westy 614 Report post Posted September 23, 2009 (edited) Hi gurus Are there any common reasons why the factory alarm in a 97 E36 328 might decide that its going to go off for no apparent reason shortly after locking the car? Its a right pain in the arse as I cant lock without disconnecting the battery! Although so far it only seems to do it at home?!? WTF Edit: I've done a Goggle but cant seem to find what I'm looking for (that may not surprise some of you). Edited September 23, 2009 by westy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Simon* Report post Posted September 23, 2009 I did a "goggle" too mate but it was no good. Apparently you can't see underwater without the other one Sorry Good luck with the car though! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
westy 614 Report post Posted September 23, 2009 Google smoogle. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Simon* Report post Posted September 24, 2009 That one's available mate Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
martyyn 2 Report post Posted September 24, 2009 Everything I can find on the subject points to a dodgy sensor Tony. The bonnet sensor seems to be pretty common but also the interior motion sensor can apparently have its sensitivity turned down relatively easily which has solved the issue for some people. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grant 4 Report post Posted September 24, 2009 Tony My (now Andrew's) 97 E36 328 did exactly the same. It was knackered bit of wiring near the boot (that is exposed when the boot is open - near the LHS boot strut from memory) It would get water into it and cause the alarm to go. Cheers Grant Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
greenday-rulz21 6 Report post Posted September 24, 2009 Tony, Until you find and fix the problem just lock the car with the key. Thats what I had to do for a week or so when my remote wasn't working properly (If i touched unlock or lock for a millisecond too long it would set the alarm off). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
westy 614 Report post Posted September 24, 2009 Martyn, I tried the bonnet sensor, seemed to delay it but not fix it. I'll see if I can figure out the sensitivity adjustment and check the other sensors. I cant seem to find much that relates to this specific alarm which is odd. The LED flashes constantly when the alarm goes of, so no clues there either. Grant, will check that today. Nick, Thanks , but locking with the key arms the remote, so no go there. Also having intermittent problems with the remote lock/unlock. It sat unused for a couple of weeks, then I shifted it an upset it somehow. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted September 24, 2009 Does the car battery go flat if you leave the car unused for a couple of days Tony? Most alarms are voltage sensitive so that if someone breaks a window and then opens a door the interior light works and the alarm is triggered by current draw. If the battery does go flat after a couple of days I would do a current draw test on the car in sleep mode to make sure you dont have more than 20mA draw Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
westy 614 Report post Posted September 24, 2009 No it doesn't Glenn. Car can sit for weeks and the battery is fine. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jochen 4 Report post Posted September 25, 2009 Looking at the wiring diagram the alarm uses the following inputs (sensors) Boot light switch Drivers door handle switch Microphone All door switches Engine hood switch To test the alarm do the following: 1. Make sure EVERY door switch works cleanly and properly - open door and monitor interior light. Remove the door pin switches and make sure EVERY switch is clean and dry. A damp or oil/dirt coated switch can cause leakage and cause the alarm to false trigger. Measure with an ohmmeter set to the highest range (10M-ohms), you should have total open circuit when off, <1ohm when on. Clean and dry any suspect door switches. 2. Do the same for the boot and bonnet switch. Tip: disconnect 8unplug) boot and bonnet switches to isolate them. Bonnet switches are especially vunerable as they are exposed to much more weather (driving rain, salt spray etc) and can corrode and become leaky (resistance wise I mean) I have the USA wiring diagram that shows the USA alarm system - this may help. I'm not sure if the NZ alarm system was the same Alpine alarm as the USA system Happy to provide you a copy (PDF) if you need it. Working from the wiring diagram helps so much because it becomes very easy to understand how things are wired. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
westy 614 Report post Posted July 25, 2010 This problem goes on and on and now includes remote locking failure. Have studied wiring diagrams, bench tested door locks and fuel filler locks, checked closed switches(2xdoors, boot, bonnet), replaced relays in the GM4, forced doors to lock/unlock from GM connector, checked boot wiring. No action from the key turn in the boot, had action from manual key turn in drivers door from time to time but now nothing. Driving me to Jack. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
