E36 Sedan .. S50B32 .. Battery Positive - Size?

[handgrenade 189]

Hi All

Can someone tell me what size nut will fit on this screw here? It is a direct feed to the positive terminal of the battery which feeds into a line going to the battery in the boot. I need this to wire my angel eye harness. see the exposed thread right in the centre of the image.

Thanks

[euroriffic 609]

Is that the side of the jump start post? Also why don't you just wire them into your parks and take the park lamps out?

[aw-krazy 45]

just tap into the park light wires, and either cancel that wire completely and use it for the angel eyes, or run a splitter so you can use both

easy as

[handgrenade 189]

Thanks for the replies

Yeah that's in the engine bay

I have a special harness with a relay and two trigger points. First I need to wire the relay to constant 12v and then I've tapped off the ECU or fuel pump fuse so they they are pretty much running lights. Second trigger will go to drivers side foot well light so they'll fade on and off when remote lock unlock.

I have a full plug and play set up with new lamps and projectors and HID setup for RHD.

[hybrid 1043]

would just double check your MSS50.1 outputs are rated to drive two relay coils. Would a sh*t of thing if you burnt out the output transistors on the main board. Not a cheap replacement unfortunately.

Tap it off your unloader relay circuit to do it properly. Supply is then controlled via the igition barrel position 2.

[handgrenade 189]

would just double check your MSS50.1 outputs are rated to drive two relay coils. Would a sh*t of thing if you burnt out the output transistors on the main board. Not a cheap replacement unfortunately.

Tap it off your unloader relay circuit to do it properly. Supply is then controlled via the igition barrel position 2.

Hi Josh

Thanks for the heads up. Right now I have a double blade fused relay (from JayCar) tapping off the fuel pump fuse. The relay in my angel eye harness also has a fuse, and the double blade fused relay has a fuse as well.

the tap has two fuses in it - one to handle the original fuel pump fuse, and the other to tap into the signal from one of the fuse points into another fuse which then has an output.

I tried to find some information about this unloader relay fuse, but can't seem to find any info about where I can find it on an e36 ..

Thanks!

[handgrenade 189]

Thanks dave - I just dont have any calipers on me at the moment!

Still a little worried about Josh's comment on frying other electrics in the car! I would have thought the fuse tap from the fuel pump relay would not destroy anything as the original fuse is still in play and there is a secondary 5amp fuse for the relay ..

[kiwi535 538]

Thanks dave - I just dont have any calipers on me at the moment! 

 

Still a little worried about Josh's comment on frying other electrics in the car! I would have thought the fuse tap from the fuel pump relay would not destroy anything as the original fuse is still in play and there is a secondary 5amp fuse for the relay .. 

I think he is talking about tapping onto ecu

[handgrenade 189]

Right, no, not tapping into the ecu, however it would technically be the best option as I believe the ecu gets power as soon as the key is inserted rather than the fuel pump which requires the key to be turned to position 3? but I can live with that .. !

A lot of US owners tap into the ECU and I haven't seen any issues thus far .. however best to be safe. I have looked around for details regarding the unloader relay circuit with no luck on exactly what/where this is. I believe it powers up as Josh says, and also is linked into the air conditioning and other items, however from what I can piece together from e39 forums etc, the relay is hidden somewhere either up behind the glovebox, or somewhere in the footwell. Confusing as well because all the diagrams are for LHD.

Hopefully tapping from the fuel pump fuse should be okay for daytime running, and tapping the passenger footwell light should be enough for the lock/unlock.

The inline blade fuse taps I'm using are:

The lower fuse 'port' holds the original fuse and it is on a separate circuit. The upper fuse holder taps off a single pole of the original fuse (to give a 12v signal) and then there is a secondary fuse which then leads out to the red wire. Im no electrical engineer, but I don't see how any sort of error occuring on the tap out would affect the original fuse (unless you pump enough power in or something silly - it just carries a signal to activate a relay (which is fused as well!).

We'll see how it goes .. hopefully I don't blow up anything important .. worst comes to worst, I can pull the radio loom and find an ACC source from there! I just hate running wiring from the engine bay to the cabin!

I tried a whole bunch of other fuses to tap into the internal lights but i couldn't find one which triggered along with the lock/unlock items. so it looks like I will have to run a line from the passenger footwell.

Edit:

rough diagram

Edited May 24, 2014 by handgrenade

[kiwi535 538]

I am no electrical expert but thats my take on his warning

[handgrenade 189]

How do I get the blasted plastic cap off the engine bay jumper screw? Need access to the bolt but stupid plastic cover won't come off. Tried pulling at it. Then copious swearing and still no luck ..

[handgrenade 189]

The jumper bolt is a m6 but there is a m8 just above tapped the fuel pump fuse and running lights sorted!!

[handgrenade 189]

Pulled the drivers side foot well light .. Soldered in a wire then ran it into the engine bay for the second trigger and now its all set. Angels on when unlock and lock. Fade on each.

Just need to rethink the running lights trigger. Fuel pump is okay but I'd prefer a proper ignition 1 or even ignition 0 trigger point

[handgrenade 189]

Sure of which part? All of it? Alteast my messy soldering skills are hidden in electrical tape

[handgrenade 189]

The lights!

[handgrenade 189]

There ya go!