Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
BlowMyWhistle

Loctite...

Recommended Posts

Breaking bolts.

I decided to change my water pump e34 M60, pretty straight forward. Bought the pump,looked up a DIY.

Left it to go back to work for 2 weeks.

had the biggest mish taking the fan off it, just couldn't get that nut undone... $70 for a mobile mechanic and his pneumatic chisel, all of 15 minutes grrr!

So started on the 8 bolts around the balancer, pretty tight, managed to 'pop' the torque on 2 of them, the third one broke the head off the bolt!!!

So now it's a shop job, looking very expensive, I guesstimate no change from $500? gunner have to tap out the bolt!

It's gunner be a mish getting at it, either take the front out of the car, or take the engine out (or find a mechanic with a rubber neck)

Seems like they've locktite'd these bolts in?

I'm gunner have to put it on a trailer, (or maybe a truck cos I cbf) and get it into the shop.

Gunner get my headlights and driving lights replaced at the same time! There's a couple of pulleys with some playn in them, so may as well replace them too, looking at closer to $1000 now.

Don't mind paying for maintenance, but damage and breakage grr me to hell and back, i do try and be careful; taking on jobs myself to save a $... And I don't even know if it was the water pump, I just decided to replace it anyway...

Has anyone ever tried tapping a bolt out of the crank in situ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You don't need to take the front pulley of an M60 to do a waterpump. You won't have to pull the engine to fit a new crank flange either.

Did you know that the viscous coupling nut (32m) is a LH thread ??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Did you know that the viscous coupling nut (32m) is a LH thread ??

Haha yeah.. I know someone who snapped the snout off their water pump because they were trying to do it the wrong way.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You don't need to take the front pulley of an M60 to do a waterpump. You won't have to pull the engine to fit a new crank flange either.

Did you know that the viscous coupling nut (32m) is a LH thread ??

I got the coupling off, and yeah I knew it was a reverse thread. My DIY instructions said to pull the bottom pulley, or balancer off it.

Kinda have to to get at the lower bolt on the water pump.

"8 bolts, and give it a tap with a mallet" Now those aren't reverse thread are they?

Someone's gunner have to tap a bolt out the front of the crankshaft, and access is gunner be a mish.

I've done enough damage now, I'm putting my hand in my pocket and taking it to the shop.

I go back to work in a few days, and will pick it up in 2 weeks when it's finished.

My xmas overtime should cover most of it...

I'll take it to Andy at beemer Motor Workshop, He knows a few tricks, The German Master mechanic here is pretty expensive and more 'by the book', and he's closer to the airport...

But if there's an easier way, i can change the pump out, please share!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...