feel like a new box

MAKE sure you have a spigot bearing (goes on the end of the g/box input shaft) auto's don't have them and you may not have one with the manual you've got. Perhaps get an output shaft bearing aswell as an output shaft seal.

Check the g/box mounts and the shift lever mechanism mounts aren't worn out. Check the flexi disc isn't worn out. Make sure you have the right driveshaft and use the right driveshaft mount!!!

Check the shift lever has all the necessary bits, perhaps replace these otherwise you may end up with a sloppy shift lever...

Don't mount the clutch fluid resevoir too low, it's gravity fed so needs to be quite high up in the engine bay. Be sure to check that the clutch line doesn't leak.

IMO, flush the g/box oil and use redline manual transmission oil, DON'T use ATF fluid unless you have one of those weird boxes.

I'm sure there's more pointers to follow, expect this to be a weekend job, but the benefits are endless.

[Hartage 0]

What Carl says to true.

Watch out for that drive shaft mount. Did your box come out of a face lift or pre face lift??

There are differances in the mounts. There are differences in the length of the drive shaft. Though in all the casesthat i have seen or been involved in were m20 ( 6 cylinder ) motors.

IMHO

[PeteG 0]

The kit is out of a 91 E30 318i, so it has the new shifter setup (solid alloy rather than the what looked like pressed metal in the earlier ones). This kit was put into another BMW for a week which had built up but went to get a warrent and the car failed on some pillar damage so the car was broken down for parts. I also got a diff with the kit which I think has better ratios (still to confirm) than the one that came with the Auto. I really wanted a LSD but they are soooooooo hard to come by.

As far as i can tell all mounts etc are good.

[PeteG 0]

///Carl could you post the photos? That would be really helpful.

Im figuring that the Pedal box is probably going to be the hardest part. Would I be right?

[Carl 3]

Will post photos when I get the time, all at home sitting in folder.

Pedal box is a mission but it's more of a frustration than the mission getting the auto box out and sticking the manual one in. Unless you have a car hoist or good car pit by far the hardest part is getting at all the bolts on the auto box then switching them.

Forgot to say, it also helps to get a clutch alignment tool for when sticking the manual in, cheap as chips from repco.

PM bumpstop325, he'll probably get you to drive down to Palmy and do it, but it'll save you time and money.

[Gus 5]

talk to tim (bumpstop325) he will do it for you for a very reasonable price...the pedal box is very frustrating when you don't know how to do it...i kicked myself when tim explained what i needed to have done..its not actually that hard. if you need another diff Abby has a manual one if you need it which i dont think she needs

[318i Turbo 0]

i found on my 318 the hardst part was removing the starter motor just tricky and time consuming (was on a m10 motor), the pedal box is not to bad just remove as much stuff as pos from under the dash to make it easyer it makes it a faster job to as you dont get all shity and waste time trying to shortcut.

good luck with the swap man

[Carl 3]

Some decent photos from my conversion

[Carl 3]

Torque converter from the auto

[Carl 3]

After you take the torque converter off you need to stick in the spigot bearing inside the engine output shaft

Edited December 9, 2004 by ///Carl

[Carl 3]

Then you use the clutch alignment tool to stick on the flywheel and clutch plate then the pressure plate over the top before pulling the alignment tool out.

[Carl 3]

Pressure plate sitting over the clutch plate and flywheel

[Carl 3]

Then you stick on the gearbox, hook up the shift lever mechanism, then attach the drivershaft

[bravo 35]

Perhaps this thread warrants sticky status?

[PeteG 0]

Thnx heaps for the photos... Doesnt look too hard.

how can you tell what the ratios are on a Diff?

[Hartage 0]

There is a tag on the rear of the diff housing. The first three numbers are the ratio.

[PeteG 0]

Im no mechanic but what is the prefered ratio?

the diff I got says 4:10

Is that arse?

[Carl 3]

4.11 is arse if you want economy, but for a 318 that should be sort of mid to short.

As an indication of diff sizes, the tallest ratio I know of is a 2.92, the shortest ratio I know of is a 4.64. The shorter the diff ratio the faster the acceleration but the lower the top speed will be.

I'm using a 3.25 at the mo which is extremely eceonomical, my swing-o-meter says I do 13 km/l when doing 2200 rpm @ 100kph. In contrast, when I had a 4.45 ratio the lyingbastard-o-meter said I did 9km/l while doing 3200 rpm @ 100kph.

Your diff choice should be your favourite balance of acceleration vs. economy/cruising. I like a touring kind of cruising diff, but the 3.25 is still a little too long. It was fun with the 4.45 though!!!!one!!!111!!!

[PeteG 0]

So What your saying is the diff I have will give good accelleration or good top speed?

[Carl 3]

Short diff = fast acceleration = uneconomical

Long diff = slower acceleration = economical

4.11 is quite short given that it's at the shorter end of the scale although with the 318 it wouldn't be hell.

As an indication, using a Getrag 260 gbox with the 6cyl:

4.64 = very short diff, top end = 195kph

4.45 = quite short, top end = 205kph

3.73 = middle-ish diff, top end = 250kph*

3.45 = long, top end = 285kph*

3.25 = very long diff, top end = 305 kph*

2.92 = extremely long diff, top end = 320kph*

*theoretical, would be impossible due to the E30's having the aerodynamics of a brick.

I can say though that the 4.45 did redline in 5th at 205 kph

Edited December 10, 2004 by ///Carl

[318i Turbo 0]

the 4.10 diff works very well with the 318, :thumb: i wouldnt go any longer or shorter stick with it

[petone 0]

I pretty sure i got a 3.91 in my 5spd 318 and i wouldn't go any longer. I'd keep that one if i was you.

[PeteG 0]

The one Im taking out is a 4.45 but think that its got a problem as it sounds like a very distant concrete cutter (hiss).

My problem at the moment is finding somewhere to get a Spigot bearing as Repco dont sell them..? I will give Saeco a call on monday to see if they do them. Anyone know where I can get one?

[petone 0]

Don't go to repco for any parts for european cars, the dealer will be cheaper!

As for the bearing the dealer will have them and maybe BNT. I would try BNT first as they should be cheaper.