97 Z3 M44 swap to M54B30, best place to find one?

[1990's Mechanic 0]

Sorry but ill post pics as soon as i view it in a few days.

Im buying a very cheap project 1997 Z3 M44 as a base car to start a 2yr build, and after a lot of basic bmw study recently online i have come to the decision to M54B30 swap it as this looks to be tricky and that what i like, a challange. Plus single turbo kit, external waste gated big kit with Link G4 full hardwire(ive used the G4 Storm and Fury on my last 2 build and were amazing) 400-500hp range, nothing too big as 300-350kw is perfect for street RWD. Anything more and just too hard to keep traction to the ground under full throttle unless AWD. Aprox 50-60k build cost.

My background is that im a Trade Certified 1990s mechanic who turned his hand to Building and construction in the early 2000s(to get outdoors!), so this is just one of many hobby builds in my life time including 3 other more recent high HP single turbo builds(EJ20t & 13bt/20bt) and plenty of N/A's before them . Im in no way an electrical type of mechanic so all that will be given to pro's after im done with mechanicals.

So a 2yr full strip build incl, panel paint, front and rear end mods incl strengthening and upgrades galore! Semi showcar, nothing so flash that i dont want to get it dirty or go to track days in!

I Just enjoy the spirit of the build.........getting lost in the garage after work and on weeknds, totally enjoy wasting my hard earned money on cars, always have always will...dont care for the "but its much easier and cheaper this way" argument!

Love getting advice from others that are in the know. Not really into the Trolls and they will just be ignored! Im a simple mechanic, nothing flash! I Know nothing about BMWs but keen to learn as i go so i hope you guys can help me with links to other pre 98 Z3 M44 build swaps to the M54b30.

 

So firstly where would the best places be to ask for blown or worn M52/54 engines keeping in mind ill be fully reconning it so cheap is good if its broke.  SD European maybe? Or should i find a wrecked half cut or sumthin?..or an imported half cut as ill need looms etc anyway...later model z3 loom aswell?...or will the Link G4 cover everything in the engine bay rendering a different loom useless? ??

Also does the wider rear track of the M model facelift mean that i cant use it in the rear of the 97? How much wider are the 2 rear wheel bases in comparison? I imagine u can still swap all parts like brakes,diff etc but are axles or diff output flanges diff length? or am i all wrong?

It will Auto as well. Been there done that with too many stick shifts! Time for a change......i def like to be different in my builds, customizing is soo much fun!

 

Edited September 12, 2023 by 1990's Mechanic

[Vass 830]

Most cost effective way to source a full engine setup I've found is to keep tracking Turners and Manheim damaged car auctions for a suitable one to pop up locally. That way you can be sure you get absolutely everything you need to get it running and neglected is fine since you're rebuilding everything anyway. Take what you need, part out the rest and you might end up with a free engine and a slight profit on top. Some extra hassle for sure but if you're not in an awful hurry then might be worth it. That's how I went about it anyway.

Here's a local M54B30 for you. Might not be an ideal candidate with being AWD (I think?) but keep looking and something will pop up. 

https://manheim.co.nz/damaged-vehicles/000000000006743627/2005-bmw-x3-touring?referringPage=SearchResults

[NZ00Z3 187]

The Z3 has a weak ass end.  The amount of power you are talking about will eventually break the rear sub frame out and drop the diff on the ground.  Read up about the Randy Forbes sub frame fix.  It's a kit of metal parts that gets welded into the subframe and stops the problem.

There are both cast iron and aluminium block M52's.  The cast iron will be better for boost and it can withstand more PSI.  Not sure how common the cast iron block is in N.Z.  Have seen people import them from the USA. 

The M52 family can get a little confusing:

- M52B28 = 2.8L single VANOS engine

- M52TUB28 = technical upgrades 2.8L dual VANOS engine.  Basically a M54

[1990's Mechanic 0]

3 hours ago, Vass said:

Most cost effective way to source a full engine setup I've found is to keep tracking Turners and Manheim damaged car auctions for a suitable one to pop up locally. That way you can be sure you get absolutely everything you need to get it running and neglected is fine since you're rebuilding everything anyway. Take what you need, part out the rest and you might end up with a free engine and a slight profit on top. Some extra hassle for sure but if you're not in an awful hurry then might be worth it. That's how I went about it anyway.

Here's a local M54B30 for you. Might not be an ideal candidate with being AWD (I think?) but keep looking and something will pop up. 

https://manheim.co.nz/damaged-vehicles/000000000006743627/2005-bmw-x3-touring?referringPage=SearchResults

Good idea! Thanks for the lead. Will keep an eye out closer to the time im wanting it.

[1990's Mechanic 0]

1 hour ago, NZ00Z3 said:

The Z3 has a weak ass end.  The amount of power you are talking about will eventually break the rear sub frame out and drop the diff on the ground.  Read up about the Randy Forbes sub frame fix.  It's a kit of metal parts that gets welded into the subframe and stops the problem.

There are both cast iron and aluminium block M52's.  The cast iron will be better for boost and it can withstand more PSI.  Not sure how common the cast iron block is in N.Z.  Have seen people import them from the USA. 

The M52 family can get a little confusing:

- M52B28 = 2.8L single VANOS engine

- M52TUB28 = technical upgrades 2.8L dual VANOS engine.  Basically a M54

Yes i will absolutely be carrying out those type of bracing upgrades no matter what anyway. Cheers for the heads up!

[1990's Mechanic 0]

This is a nice kit https://hopwoodmotorsport.com/shop/m54turbokit