Ahmedsinc 414 Report post Posted April 19, 2013 Unit has good features , the high pass filters and time alignment settings will be useful . DVC sub will be fine. For $300 two pairs of Bostons is up there eh. I doubt they will dissapoint when paying entry split level price I have a boston spg555 sub going into my build Btw , check out this this link for some ideas. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/top...lium-bmw-323ci/ The solid copper ties for the subs was a nice touch Must be nearly as much power in the boot as under the hood!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kingkarl 136 Report post Posted April 19, 2013 I've had a think about it and the DVC that's on the way is perfect really. The 2 ohm load will have the amp producing 250RMS which is the subs max anyway. 4 ohm @ 300 W is 50 above the subs recommendation so its spot on @ 2 ohm bridged. Unit has good features , the high pass filters and time alignment settings will be useful . DVC sub will be fine. For $300 two pairs of Bostons is up there eh. I doubt they will dissapoint when paying entry split level price I have a boston spg555 sub going into my build Btw , check out this this link for some ideas. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/top...lium-bmw-323ci/ That is one impressive sub! I can easily see how this car audio thing becomes like an addiction. So much cool sh*t to buy and so many options to set it up how you want. As Matt said above, the copper looks so sharp. That man has a talent for turning inane bits into master crafts. The final result of this is insane: Email this fella: [email protected] or txt O21O761465 He was selling 3 Boston amps on nzicemag in the last week but think he sold the GT40 for about $180. See what he's got left Cheers mate, the pioneer is in the post and I think it's what I'm after. I appreciate your help Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MD13 494 Report post Posted April 19, 2013 Not sure that amp is 2ohm stable when bridged though... Specs only mention 4ohm bridged: Amp Or am I looking at the wrong amp? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kingkarl 136 Report post Posted April 19, 2013 Not sure that amp is 2ohm stable when bridged though... Specs only mention 4ohm bridged: Amp Or am I looking at the wrong amp? Nah you're onto it. Yeah those specs are pretty vague. I looked at the online manual and found this page: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rogan 7 Report post Posted April 20, 2013 That amp is only stable at 4ohms bridged so DVC4 won't work that well Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Neal 544 Report post Posted April 20, 2013 (edited) How are people reading the last paragraph in the left hand side above. I read this as bridge mode and 2 ohm capable. Otherwise , could be run in stereo mode with each voice coil on it's own channel. Edited April 20, 2013 by Neal Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kingkarl 136 Report post Posted April 20, 2013 (edited) The diagram above labelled as 'proper' has 2x 4 ohm speakers wired in parallel. From what I can gather, a 4ohm DVC with voice coils wired in parallel is the same as the 2x 4 ohm speakers in parallel, shown in the manual (2 ohm impedance). If these effectively are the same circuit and generate the same impedance where is my issue? Does the line "To properly install or used a bridge mode and achieve a 2ohm load, wire two 4 ohm speakers in parallel...." Replace 'speakers' with voice coils and is the answer obvious. Excuse me if this makes no sense/is off hand... 1am on a Sunday Edited April 20, 2013 by kingkarl Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rogan 7 Report post Posted April 20, 2013 I think that's just a general wiring diagram. I can't see where the amp says it's 2 ohm stable bridged, nor do I know of any Pioneer 2 or 4 channel amp that has been in the past. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kingkarl 136 Report post Posted April 20, 2013 (edited) I think that's just a general wiring diagram. I can't see where the amp says it's 2 ohm stable bridged, nor do I know of any Pioneer 2 or 4 channel amp that has been in the past. Isn't that what the bits in green are saying though? I'm not sure it'd be a general wiring diagram when it was found in my amp's specific manual. That'd be like including a guide to caring for the clutch in a car with an auto box. This specific amp is 1 ohm stable unbridged (4x 1 ohm) so then if you were to bridge it within its bounds you must double the impedance (min 2x 2ohm) so as not to double the average power per channel being drawn from it. Edited April 20, 2013 by kingkarl Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MD13 494 Report post Posted April 20, 2013 Yeah I can read that and interpret it as saying both 2ohm stable bridged and not... Confusing! I found this at crutchfield - AMP That states it is 2ohm stable bridged. The thing I find odd about that is it quotes less power for 2ohm output than for 4ohm... Isn't it usually the other way around (see below for quote)? 300 watts RMS x 2 bridged at 4 ohms (250 watts RMS x 2 bridged at 2 ohms) Short story though appears to be that the amp will power your sub. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kingkarl 136 Report post Posted May 5, 2013 She's all installed and sounds just as I had hoped. Total time to get it all finished was around 13 hours. Most of that time was spent scratching my head and trying to figure the best way to get it all put together. These must the easiest cars in the world to wire up. Battery in the rear seat makes it incredibly easy and there is already a perfectly sized hole in the back seat panel for all the wires. All the crossovers sit under the rear seat and the amp is in the boot. The 5.25" components all fit perfectly into the factory spots (hallelujah). The front tweeters also sit in the factory location on the dash and the rear ones sit next to the mids in the factory panels. The head unit looks nice and fits well with the interior design/dash lights. It's not as simple to use as I had hoped but on the plus side the tweaks you can make to the settings are endless. The components sound incredible (to my untrained ears anyway). They are too powerful for the sub as it will cut well before they sound even close to distorting. The gear in the boot is far from tidy but I wasn't interested in spending much more time on it. It serves a purpose its not as if that space is a showpiece anyway. Heres some shitty photos taken in low light: Rear components... Dusty, I know. Rear components with cover ( flash makes it look way worse than it is) Sub and amp. The sub sits the otherway round, I turned it around for the photo. amp Total cost: Headunit: $179 Sub (shipped): $140 Amp (shipped): $340 Wiring: $70 Compents (shipped) $310 Sub box (shipped) $55 Total: $1094 Thanks to everyone who offered advice. You've saved me lots of time/money Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MD13 494 Report post Posted May 5, 2013 Sweet! Install looks pretty tidy to me Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Neal 544 Report post Posted May 5, 2013 Well done. Nice tidy install. The Boston get better / smoother sounding after 20 hours or so of music run in. You've end up with a lot of stereo for $1100 ! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
