No name user 379 Report post Posted April 1, 2015 In reference to the Chang made parts they are very good at polishing a turd using a CNC, your right its not a BMW specific item which is why your not getting many replies, JDM transplants are pretty common in BMW's i guess its about keeping within the intent of the car its less common to see turbo BMW everything as per stock which makes it somewhat more attractive. Ill let you know how my V10 goes Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
duvey 245 Report post Posted April 1, 2015 Can always appreciate some pretty fabrication. Extreme build! Following with interest. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nobimmer 694 Report post Posted April 1, 2015 Did you make all that ally stuff? It looks awesome. If so I may have some work for you. Not car related. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
will 169 Report post Posted April 3, 2015 HAS ANYONE DONE THIS BEFORE? look below.. there must be somebody out there. Would like to pick your brain. removable front.jpg I did a bolt off front when doing my M60 conversion. Does not work quite like the one in your pic as the grilles and lights have to be out in order to get to some of the bolts mounting the slam panel to the body. I also kept the A/C and kept the standard bonnet mounting so have not modified the slam panel in any way. Makes getting the massive donk with tranny in and out a breeze.. Removed.. In place.. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
polley 916 Report post Posted April 4, 2015 (edited) Yeah mine's removable too. But I made it out of tube to get extra room for intercooler and radiator. Wills looks good in that it keeps factory mounting for grills and bonnet etc Edited April 4, 2015 by polley 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Evo30 6 Report post Posted August 14, 2015 (edited) It's been ages! Well sorry for lack of updates, been busy helping people with their cars. So here's some updates on my own progress... It's slow cause its damn cold in the garage!Everything has been removed it's a shell again. I'll upload the dismantling pictures later, so a couple of months ago this all started with my brake cylinder leaking fluid inside the cabin. One way to clean the fluid out I guess.StrippingClean up The difference... after a clean and stuff - i thought the car underbody was originally black... And kinda just looks like this at the moment... These are just a single coat of rust proofing at the mo That's POR15 I am using at the underbody, rails, engine bay etc etc. Might paint strip the roof, quarters and panels later.The engine is currently being looked at for iso dipping, since a mate is starting a new business my engine might be the test dummy.till next time. Cya! Edited August 14, 2015 by Evo30 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_BRS_ 209 Report post Posted August 14, 2015 Far out that's a decent strip down, looking good! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Evo30 6 Report post Posted August 14, 2015 Far out that's a decent strip down, looking good! Thanks _BRS_ hahah fairly decent efforst, the only removable part left over is the wiper arm and motor haha. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Evo30 6 Report post Posted August 14, 2015 HAS ANYONE DONE THIS BEFORE? look below.. there must be somebody out there. Would like to pick your brain. removable front.jpg I did a bolt off front when doing my M60 conversion. Does not work quite like the one in your pic as the grilles and lights have to be out in order to get to some of the bolts mounting the slam panel to the body. I also kept the A/C and kept the standard bonnet mounting so have not modified the slam panel in any way. Makes getting the massive donk with tranny in and out a breeze.. Removed.. In place.. Thats wicked bruh, Have you got more pictures? Mind sharing? I was thinking of going this sometime soon, I just bought proper Spot welder remover drill bit. And are you using rivet nuts to be able to bolt them back in? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Evo30 6 Report post Posted August 14, 2015 Got asked a couple of questions, so I thought I'd share. "Why didnt you wirebrush the sealants completely off?"- It's more work... simple as that. And more chances of actually introducing more rust. On that note, if you are going to remove the sealant with harder wirebrush bristles it may strip the etch coating. You will need to use vinegar water mix to ensure that the surface is clean and back to bare (or for smaller areas you can use molasses mix). You can use other solutions, but vinegar water works perfectly fine. DO NOT WAX AND GREASE REMOVER after you treat the rust. It leaves a film that may reject your etch primer, just wash the vinegar water off with small amount of water and use paper towels to dry. Then etch primer is a must.If there are more pointers I can give you with rust treating, do not use bare hands. Always wear gloves. Your sweat and oils leave flash rust on newly treated metal. Try it out sometime, buy metal and treat it with vinegar. Then touch with an open palm, you will see your hand print the next couple of day as flash orange rust. "How do I know I have rust all under there??"-The sealant was not pulling off easy when I was using a soft bristle wirebrush. If sealant easy pulls off it means you have rust under the sealant. I had a few spots like this thats why I went over the whole underbody with a wirebrush on my drill."What is that silver paint?"- POR15 is a great product, I dont often product endorse but if you are going to do rust proofing then it pays to look in to POR15 and/or WATTYL. Both are great products, I just get POR15 cheaper "WOW good work, with the rust what did you do after?"- Etching primer. Doesnt really matter which etching primer you use, but if you are going to apply 2k on your paint then I would not use acrylic laquer as this takes time to fully cure, and may cause bubbles on your 2k coat.I've always kept to the rule.* If painting topcoat with 2k, I prep with ALL 2k.* If painting topcoat with acrylic, I prep with 2k or acrylic. If I use acrylic, I would usually leave it to dry for a few days.Some other people here may have better advise for anyone that will approach a rebuild like mine. Any advise would be appreciated though 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
will 169 Report post Posted August 14, 2015 Dont have any more pics unfortunately. I would have used rivnuts if I had the tool/nuts back when I did this, but just used square M6 nuts which I spot welded to various places on the body, pretty much where spot welds had been drilled. Also beefed up the body with some sheet metal where the slam panel and the outer fender walls join to make the whole thing a bit more solid. Drilling out the original spot welds was the hardest part of the operation! Pain in the butt job... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Karl335 2 Report post Posted August 23, 2015 What gearbox are you running in this out of interest? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
