5spd manual conversion on my e30

[bravo 35]

Yup - its actually gonna happen - manual in the 320.

Got a family member who was going to auckland to pick up my g/b with all associated parts for manual conv. this afternoon.

So jacked up the car and out with the exhaust and driveshaft. Will get onto removal of auto tomorrow probably.

Starting this thread because I know I'm going to have lots of qu's and trying to keep them in one place.

First one: Can anyone find the torque wrench thread for me (I can't) - my ones fooked and so I need a new one for this project.

Second one: Can anyone find one of the exhaust threads - while its out I may aswell remove the cat and throw a couple of coby's in.

Third one: Where is the best place to purchase the following: Spigot bearing, Slave cylinder, master cylinder repair kit, clutch repair kit (disc, press. plate and release bearing), clutch alignment tool, shift lever, flexible joint on driveshaft (its pretty much had it), gearbox mounts - they're toast - totally split in half - box was just sitting on them - not held in at all!

Cheers.

[dave 2]

gus here. i got daved

most of stuff will prob have to come from dealer, try a few US sights, may be cheaper but factor in shipping.

torque wrench? pft. you dont need one

Edited October 2, 2005 by Gus

[nz320i 0]

hey bravo, are you doing the conversion by just jacking your car with normal jacks or have you access to a workshop? cheers, just wondering if ill need access to workshop when i do mine or not

[petone 0]

Heaps of that stuff you can get at BNT, they give discount for BMW club members as well.

Hoist is ideal but even a pit is really good, maybe a mate has one in a garage? If not you'll just have to get the car as high as you can, some stuff under there is done up quite tight and you might need room to use a strong arm.

[bravo 35]

Huge dirt floor garage jacked up as high as I can with blocks, cast-iron axle stands etc underneath. Raised whole vehicle about half a metre - so far enough room. Considered digging a shallow pit with the tractor first, but couldn't be bothered - hope I don't regret it.

BNT just opened in Kerikeri last week and my dad opened an account so I'll be paying him a visit to purloin that. I went in there on Saturday and they were talking approx $400 odd for clutch repair kit. Carls thread lists OEM price at $460, so not a huge saving.

[petone 0]

I thought they were cheaper than that from BNT, I've been quoted $300 i think, and you can pick em up even cheaper than that if you shop around.

[topless 13]

Auto Clutch Ltd

20 Morningside Drive, Kingsland, Auckland.

Rebuilder and importer of clutches (including performance type) and water  pumps.

20% discount to clubmembers.

Ph: Brett or David, 09 849 3737. Email [email protected]. Website: http://www.clutch.co.nz/

I bought from these guys, discount to BMW club members, were really helpful and price was good after discount, and they will ship to you.

[nz320i 0]

Hey does anyone have a drive shaft for sale to fir in a facelift coupe as ive found a gearbox and probably buying it this week, alos found a guy who is having my auto in return for putting the manual in for me!!

[bravo 35]

New questions:

1. Does anyone know what size the torx-head bolts holding the g/b to the bell housing are - I want to go buy an appropriate sized socket.

2. Carls how-to shows the auto being removed with the torque-converter still attached to the flywheel. Rv3limited's one removes the torque converter with the g/b. Which is easiest to do?

3. The g/b I've got has the bracket-type shift selector. Can I convert this to the aluminium arm-type, or do I just install it as-is into the car? How does this affect my z3 shifter conversion.

4. The flexible joint on my driveshaft is badly cracked. Has anyone got the part no. for this?

Thanks all.

[nz320i 0]

hey bravo just wondered where you got your parts from, im in need of a 2nd hand clutch and flywheel?? i got a box but it was 500 bucks! so might wait a week or two before i spend up on the rest of the parts!

[petone 0]

f**k for 5 hundy better be a mint box.

Just buy a clucth kit from BNT, around $350 - included clutch disc, pressure plate, and bearing. Don't even bother putting a second hand clutch in. Also get recon kits for your master and slave, about $50 for both? Trust me on this one.

Have you asked the wreckers down here for prices on bits?

Bravo-wouldn't worry about your bracket type, z3 shifter still works fine. Carl posted up on how to do it. Have search for it.

Edited October 4, 2005 by petone

[bem-on 0]

Cris have you talked to Ray yet? it might pay to give him a call, he's the dude Bravo got his conversion kit from. the dudes that Topless is talking about quoted me $336.00 for a new clutch kit, Plus Flywheel Spigot Bearing $6.03. then you will have to sort out your own flywheel that they will stone grind for $45.oo. are you buying it from Tony? if so you will also need the master and slave cylinders plus all the little bits.

good luck bro

Edited October 4, 2005 by bem-on

[nz320i 0]

i got a bit unluck with the gearbox but its meant to be all good, got lucky when pete at euro wreck said hel swap my auto in return for him to put the box in my car for me

Thank either pete from euro wreck here is selling my everything else, or ill wait a month or so and buy new clutch and flywheel.

It still all a bit over my head so trying to understand everything i just want to get the most from my money on this!!!!

[nz320i 0]

so how much would a clutch and flywheel be? like i want it real cheap as not going to be doing burnouts etc all the time or drifting but dont want something dirt cheap, but in saying that ive been looking 2nd hand

[bravo 35]

New questions:

1.  Does anyone know what size the torx-head bolts holding the g/b to the bell housing are - I want to go buy an appropriate sized socket.

2. Carls how-to shows the auto being removed with the torque-converter still attached to the flywheel.  Rv3limited's one removes the torque converter with the g/b.  Which is easiest to do?

3.  The g/b I've got has the bracket-type shift selector.  Can I convert this to the aluminium arm-type, or do I just install it as-is into the car?  How does this affect my z3 shifter conversion.

4.  The flexible joint on my driveshaft is badly cracked.  Has anyone got the part no. for this?

Thanks all.

Answered a few of my own myself.

1. Don't know, but I purloined a set from a mate who runs a tyre shop, so prob solved. For those of you doing this there are two sizes. One holding the g/b bumpstop/bottom plate over the torque converter to the g/b bellhousing, and a larger size holding the g/b to the motor.

Also you witll need about 18in of extensions, and I'd recommend 1/2" drive as the bolts were pretty tight. A universal may come in handy due to the angles involved. I dropped the g/b as much as I could and I still had to put the torx socket on the bolt by hand (lucky I've got small arms) and then feed the driver onto it as torx don't feed well into sockets. (I didn't have a universal)

2. Remove the torque converter with the g/b if you can - it is easire to remove the g/b if you do as it struggles to fit out otherwise. by removing the g/b with the torque conv. still inside I was able to leave the dipstick attached as the bolt holding this on is hard to reach. Just be aware the auto is a heavy bitch and the torque converter is really heavy too, so it's a bloody mission to get it out by yourself - I enlisted help from a mate to make things easier.

The torque converter can be a nasty whore to get off the spigot. I used a screwdriver to rotate the flywheel to access the three bolts holding it to the flywheel, then used a pinch bar, hammer, larger screwwdriver, CRC and a fair bit of swearing to pop it out. But it was worth it in the end I think.

3. Thanks mike - I'll have a look.

Other advice: MAKE SURE YOU REMOVE THE THROTTLE CONTROL CABLE AT THE MOTOR END BEFORE DROPPING THE G/B ON YOUR CHEST. Because it is f**king heavy and once there is tension on the cable there is no way you can detach it - that is if you can raise the g/b again so you can crawl out from under the car. Somehow I forgot about this - luckily I had previously mentioned mate nearby and he was ble to undo the bolts on the bracket for the adjustment part of the cable and then get enough slack to disconnect it.

So old g/b is out - tonight I'm swapping flywheels and that'l be about it because I'm going to my sisters 17th. Ordering new clutch etc today, so will keep you all posted.

BTW I paid $750 for my conversion kit. It simply worked out cheaper than trying to find a donor car. But did at least include more than just the g/b. Also, slave cylinders are only about $75, so instead of repairing it, buy a new one and a master cyl repair kit.

Edited October 4, 2005 by bravomikewhiskey

[bravo 35]

so how much would a clutch and flywheel be?

Get a 2nd hand flywheel - no idea of the cost (get the guy who is supplying the g/b to give you one maybe) I was quoted $343incl. for my clutch kit from euroitalian in Auckland. I ordered a shitload of other parts and he is cutting me a slight discount, so don't know what I actually going to end up paying.

[nz320i 0]

cool , the guy is looking for the flywheel b4 he sends me the g/box hope its there! should i buy my clutch kit and cylinders from the same place euroitalian you think? thanks

[bravo 35]

There's bound to be someone closer to you. I went to euroitalian because I was recommended them, and they were priced very much the same as SD European and one other place I rang. Probably not the cheapest, but I like to shop at places that have been recommended to me as they usually provide better service.

If you go to euro italian, the guy's name is Gavin and he is heaps of help, knows what he is about and was able to give me some good advice regarding what I was doing. Say Graham from Paihia gave you his name and he may give you a better price since I've just spent a big wad with him.

09-4449817

Parts should arrive tomorrow - yay!

[nz320i 0]

hey what are you telling your insurance co etc as its changed trans? my dad is trying to tell me it will need compliance and crap but i doubt i need to???

[petone 0]

as long as its all factory/or equivalent parts then you don't need to. (Sorry- doesn't apply to engine swaps etc)

Its when you get into custom bits and peices that you need to worry about it.

edit, would still tell insurance though.

Edited October 6, 2005 by petone

[bravo 35]

I'm going to tell them. Just so there's no argument later on. Won't affect my insurance - my auto died, was more economical to replace with manual as they cost less in the long run. The fact I was planning to do it eventually anyway is irrelevant.

[bravo 35]

Update:

1. Removed flex disc from engine and installed flywheel.

2. Installed metal clutch line that snakes along firewall.

3. Installed clutch reservoir.

4. Installed new pedals. I didn't bother switching pedal boxes - I just removed the bolt holding the brake pedal on, and used the longer bolt from the manual pedal box and installed the pedals in. Saved alot of hassle removing and reinstalling the pedal box.

I have discovered I am short a couple of things.

If anyone can help me with these so I don't have to buy new ones I'd really appreciate it.

a. Grommet for the firewall where the master cylinder passes through.

b. The rear bracket that holds the shift console to the car (I have the rubber mount piece, just missing the bracket and bolts. It is a sheet metal type console.)

c. Accelerator stop. I think the auto one with its two-stage kickdown will piss me off.

d. Does anyone know if I need the clutch pedal centre-over spring and guide. It is shown on r3v limited's write-up, but I don't see the point.

Thanks a million to the person(s) who can help me out. Box is away getting cleaned so ts all shiny when I put it in, and if my clutch etc arrves to day all of that will be going on tonight. Must remember to get my clutch align tool from BNT - I assume that any old generic one will work - doesn't have to be BMW specific???

Cheers

[nz320i 0]

Update:

1. Removed flex disc from engine and installed flywheel.

2. Installed metal clutch line that snakes along firewall.

3. Installed clutch reservoir.

4. Installed new pedals. I didn't bother switching pedal boxes - I just removed the bolt holding the brake pedal on, and used the longer bolt from the manual pedal box and installed the pedals in. Saved alot of hassle removing and reinstalling the pedal box.

I have discovered I am short a couple of things.

If anyone can help me with these so I don't have to buy new ones I'd really appreciate it.

a. Grommet for the firewall where the master cylinder passes through.

b. The rear bracket that holds the shift console to the car (I have the rubber mount piece, just missing the bracket and bolts. It is a sheet metal type console.)

c. Accelerator stop. I think the auto one with its two-stage kickdown will piss me off.

d. Does anyone know if I need the clutch pedal centre-over spring and guide. It is shown on r3v limited's write-up, but I don't see the point.

Thanks a million to the person(s) who can help me out. Box is away getting cleaned so ts all shiny when I put it in, and if my clutch etc arrves to day all of that will be going on tonight. Must remember to get my clutch align tool from BNT - I assume that any old generic one will work - doesn't have to be BMW specific???

Cheers

hey how long did it take to switch the pedal box pedals over?

[bravo 35]

About half an hour to 45 mins. Mine were harder because the airconlines get in the way.

[bravo 35]

Christmas again!

Z3 shifter arrived today along with other sundries I needed.

So now apart from firewall grommet and shift console bracket I am sorted. Those two have been semi-organised to be here by Wednesday hopefully.

So after work today I will be finishing things to the point of having the g/b in but not connected to driveshaft and shifter and all interior installed. Haven't entirely sussed the wiring to bypass the in-gear switch. According to the Haynes, I should be able to short two pins on the ECU loom and viola!, but in case I do it wrong, planning to sort it out at the shifter end, but not sure which wires to jumper.

There is a brown which appears to be ground for the light for the shift selector. there is power (Green yellow stripe) which goes to the bulb and also to the reverse light switch which then grounds through the blue white stripe wire via the bulbs. Then there are two green and blacks which enter the plug at the same terminal (i.e. they are common) then go to the shift selector. Where do they come from??? Do they work by going to ground? or do I jumper them with another one of the wires? Any help please!

Once I have the console bracket and firewall grommet I will install driveshaft and bleed clutch lines and go for a test drive before putting everything else back in.

My Tuesdays are booked solid, so expect to be finished Wednesday nite.

Been a fairly long project, but mainly due to waiting for parts and figuring it out as I went. Looking forward to driving her again as a manual!