mivtec 0 Report post Posted November 1, 2010 Ive got a e36 318is (auto) and started having transmission problems a couple of months ago. All gears work fine when cold, however, when its hot (after 20min of running) it slips. Runs fine when taking of from a stop, but slips when crawling, then accelerating. Obviously annoying and being a student im on a semi tight budget. Changed the oil, the old oil smelt burnt. So guessing the trans needs replacing Options I can think of is converting to a manual (would rather that anyway) - does any one know any where in Hamilton/Auckland areas that can do a drive in-out conversion? I know SD european do- but been told they charge quite a lot? Or anyone know of any where that can replace with a second hand box for a reasonable price? Not considering reconditioning the trans Cheers for any help! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
westy 614 Report post Posted November 1, 2010 Talk to Ray @ HellBM. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lucan 196 Report post Posted November 1, 2010 Ray does drive in - out manual conversions. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Si Vis Pacem Report post Posted November 1, 2010 Ive got a e36 318is (auto) and started having transmission problems a couple of months ago. All gears work fine when cold, however, when its hot (after 20min of running) it slips. Runs fine when taking of from a stop, but slips when crawling, then accelerating. Obviously annoying and being a student im on a semi tight budget. Changed the oil, the old oil smelt burnt. So guessing the trans needs replacing Options I can think of is converting to a manual (would rather that anyway) - does any one know any where in Hamilton/Auckland areas that can do a drive in-out conversion? I know SD european do- but been told they charge quite a lot? Or anyone know of any where that can replace with a second hand box for a reasonable price? Not considering reconditioning the trans Cheers for any help! I have a very similar issue with a Ti. Assuming this is a GM auto, apart from changing the filter and the ATF there is a band tensioner adjustment which I believe is supposed to be checked with each filter change. You get to it by removing the main pan and the filter then the pressed steel dome (3 bolts) at the back of the sump area. The adjuster is a hex (internal) bolt with a locknut. The instructions are to back the adjuster right off and re-tighten it to 40 in/lb, i.e. not very much.(All thanks to Will for the above bit of info'. The old-timers here will know who I'm talking about. ) Having said all that, it didn't work on my car so am now replacing the box. As for manual conversion, do call Ray at HellBM, very reasonable. HTH Ken. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
