ED1RTY 2 Report post Posted April 2, 2006 Hi guys, Ive done some research and have purchased a Rockford Fosgate P3 15" DVC (550 rms) Subwoofer as an upgrade to my 2 Sony Xplod 12" pentagon subs. The amp i have purchased to mate to this sub is an Alpine V12 Monoblock with 650 watts rms. I have calculated my boot space that i can use and i was just wondering if anyone knows how big i should make the box, i prefer ported enclosures and the casket of the sub looks f'ing cool so id like to have it facing out. Also a problem is that the specs that they give for the reccomended size box are alot different to my availible space so can i make up in width what i sacrifice in length, or will this screw up the performance of the sub. I have looked on the Rockford Fosgate website at their ported box reccomendations but they only give box sizes with the sub in the box the right way. I am looking at going along the 'Custom boot install,' as i have just 'Customised' my back seat with ports for the sub box and the elusive 'cup holders,' that BMW somehow failed to put into the E30. I will also be sound deadening the whole boot. I will post my availble boot space when i get home but if anyone has any opinions on places that make good custom boxes it would be good. These are the specs on the sub: Size 15" Impedance 2-Ohm x 2 Power Handling 550 RMS 1000 Peak Motor Size 102 oz. double stacked Voice Coil Diameter 2.5" aluminum Speaker Connector Dual 8 AWG compression Mounting Depth 7.625" Rec. Sealed Enclosure 2.0 cu. ft. 56.64 liters Rec. Vented Enclosure 2.25 cu. ft. 63.72 liters Tuning Frequency (vented) 33 Hz Any how any help would be great Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*sic 1 Report post Posted April 3, 2006 curly one. best bet is to go speak to a install place.. depends on how hard out you wanna go in the end. have the sub facing the rear, and the total box volume supplied (should be ok if you have to add some width due to not enough length) ported is awesome for spl and some suns will destroy themselves if not in a ported box.. like mine.. but it all comes down to how hard you wanna go... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ED1RTY 2 Report post Posted April 3, 2006 Okay, i have gone directly to Rockford Fosgate Tech and emailed them this same query, yes i can go wider with less height etc as long as any of the dimensions arn't anymore than 72% bigger/smaller than each other. I can have the casket/magnet facing out of the box as long as the box is 2.25 cubic feet. I also have to allow for port and structurral displacement. They have pretty much put me on the right track and im gunna start drawing up a plan on Vector Works so i can get all the measurment exact allowing for wood thickness ect. So Basically as long as my box is a total of 2.25 cu feet and not too drastically proportioned i will be fine..... Ill post pics along with the rest of my project Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bravo 34 Report post Posted April 3, 2006 Use WinISD (free on teh interweb) to enter in your sub specs and calculate the volume for ported or sealed. This volume given is box volume minus sub displacement, port displacement and reinforcing/bracing displacement so you have to add all these when working out the total volume - fiddly calculations invloved, but oh-so-worth it. Basket-out shouldn't be a problem. Ported is better than sealed in 99.9% of cases. width by height can be altered as long as volume doesn't change and it is not too disproportionate. You WILL need bracing and at least 18mm MDF for a 15" RF. It will be one heavy bitch but go so hard! you've bought some good gear. I spent almost as long calculating my box dimensions as I did constructing it and I have made a $100 sub sound good and that's not just my opinion, but the opinion of the few car sudio geeks I have auditioned it to. Worth the time to get it right in other words. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
320SHKBTE 0 Report post Posted April 3, 2006 hey, I have that sub, an the box that it recommends...it fits in with a squezze, a tight on, plus it has to face upwards cos it dont fit in otherwise..... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ED1RTY 2 Report post Posted April 3, 2006 Okay ill have a look for that programme, post a link to it if possible... Im using 3/4 inch HDF Custom Wood so it should be faily strong/ and freaking heavy, Also I will probably make the front of the box angled so that i can have a bigger face area to mount the sub on, otherwise i will only have 1/2 and inch either side at the top and bottom of the sub whearas on an angle i can get between 1" and 2" making it slightly stronger. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bravo 34 Report post Posted April 3, 2006 (edited) Don't forget that you have to make the box small enough to get it into your boot, or assemble it in there - if you make it as big as the space available in the boot, you wont be able to get it in. I made mine a fraction too large even after checking this - to get my sub out I have to remove my amp tray, slide the box over to that side of the car, slide the carpet out from under it, lots of swearing to squeeze the spare out, then push the box into the spare well (I had to cut down the thread that secures the spare) and then it just gets enough angle to come out. Pretty theif proof, but a bitch if I ever need to get it out. Google winisd you lazy bum - it's the first 6 results. If your too lazy to search, your probably too lazy to put the effort into designing it properly too. Edited April 3, 2006 by bravomikewhiskey Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ED1RTY 2 Report post Posted April 3, 2006 Don't forget that you have to make the box small enough to get it into your boot, or assemble it in there - if you make it as big as the space available in the boot, you wont be able to get it in. I made mine a fraction too large even after checking this - to get my sub out I have to remove my amp tray, slide the box over to that side of the car, slide the carpet out from under it, lots of swearing to squeeze the spare out, then push the box into the spare well (I had to cut down the thread that secures the spare) and then it just gets enough angle to come out. Pretty theif proof, but a bitch if I ever need to get it out. Google winisd you lazy bum - it's the first 6 results. If your too lazy to search, your probably too lazy to put the effort into designing it properly too. Haha i did search, just posted before i searched just incase i couldnt find it Yea i have made the measurments of the box so that it will drop straight down into the boot opening and I will have to screw the sub into the box while it is in the boot as the casket will be facing out. It will be theif proof, and i have no intention of taking it out as i am designing it so that the false floor can be easily removed so that you can get to the spare wheel in an emergency. Getting the wood, glue and screws today... Measure twice, cut once :bounce: :bounce: :bounce: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
