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AzonicNick

E36 Audio install

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Hey all,

Next project im thinking about is upgrading the sounds in the e36. Am keen to get stuck in and do it right the first time, dont want to cut corners.

Want to include a small sub with matching tidy install in the boot and focus on the components. Probably need a bit of a amp to power this.

The main thing for me is that it must look factory. The sub will tick out a but that ok, its in the boot. Is it best to buy a box or make something that fits in the boot well? Also want front speakers to fit under the standard covers etc.

The trick for me is I'm keen to keep the factory head unit as I'm yet to find anything else that looks good in the dash. Whats the deal with factory amps? Would they power what Im after? I dont want a huge sounds system, just something with a bit more kick than the existing unit. Ill probably wire up the ipod through the headunit via the CD Stacker controller if I can fix the annoying volume knob.

Too many questions, sorry about that. Ive searched and found a few things but nothing exactly regarding the system as a whole. Am looking for any recommendations at this stage.

Any help much appreciated! Car is e36 coupe btw. Thanks!

Nick

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there are a few choice you have,

i think you need to make sure what ever you choose and know what positive or short comings you have.

I know you do want to keep your factory radio but i can honestly recommend an upgrade.

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5.25" components should drop into the existing front kickpanels. Anything bigger you will need to cut. Even aftermarket 5.25" may protrude a bit more and contact the kickpanel plastic but the plastic has an inner rim which can be dremeled down (will look normal from the outside).

You will need to change the amp, the factory one won't put out enough power for decent components.

Headunit - there are aftermarket choices available. In the past these included the Clarion range (black face with option to change to orange display), Alpine 9835... I'm sure you can still find newer HUs around that have a black faceplate and buttons that can be changed to orange. They match pretty well.

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+1 for clarion head unit. these produce a VERY good quality of sound, also pioneer produce some nice sound

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+1 for the Pioneer, mines got a black face with orange lights, not exactly the same as the dash lights but pretty damn close and looks mint. i also put some little 6" pioneers all round and kept the origional tweeters as they pump! then i got a 1000wat pioneer amp and 2 12inch pioneer subs, this setup can pump hard when u want it but it is also pretty low key from outside. i have the fold down seats in the back 2 so i flip the subs round to face in the car when the seats r down :) sound is even better.... what im trying to say is dont do a half ass job on it. do it once and do it well. if you dont want loud music then dont crank it to loud but you have the power there to do so and it also helps the re-sale. when i was looking at selling my e36 coupe all potential buyers would ask 1st to hear the sounds hehehe

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My Clarion has red lights,

are E36's red lit too?

http://img340.imageshack.us/img340/2229/dscn2928.jpg

Also, Any decent components as said earlier will require an amp.

Since you're after stock locations, get the best components for that size with the money you have, and not bother with rear speakers (or get cheapies) and power the rears off your headunit, and front components off the amp.

or you could get a 4 channel amp, run the front components off the amp, and bridge the remainder two channels for the sub.

Hope you can understand that :/

Edited by antil33t

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1. Budget?

2. What type of music do you listen to?

3. Bluetooth for phone?

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Alright I've gone and got myself a head deck off trademe that I will base my system around. Im not sure if this is a good base or not really but it looks good in the dash of the E36 and looks somewhat fitting for the era. It also has a RCA input for the CD changer which can be used as a input for my ipod. Power to the ipod doesnt worry me.

Posted Image

HEAD UNIT FEATURES

• Rotary Encoder type volume control

• Detachable face with carrying case

• Wireless remote control

• CD changer control capability

• Track scan/Track repeat / random play

• 8-cm (3") CD play w/o adapter

• PLL tuner,18FM/12AM PS

• PS scan/auto mem / auto DX-local

• Loudness

• Audio mute

• Subwoofer preamp output (RCA)

• Aux input (RCA)

• 4ch/4V Preamplifier output (RCA)

• CD changer inputs (RCA)

• Clock

HEAD UNIT SPECIFICATIONS

Max.power x 4 at 4 ohms 43W

D/A Converter Type 20-bit D/A converter with 8-times oversampling digital filter

Frequency Response 20Hz-20kHz (CD)

Signal-to-Noise Ratio Better than 85dB

FM Frequency Range in 200kHz steps 87.5-107.9MHz

AM Frequency Range in 10kHz steps 530-1710kHz

FM Sensitivity 15dBf(IHF)

Preamplifier Output Level 4.0V

Tone Controls

Bass 100Hz±11dB

Mid 1kHz±11dB

Treble 10kHz±11dB

Outer Dimensions (W x H x D) 7" x 1-15/16" x 6-11/16"

It is on my list of things to do this weekend. At the moment I will install the head deck and go from there.

Next step will be some components, will do some hunting and see what I can fit in there without too much trouble!

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Naka gear. Nice!! For your Sub, talk to Rogan about ID gear, the 10's really pack a decent punch. And you'll want to design the box to port through a speaker hole in the back parcel shelf if not both, because getting bass into the cabin is a mish!!!

I just installed a IDA-x001 into mine on the weekend. Its the tits! No more CD's, just 320kbs thanks.

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Right tried to remove the standard unit tonight but got caught. Unscrewed the little screws and slid the unit out, can see how it easy to unplug the arial but how to you get the rest out?

Can see how you slide the cover up as per the photo I took but cant seem to get it out further. Do I need to pull a bit harder? is there a clip or anything?

There isnt much slack in the cable at all so I cant really get around behind it. Dont want to scratch the AC unit.

Posted Image

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You need to pull it up even more. It's usually very tight - Use a big flathead screwdriver and lever it off (use some padding if you want to avoid scratches etc)

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BTW..you can buy adaptors for the plug & the aerial so you dont have to cut and join all the wiring. Then when you sell the car you can put the old head deck back in.

Try the guys in the instalation dept @ Parallel Imports in East Tamaki, they have a good range of adaptors

Edited by *Glenn*

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Thanks guys, will not be cutting the factory loom! Even if I have to cut a adaptor and hardwire to that.

Bit of a set back, the head unit doesnt have a loom so have to sort that first. Maybe get my money back or maybe find the part which might be tricky. I want this head deck so bad though! Looks mint in the dash.

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There's a few Naka fanboys on Ice bro.

I'll post it up for you: http://forums.nzicemag.co.nz/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=24336

very unique and probably not that easily available. Well you may find that a clarion loom may work, otherwise you may just have to hardwire it.

How much did you get it for out of interest?

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$200. Was real happy untill I found it had no loom, really nice condition. Probably my fault for not checking but Ive emailed him and will see what he says.

Cheers for posting up on NZice. Ive thought about joining and posting there but tbh I wouldnt really use the forums much.

What would you reccomend Pjay? How would you hardwire into the unit? Using bullet type connectors or something?

Cheers mate!

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Best man to talk to is a fellow named Dave or Deecee. He's quite a busy chap (working on his huge guns), but if you have MSN I can ask if he can add you and you guys can nut it out?

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Ring Eds (09) 550 7256. If anyone will have one, they will. They supply adapters to shops all over NZ (including DeeCee)

See if they have an ISO to Nakamichi adapter. If they do it'll be about $8-$10. You'll also need the BMW to ISO harness (might be part number PC2-05-4 )which might be a bit more. Then it's plug together and off you go. They don't have eftpos or take c/c, so cash or cheque only.

If you can't find a Naka harness, I think Kenwwod had a 14pin harness simliar to your one

PC2-05-4 looks like this

Posted Image

Headunit owners manual is here http://www.nakremotes.com/Geo/Nak%20CD-45z.pdf

Pin-out as follows (found this on the net, may or maynot be correct)

TOP

/-------------------------\

[ 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 ]

[ 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 ]

1.Blue = Remote on

2.Yellow = Battery

3.Red = ACC

4.Grey/blk = Frt R Spkr (-)

5.Grey = Frt R Spkr (+)

6.Purple/blk = Rear R Spkr (-)

7.Purple = Rear R Spkr (+)

8.Black = Ground (neg)

9.blank (not assigned)

10.Blue = Power Attenna

11.White/blk = Frt L Spkr (-)

12.White = Frt L Spkr (+)

13.Green/blk = Rear L Spkr (-)

14.Green = Rear L Spkr (+)

If you can't find a harness anywhere then look into the connectors used in computers. Have a look at this site http://stereophonik.com/gutterslide/IP-BUS_Hack/ which shows you the connectors I'm talking about.

Edited by rogan

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Get a pro to do it. No really I mean do get a pro.

I fitted a new head unit into my compact using an adapter and now my speakers in the door wont work.

Have heard this happens a lot when I did a search on this interweb thingy

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Cheers for that Rogan, Ill give them a call today.

Im pretty keen to give it a go myself. I think the main reasons the adaptors dont work is the amp that some e36s seem to have? I can't figure out if mine has one or not?

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Alrighty managed to get a Nakamichi to ISO then a ISO to BMW thanks to ebay so when that shows up ill put it in.

Now a quick question. How do I remove the centre console, no 1 in this drawing.. I've removed the ash trays, removed the screw in the back one but its still attached at the front. Whats the next step?

Im going to run the AUX input to the centre console so thinking about it might have to remove the shifter surround too...

Posted Image

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