Gus 5 Report post Posted June 28, 2005 the wiring seems to be different...any one got any tips? havnt connected it all yet...anything i should know beforei go ahead? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gmccormack 0 Report post Posted June 28, 2005 Which part of the wiring looks different? If you are replacing the whole engine bay loom including the ECU plug you shouldn't have any problems. If both your engine loom and car loom use the round firewall mounted plug it will all just snap together. Some of the wiring colours ( but not pin placement ) were changed over the production run, is that what you ment by "looks different" Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
topless 13 Report post Posted June 28, 2005 Gus, it is not difficult. Mike(323e30 on this forum) has recently done it and is closer to you than i am. Get hold of him. jetronic to motronic is actually a simple conversion. I am coming to Akl maybe this weekend so if you are not successful getting hold of him give me a yell. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gus 5 Report post Posted June 28, 2005 its motronic to motronic i thought it might be as much, just changing the colour of the wires from pre FL -> FL.....the round connecter snaps straight in, and am using the loom from old car so that all good.....engine in, on mounts, just needs to be wired up and attempted to start...will try take some vid of the manifold off if it works Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Andrew Report post Posted June 28, 2005 Which part of the wiring looks different? If you are replacing the whole engine bay loom including the ECU plug you shouldn't have any problems. If both your engine loom and car loom use the round firewall mounted plug it will all just snap together. Some of the wiring colours ( but not pin placement ) were changed over the production run, is that what you ment by "looks different" yeah we used the loom of the m325 motor and the ECU - the only thing that didn't match up was the round plug - it clips in - but colors and some locations are different. Like there are 11 on the engine loom plug and 14 in the car plug. The F/L 325 motor had 16 in its engine plug. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bumpstop325 0 Report post Posted June 28, 2005 motronic 1.1 loom with motronic 1.3 motor??? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Andrew Report post Posted June 29, 2005 motronic 1.1 loom with motronic 1.3 motor??? no - we took OUT the motronic 1.3 motor and put in a 1.1 motor with its 1.1 loom. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gmccormack 0 Report post Posted June 29, 2005 (edited) Only four wires need to be connected to start and run. Pin 1 black (alternator) Pin 7 green (coil) Pin 13 green/violet or green/white depending on the year (fuel pump relay) Pin 18 black/yellow (starter) The other wires are just for the gauges and warning lights.(they are also the ones I have found the most colour changes in) The extra wires in the plug are often for options that may or may not have been fitted to either your car or the car the engine came from. eg ABS, airbag, aircon etc. The wires for those options are routed out through the engine bay plug so they can connect to the diagnostic plug. Edited June 29, 2005 by gmccormack Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gus 5 Report post Posted June 29, 2005 graeme i love you......have so far got it cranking, and fairly sure fuel is happening too...just no spark...will give that a go tomorrow...only other major prob im running into is the cooling system....havin to use pre FL expansion tank, but doesnt work well with FL radiator...also wont be able to run a fan....but will have a look in morn when havnt been working on car for 14 hours straight. looking forward to getting some spark Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gus 5 Report post Posted June 29, 2005 actually just checked my wiring comparisons.....both have green on a 7......any other reason for no spark.....i think it might have something to do with ground/power connections somewhere....morning! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
topless 13 Report post Posted June 29, 2005 No spark= most obvious is no voltage at the coil. Check for 12v. Also remove the HT lead from the coil at the distributor and check that spark is getting out of the coil to the distributor. Possible you have damaged the distributor cap or rotor during the transplant and losing the spark in the distributor to ground. The next to check is the motronic unit needs to get a crankshaft position signal from the sensor. If it doesn't get this it won't start. I take it you have a single sensor on the crankshaft pulley at the front of the motor? (I'm not sure of the difference here between Motronic 1.3 and 1.1). If so it needs to have a resistance of 540ohms +/- 40ohms across the terminals. Also check that it is properly seated in its clip. It needs to be close to the teeth on the pulley to get the pulses from the teeth, approx 1mm gap from the face to the pulley. If you have 2 sensors on the bellhousing, and removed them during the transplant, possibly have put them back in the wrong position. The reference sensor should have a grey plug where it connects to the loom and should go in the hole marked B on the bellhousing. Good luck... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gus 5 Report post Posted June 29, 2005 cheers will no sensor on the crankshaft pulley at front of motor....it gets the reference sensors from the bellhousing.....im 99% sure they in the right positions (compared to andys engine) but i might swap em round and check dizzy rotor and cap def fine....were not on the engine during swap regardless i need to change the waterpump and some other bits over..need to use the face lift cooling system..bit of a bitch but not too bad..looks like fuel rail as well.... considering changing from motronic 1.1 to 1.3....heard its quite good..however will see how things go today Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Andrew Report post Posted June 29, 2005 I take it you have a single sensor on the crankshaft pulley at the front of the motor? (I'm not sure of the difference here between Motronic 1.3 and 1.1). If so it needs to have a resistance of 540ohms +/- 40ohms across the terminals. Also check that it is properly seated in its clip. It needs to be close to the teeth on the pulley to get the pulses from the teeth, approx 1mm gap from the face to the pulley. The right power and gnd cables are going to the coil - And gus you should be able to measure that resistance from the diagnostic connector - pins in the bentleys manual. no sensor on the crankshaft pulley at front of motor....it gets the reference sensors from the bellhousing.....im 99% sure they in the right positions (compared to andys engine) but i might swap em round and check Yes there is - its that big disc with the magnet in it. There are also 2 sensors in the gearbox. The Motronic 1.3 motor has the spikey disc thing and a different kind of sensor. Why change the fuel rail? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gus 5 Report post Posted June 30, 2005 gonna change the whole loom over..its not actually looking that hard....not 100% sure about fuel rail just yet....gonna have a looksie shortly Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
