Forrest 35 Report post Posted May 2, 2010 (edited) Okay so have cleaned AFM, Throttle Body, Throttle body plug, AFM Plug, ICV, ICV Plug and tightened all the vacume hoses and it starts fine for the moment but still idling at like 250rpm instead of like 500+. So will adjust the idle screw according to manual specs and see where we go from there. I am enjoying chasing this around the car haha. Another thought I had was maybe getting an air compressor around that area and seeing if I can blow any moisture out, if that is what is causing it. Edited May 2, 2010 by Hellpina Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pureboiracer 0 Report post Posted May 2, 2010 condensation in the compressed air will just cancel it out... best bet is to just let it dry naturally and see what happens. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forrest 35 Report post Posted May 2, 2010 Adjusted the idle screw on the TB from sub 500 to 750-950 on the rev counter as recommended by Haynes manual. Sounds so different and smoother at idle now (not like a bridgeported rotary lol) and we havn't had any stalling issues yet, hopefully I have sorted it. Now I wait and see.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pureboiracer 0 Report post Posted May 2, 2010 no rotary sound?? ohhh..... lol... good to know it idles now Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tire 10 Report post Posted May 2, 2010 (edited) The idle screw should not be used as a fix for poor idle when the problem is actually elsewhere. Maybe your idle screw had been tampered with in the past and you have just bought it back to what it should be (schweet), or maybe something elsewhere is wrong and you are compensating for it with the idle screw (unschweet). If you have set it like the manual says you must be all good, but I'm just putting it out there just in case. If you wind it on too much you will be running with the tps always activated = poor fuel consumption. When you open the throttle a smidge you should hear a light tick, and another tick when you close it again. See the Andrew Everett E30 resto bible which I think you have for more detail. Edited May 2, 2010 by tastic Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forrest 35 Report post Posted May 2, 2010 ^ Yip I have read that, followed it and I think I have sorted it now. Woo Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pureboiracer 0 Report post Posted May 2, 2010 DO A SKID!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tire 10 Report post Posted May 2, 2010 ^ Yip I have read that, followed it and I think I have sorted it now. Woo Glad to hear it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
huff3r 347 Report post Posted May 2, 2010 DO A SKID!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! What he said!!!! Dissapointed about the lack of rotary-esque pulsing though Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forrest 35 Report post Posted May 2, 2010 Okay so I adjusted it so its still clicking but only after the teeniest amount of throttle movement and clicking on the way back, and it is just back to around 500rpm idle, didn't stall so stoked, must have been hearing things lucky I re-checked it. Thanks Max Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pureboiracer 0 Report post Posted May 2, 2010 ^lol if mine drops below 900 it stalls..... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forrest 35 Report post Posted May 2, 2010 Can't do skids anymore since my LSD is wrapped in cotton wool now...no more clutch drops for me Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pureboiracer 0 Report post Posted May 2, 2010 dont drop the clutch then... 1st gear rolling, full lock, gas ON Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tire 10 Report post Posted May 2, 2010 Okay so I adjusted it so its still clicking but only after the teeniest amount of throttle movement and clicking on the way back, and it is just back to around 500rpm idle, didn't stall so stoked, must have been hearing things lucky I re-checked it. Thanks Max Sure, I'm mostly just reciting bits and pieces I've learned off Glenn . 500 is still too low though if you didn't already know. Oh and do what oli said Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pureboiracer 0 Report post Posted May 2, 2010 ^about 750 is optimum but hey aslong as it runs and doesnt stall or idle too high... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forrest 35 Report post Posted May 2, 2010 (edited) ^^ Yip, so now I need to find out how to raise it. I want to say and I think Haynes says my AFM needs to be recalibrated but I am unsure,..unless my rev counter is out though? Anyone know where to go next in terms of raising the idle? The car has brand new exhaust gaskets, vacuum hoses and all of the above work stated earlier in this thread. Edited May 2, 2010 by Hellpina Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pureboiracer 0 Report post Posted May 2, 2010 ^wind screw some more? or making your afm horizontal will help, as the flat wont be effected by gravity. or theres that adjustment screw on the afm Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forrest 35 Report post Posted May 2, 2010 ^ Yeah the adjustment screw in the AFM needs to be calibrated by someone with the right gear though, its no use me trying to fix it. Might try modifying my bracket for the AFM so it is horizontal as well then. The screw on the TB won't go any further without stopping the TPS switching on and off. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flake 0 Report post Posted May 2, 2010 (edited) i've still got the ICV from my m20 if you want to test yours for faults? it the straight through one, not the right angle type. might not be the same as yours being a PFL. edit: i also have my old AFM too Edited May 2, 2010 by flake Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pureboiracer 0 Report post Posted May 2, 2010 ummm. who would have "the right gear"? im guessing jeff gray... don know about anyone else tho. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forrest 35 Report post Posted May 14, 2010 (edited) Okay so I have driven a good 200km in the lead up to finally getting my car certed and noticed it isn't as 'fixed' as I thought it was. M20 B25 Mot. 1.1 It is initally idling at 500rpm, which for the car is too low, but it's about what it was since I have owned the car and I have had no troubles. It is now dropping, after idling normally after about 30sec down to 250rpm (ish) the whole car is shaking and then it just does that intermittently up and down between 200-600 rpm every 20-30sec. I first thought the vibration was the fact I installed urethane engine mounts but I don't think that is the case. Have also checked everything to do with: (AFM, TPS, ICV) and associated air leaks etc and there are none as previously mentioned. Did a brief search on E30 tech and E30 zone and does it look like my TPS is screwed/needs adjusting? Anyone know how to change it? Are all E30 TPS's the same because I have a spare off my old 316i I could try. Have also seen fuel pressure regulator mentioned? and also coolant temp sensor? Any other ideas. Any help on any of the above would be appreciated. It drives fine through the rev range just when idling it is really uncomfortable, especially in traffic. Also fuel consumption seems fine according to OBC at around 9.8l per 100k if that makes any diff. Cheers, Nath Edited May 14, 2010 by Hellpina Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pureboiracer 0 Report post Posted May 14, 2010 as far as i am aware they are the same... easy to adjust. want me to come round and have a look? i got nothing to do... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forrest 35 Report post Posted May 14, 2010 ^ I have to run for 75min soon so maybe not tonight, but I am free tomorrow + tomorrow night. Will send you a text tomorrow some time. P.S it got a cert, pick plates up Wed Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forrest 35 Report post Posted May 14, 2010 Bump, anyone? I unplugged the TPS and it idled better within a normal range 750rpm, does that show my TPS is buggered? Cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
APT 194 Report post Posted May 14, 2010 Hey nathan have you checked your FPR ? there should be a vacuum hose going to the intake manifold. and if its buggered you will see fuel coming out of the FPR side of the vacuum hose. Just a thought because that caused my car to idle bad. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
