sonic_attack 89 Report post Posted August 23, 2014 Thought I should document what I'm doing to this, seeing like any other car-toy it's a vortex of monetary evaporation. I'm not that great at keeping track or following a plan either so it'll be new for me. It started as a plain jane NZ new automatic 540i, reasonably tidy - It does have some aesthetic blemishes as you'd expect from a 20+ year old car. I got it at 201K KM, it's now on 209K KM and in that 8000KM I've swapped all 4 rotors and pads, stitched a new waterpump into it after it let go on me, and swapped out the type 2 Schnitzer wheels for some staggered type 3 Schnitzer 2-piece wheels I picked up. The minor blemishes can stay for now. It's a car to use and I use it all the time. Inner city parking is never going to be kind anyway. That's the main reason I've left the towbar on. Now I've owned it and driven it a while, read about the limitations and beneficial upgrades I'm reasonably confident in recognizing a stopping point that'd likely do me fine. I love the shape and size of the car so plan on holding onto it for a long time so I've compiled a shopping list of upgrades that'll work it's way in over time and in some sort of order. Suspension upgrade - Adjustable Koni's and Vogtland Springs. Sourced and purchased, fitting can wait till Summer. Primarily a nice low drop, but a reasonable upgrade over stock. It's not a track car but sometimes I like to drive. There's other bit's and pieces that'll be required, I've had a look under the car and the front seems to be full of newish poly bushes - The back suffers from wheel hop on hard launch and looks to all be OEM rubber, some perished. Diff upgrade - Large case LSD sourced and purchased with 3.46 gearing. Additionally I sourced/purchased e39 M5 3.25 R&P from ebay which I reckon will be roughly right and sit around the sweet spot for an everyday driver. I'll rebuild the diff before sticking it in though, I don't see the point in slapping what's likely practically an open diff in after seeing a couple hundred thousand KM. I'll fit with new subframe/bushes when I find a cheap wreck for an in/out swap. Brake upgrade - Some combination of e34 M5 / e31 / aftermarket. Nothing insane, I just need to slow down and stop. Trans upgrade - 6 speed manual. The benefit here is well documented I don't need to second guess this one. I've had a couple of "trans program" errors on the dash display which I'll assume is telling me to swap the auto out for manual anyway. Interior - Something a lot different to the plain 'ol silver leather. I like it but it's bland in the executive 1990's cheese sort of way. The wood trim might be dated. I've another interior ready to accept so dye, this can wait till summer though. Engine upgrades - This part is a bit of a mindf**k. So I'll leave it till last. The 250 odd cubes of M60B40 is reasonable as it is, I'll see what I have after the diff and manual trans goes in. The main problem being the cost of even simple upgrades here cost a fortune. Headers $2000+, Cams $2000+, Head work astronomical+. The most bang for the buck is the supercharger kits at $5K+ for 100+ HP. Likely I'll do something stupid and throw money at it but there's no drastic urgency. A meticulous plan with specific goals might be in order to get a reasonable return on investment, possibly used parts could keep costs down to survivable. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kiwi535 538 Report post Posted August 23, 2014 dont do amything to the engine till you have done the diff.The v8 is massively overgeared esp the manuals 2.89 not sure what the auto will have but that in itself will make a big difference to response Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Allanw 1071 Report post Posted August 23, 2014 I've had a couple of "trans program" errors on the dash display which I'll assume is telling me to swap the auto out for manual anyway. Haha! Pretty much - anything else is just... well... repairing an auto They can be caused by an old battery in an E39 though - maybe the 34 is the same? (That maybe something you want to forget though!) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sonic_attack 89 Report post Posted August 23, 2014 Yeah the battery is fairly new and doesn't have a problem cranking or anything. The problem is intermittent and has only done it twice with 8 weeks or so between events, and is accompanied by a brief "slipping" noise, almost like a fanbelt squeal but not as high pitched, otherwise the trans functions perfectly, shifts fine and feels solid. The error is gone when the key is switched off and the car restarted. I'd figured if there was something seriously wrong here I'd know it and hear it. I'm thinking some minor mechanical fault and a service would likely be helpful. I had intended to swap fluids out and throw a new filter into it anyway. I'm counting on it being good because I want to sell it lol! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eagle 1662 Report post Posted August 24, 2014 Since your planning on doing quite a bit id recommend getting a set of M5 sway bars, it's good noticeable upgrade that doesn't cost too much. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sonic_attack 89 Report post Posted August 25, 2014 Since your planning on doing quite a bit id recommend getting a set of M5 sway bars, it's good noticeable upgrade that doesn't cost too much. It doesn't actually turn too bad as it is. Well better than I would expect in a larger 20+ year old sedan. It's quite a solid feel as it is so it'll be interesting to see what the koni shocks are replacing. I did find M5/Nurburgring sways on Turner Msport for around $500US sometime in the past, I'll see what happens when I put this set of springs/shocks in nearer summer. I have about two dozen other things to do in and around what I've written up there so likely I'll stretch it out a little, My electric headrests gave up inside 10 minutes of fidgeting around with them, my kid has pulled the electric seat controls off the passenger seats too, the key central locking has never worked and the factory alarm I somehow fluked into passive mode. So a few small bits to tinker around with between the overall plan. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kiwi535 538 Report post Posted August 30, 2014 It doesn't actually turn too bad as it is. Well better than I would expect in a larger 20+ year old sedan. It's quite a solid feel as it is so it'll be interesting to see what the koni shocks are replacing. I did find M5/Nurburgring sways on Turner Msport for around $500US sometime in the past, I'll see what happens when I put this set of springs/shocks in nearer summer. I have about two dozen other things to do in and around what I've written up there so likely I'll stretch it out a little, My electric headrests gave up inside 10 minutes of fidgeting around with them, my kid has pulled the electric seat controls off the passenger seats too, the key central locking has never worked and the factory alarm I somehow fluked into passive mode. So a few small bits to tinker around with between the overall plan. My e34 stayed relatively flat in turns with a solid turn in if a little tardy,was harsh- ish if the surface was uneven,nice ride other wise,mtech bars Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eagle 1662 Report post Posted August 30, 2014 Every E34 ive had or measured had the same bars diameter bars, 23mm F and 15mm R. I think bigger option swaybars were a rare option on a non M car. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites