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Neal

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Neal last won the day on July 17 2020

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About Neal

  • Rank
    5th Gear
  • Birthday June 4

Previous Fields

  • Name
    Neal
  • Location
    Wellington
  • Car
    E46 M3 SMG
  • Mods List
    http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/40554-e46-m3-stereo-build/
  • Car 2
    1275 Turbo Mini

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Car audio, BWM Car Club , club sport

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  1. That would work if your not doing middle position. From memory the foam that sits on the parcel shelf and deck is pre cut. Would just need to lift the section out . It would be tight though. The isofix bracket sits in the foam section rectangle at the back in this picture the bracket has a claw that fits into a small hole and then uses a cap screw to fasten.
  2. I’ve done the retro fit on my e46 M3 a number of years ago. I originally brought the brackets of trademe but it was minus the covers. I ended up ordering the retrofit kit via BMW NZ dealer. install is straight forward. Worst part for me was carefully cutting the parcel shelf. Other than that it does take time to remove the rear parcel shelf on a e46. Rear seat side bolsters need removing and. C pillar trims and then top half of rear set before you can start removing the clips holding on the shelf . Then headrests and speaker covers
  3. Just seen this video on another thread .😬 Cringe worthy
  4. He did start with building the e46 / e39 connectors so worth an email. It might be possible that bmw carried the amp connector into the next models. Below is the harness / adapter btw , if looking at Morel check out parts-express. They sell the individual drivers with good discounts. Some models have great off axis response which is important on the drivers side speakers. https://www.parts-express.com/brand/morel/121
  5. for minimising speaker and HU cabling have a look at technics bmw harnesses . The guy reverse engineered the quad lock connector that sits in the amp . So basically his connector has rca and speaker wire hanging off it which means you can fit a small form factor amp in its place with minimal wiring effort so you can leave the cabin alone.. If your up for class D then heat is of little worry and 60wx4 rms will only need 8 gauge power and earth makking the battery run easy. The bmw e46 has a good gauge of wire on the mid bass speakers so no need to add fav 12 /14 gauge ofc. Sub,. As part of your research in terms of space . iB subs have come back to fashion and require minimal room . But also consider running passive radiators as the boxes end up small and there is no port noise. As a consideration iIm looking in a boom box project for the daughter using a Tan Ban w5 sub. Basically it only needs 20cm cube and can play down to the high 30hz. Q can be changed a bit by adding washers to its passive radiators . https://toidsdiyaudio.com/2020/02/06/mini-earthquake-an-8-cube-of-bass/
  6. Just doing a renewal on insurance for my E46 M3. It’s a 2002 SMG with almost every option and sits at 175k. It’s had BMW servicing since I brought i48k. Insurance company suggests $28k but I suspect it should be mid to high 30s What are others insuring theirE46 M3s for ?
  7. I think you’d be right , more hp and torque form the later especially and far more refinement. Issue with a daily is that Id end up with an m3 , a Motorsport project and a track day motorcycle limited edition motorcycle and probably would have to make some hard choices with parting with one of them. Not a bad problem to have but probably like many a classic bmw in great condition will come along and challenge status quo.
  8. I had conti sports contacts on the front of my e46 m3 . Size was 225 /45 R18 on a 8 inch front. On the e46 they had the best front steering and great feel. I’ve since run 235 fronts in Bridgestone re11 and Michelin PSS and whilst these have more grip the turn in and feel imho was better with the conti. Worth putting on your list and in 17inch friendly sizes
  9. I’m kinda caught, had a e46 m3 for last 9 years, no idea what I’d replace it with other than getting another low km one. I’ve deliberately avoided f80 m3s as suspect a drive would lead to a Mpulse decision to buy.
  10. Neal

    Quick Questions

    I ran yokos 509s in 195/65/14 on my e30 323i years back. They are an old design but were the best of the many tires I had in the 270,000 kms I drove it.
  11. It’s similar as in quadlock pin system but connector is larger and terminates with the boot. Dogballs post is on the money.
  12. Seems stuff via Asia is taking around 3 weeks. Ordered some essential service items for work with expedited shipping. We’d normal get this type of kit in 4-5 days. Different orders have taken 3 weeks. Part of the issue is NZ, some courier yards have become gridlocked with items beyond the warehouse and sitting in shipping containers waiting on the backlog to clear. NZ post has record volume levels as well. i think getting items quickly out of lockdown countries will be problematic for a while as with NZ returning to normal
  13. Sorry you did say you’d got the kenwood. Time alignment made a big difference in my system. Easier to centre music. With the kenwood what about running a USB ( if it has a rear one) to an ashtray dock) Location works well for hand free calls. Below if for iPhone but easy to put a phone cable instead https://www.instructables.com/id/Ashtray-iPhoneiPod-Dock/ amp mounting works well on the side of the boot. I’d be worried about underseat as I ran my alpine front amp that way. The power cable became shorted out by feet of rear passenger. There was a bit of smoke as a result. Since that I’ve only done boot installs and made sure power areas into amps are well protected. 4 gauge is good for a dangerous 120amps before a typical slow blow fuse will go.
  14. The early alpine stuff can easily overwhelm the factory alternator / electrics which is what I found with a multi amped setup in an e30.People are into 80/90s class ab nostalgia but I found that my old high end PG amps (e36 system) that the likes of modern sound stream ( Philip board actually) had similar sound quality at 1/3 red the price. Reminds me I still have my amps and equaliser from my late 80s system. Reminds me that I should sell these at some stage. Modern amps so much better, psu’s are far more efficient and they have every kind of protection and modern smd components means the old days of matching components is almost gone in relation to car audio. Anyway , this stuff is IMHO. I like your idea of running active up front. Just put a capacitor across the tweeter to protect it from accidents in tuning or setting crossovers. It the unit has speaker out only open it up and mod it. Grab the audio stage after the OPamps or preamp transistors and put some RCAs out the back . Should give you a cleaner audio section and get the best out of those tdk90s which from memory handed the heat better than maxwells and did a reasonable transfer. Speaker choice is a very personal thing and knowing your standards nothing really to add other than if I were to replace mine and one lotto I’d put Focal utopias into mine. With Angs CX-5 I’m looking to put https://stereointegrity.com/product/tm65-6-5-woofer/ and matching tweeter in. This brand is one guy who designs speakers with amazing mechanical abilities which punch well above there price tag and a few top end comp Hilfi cars are running these. Power wise looks like your heading to towards 4 gauge cables for the amp(s) Amp power on could be as simple as connecting to your power antenna . Just check the operation of the head unit to ensure antenna stays up in tape mode. This was the brand of distribution block that I showed you. Nice as small profile. Might have got mine via trade me. http://www.tspeconline.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=5 sub wise I’ve go a box calculator bass box pro so if you find the sub too boomy we could design a box with a bass q more to your liking. Could build something that bolts up to the ski pass area and punch out the panel. Bass will fire straight thought back seat cushion on e30s. other thing I did on my e30 was put the biggest battery that would fit in the front (mine was 323i) Other thing to consider is doing the big three which is to put a larger gauge alternator charging wire and bigger earth cable. Helps with electric stress and light dimming if pounding the system. For the rears speakersI run mine at -30db compared to front. I still feed mine with a 100rms but head unit ( warning , running head unit amp for rears can cause ground loops sometimes) or a micro class d amp. Sub wise go class D simply to give the car electrics an easier time. My current combo of 4x100 ab with 1x600d doesn’t kill the charging system and battery voltage in the way my 4x25rms (cough) PG amp with bridge rear channels run sub did. ( mind you that amp peaked at 95 amps at 13.8volts) so someone was lying about its modest power output.
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