Guest FrantiC Report post Posted September 9, 2009 Any tips on removing a rear halfshaft from an e30.. I'm stuck on trying to pop free the 30mm nut that's probably rusted as f*ck. i soaked it 2 days ago in crc, again just before and pulled out the Impact wrench, wouldnt break it free. Got the ol 2m pole and had a swing, won't BUDGE. I have an entire trail arm i could just swap in with the new axle, But not if it means removing the subframe?? I've done my subframe before and don't wish too again Lol not in the mood. Unless a trail arm can be done in place?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Silver Fox 43 Report post Posted September 9, 2009 Trailing arm can be done in place, just a pain to get at the top bolts at the cross member, but I've done a few now and it isn't too bad. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest FrantiC Report post Posted September 9, 2009 (edited) Too much effort with the trail arm, Going to have to rebleed breaks etc.. FFS. I tried removing it but theres no room for my 19mm ring spanners and the bolts are pretty much seized on now too. My mates bringing over a massive as impact wrench he uses with trucks and buses at his work, I am hoping either the bolt gives up and comes loose, rather than my socket exploding to pieces Edited September 9, 2009 by FrantiC Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
skidz 196 Report post Posted September 9, 2009 There is a locking washer that holds the nut tight. Unless you remove this first, undoing the nut is very difficult. But sometimes you have to destroy the washer to get it out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest FrantiC Report post Posted September 9, 2009 There is a locking washer that holds the nut tight. Unless you remove this first, undoing the nut is very difficult. But sometimes you have to destroy the washer to get it out. Where abouts is it ?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RyanG 0 Report post Posted September 9, 2009 Its around the nut. Part 7. http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?mo...hg=33&fg=25 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest FrantiC Report post Posted September 9, 2009 I can't see it? How does it come off? I got the one out of the trail arm easy as, I think it was loose though, and there was no locking collar thingy. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest FrantiC Report post Posted September 9, 2009 I see it now, How on earth is it meant to come out?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
skidz 196 Report post Posted September 9, 2009 Use something sharp, or even a screwdriver to act like a cold chisel, and destroy it. Just try not to damage the nut. Oh and much easier if you do this with the trailing arm still attached, so you can use the hand brake to hold against the nut when you loosen it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest FrantiC Report post Posted September 9, 2009 Got it out, Used a sharp small flat head screw driver and a mallet bent around the edges and pulled it out with pliers. Bolt popped right off.. Now to figure out how the axles slide out, then in again. No gear puller FTL. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
|ncary 0 Report post Posted September 10, 2009 The axles slide in and out of the hub with ease once the nut is off. Give the splines a grease when it goes back in too. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boost Junky 1 Report post Posted September 10, 2009 The axles slide in and out of the hub with ease once the nut is off. Give the splines a grease when it goes back in too. Haha was a different story with my 318is ones Henry dude that works at brake and clutch who is a rather large fellow and had a nice juicy hammer had to swing at it about 15 almighty times before one side started to slip out lol! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest FrantiC Report post Posted September 10, 2009 The one in the trail arm I got came out with BFH and pipe after about 5 solid whacks. The one in at the moment does NOT move at all. Have taken atleast 50 hard swings at it with a BFH, soaked it in CRC, brake parts cleaner, wd40 (whatever I had laying around), Small gear puller did nothing. GRRR! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Creaver 55 Report post Posted September 10, 2009 Bigger FH? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest FrantiC Report post Posted September 10, 2009 Mini sledge ftw? If I go any bigger i'll probably start bending the trail arm with the amount of force + anger I am putting into these swings. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
|ncary 0 Report post Posted September 10, 2009 Guts oi, bl. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted September 10, 2009 (edited) Even the correct BMW tool can break doing this job. I designed and had made a special adaptor that fits all BMW's and Audi's that uses a 20 ton 2 stage hydraulic portapower to do this job oncar so we can do axle bearings, axles etc with ease. You can have alot of trouble doing this on some cars if the axle has rusted onto the splines inside the flange. If you keep smashing it you'll need to replace the bearing too. I hope your fitting 325 axles with the bigger joints. BTW: If the car has too much camber in the rear (too low) the angle created puts alot of pressure on the joints and they wont last, especially with the extra HP your now producing. Axle tramp due to spring rates and sh*t shocks wont help either. Edited September 10, 2009 by *Glenn* Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest FrantiC Report post Posted September 10, 2009 Yeah it used to be really low with heaps of camber but now have much higher springs and decent shocks so the rear won't be too soft anymore and be abit more stiffer hopefully. I'm just going to take it to BMW to sort and the speedo. I can't for the life of me get it to budge at all and I can't figure the speedo out either... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bellicose 9 Report post Posted September 10, 2009 Mate, hope you get the car sorted because you're running out of time before the skid/drift/meet over here in the 'naki, i would really like to see your car over here. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest FrantiC Report post Posted September 10, 2009 I just need to fit the front bumpstops on now, stick the front suspension in. Then all I need for the cert is: Wheel alignment Fix speedo (do the axle same time at BMW), Then hopefully next wednesday I get my gearstick dustboot cover, Si I have everything pretty much sussed. Unless this axle wants to be a complete PITA POS I should be good to go at the end of next week, everything WOF wise is sorted just the above couple things for lvv cert Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
