decebal 0 Report post Posted February 10, 2012 Car was in a garage for two days to get a mag wheel repaired after someone took their tow bar to it. When I picked up the car after hours, the service engine soon light came on and stayed on (no flashing or anything). Nothing abnormal with the car otherwise, no idle issues or loss of power. Pretty sure it's unrelated to the repair it got, just seems like a weird coincidence that it happened right then. I haven't had a chance to talk to garage since it's Friday night. Anyway looking for someone in Wellington region that might have a OBD tool to run a diagnostic test in exchange for a box of beer or cash. Running this as an alternative before I go to a BMW mechanic. I already checked the usual easies like fuel cap being loose, etc. Since I'm here...weird thing that is happening, when my boot gets slammed the electric boot unlock button doesn't work anymore and the rear lights warning light comes on. I took the boot unlock/plate lights thing apart and everything worked, put it back together and voila no more lights and boot unlock works. But now and again it does it again, and what I have to do is open the boot, push the button a few times till it works and gently close the boot and it starts to work again and warning light disappears. Any ideas to what it might be? Maybe the wiring?? Thanks in advance for the help! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted February 10, 2012 The check engine light coming on may, or may not be related to the repairs. A scan and check will determine that. The problem in the rear with your lock and lights will probably be broken wiring inside the harness on the R/H side of the boot lid where it goes into the body by the boot hinge. Repairing the wiring will only be a temporary fix. You will need to get new wires fitted into the hinged area. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
decebal 0 Report post Posted February 23, 2012 The check engine light coming on may, or may not be related to the repairs. A scan and check will determine that. The problem in the rear with your lock and lights will probably be broken wiring inside the harness on the R/H side of the boot lid where it goes into the body by the boot hinge. Repairing the wiring will only be a temporary fix. You will need to get new wires fitted into the hinged area. Ran diagnostics and faulty coil for #3 cylinder and also faulty cam shaft sensor. Looking at parts they quoted me a stupid amount from BMW. Mike at Parts Plus (Powerhaus) in Wellington said $115 for coil and $260 for cam sensor + GST.. However I saw these on trademe, apparently Bosch and come with warranty...any thoughts?? http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-...n-451563155.htm - for coil http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-...n-449790041.htm - for cam OR http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-...n-451334193.htm Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Allanw 1071 Report post Posted February 23, 2012 I've never had any problems with Paul at Milland, or his parts. Have probably spent $2500 in the last 2 years (on dads E30 and our E39). I don't think he sells any crap stuff (some places do!) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cliffdunedin 8 Report post Posted February 23, 2012 I've never had any problems with Paul at Milland, or his parts. I second that, Paul's pretty good, all OEM products too...he's also a member on here von rip snorter or something like that! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
decebal 0 Report post Posted February 23, 2012 I second that, Paul's pretty good, all OEM products too...he's also a member on here von rip snorter or something like that! That's awesome good to hear! He sells the camshaft sensor for $110 with 2 year guarantee etc..and BMW for almost $400..what a joke. Do you guys reckon I need the plug for the sensor too (like in the other sensor auction)? Is it good practice to replace that with the sensor? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted February 23, 2012 That's awesome good to hear! He sells the camshaft sensor for $110 with 2 year guarantee etc..and BMW for almost $400..what a joke. Do you guys reckon I need the plug for the sensor too (like in the other sensor auction)? Is it good practice to replace that with the sensor? The first cam sensor is for exhaust with no loom & plug, the second is for inlet with loom & plug attached. You need to know which is faulty from the scanner and replace the appropriate sensor with a new "O" ring. Clear fault codes & adaptions, road test and recheck. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
decebal 0 Report post Posted February 24, 2012 The first cam sensor is for exhaust with no loom & plug, the second is for inlet with loom & plug attached. You need to know which is faulty from the scanner and replace the appropriate sensor with a new "O" ring. Clear fault codes & adaptions, road test and recheck. Thanks Glenn..rechecked codes and need the exhaust camshaft sensor. I ordered a new one and the coil, will try, clear and retest. Thanks again for your help! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted February 24, 2012 When coils fail on these motors it is best to change all of the coils. You will probably find you'll end up doing one after the other. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Allanw 1071 Report post Posted February 24, 2012 The coils are SOOOO cheap too! Jap ones usually cost way more! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites