Brake Discs

[jpp 0]

Whats the benefits of getting standard discs re-cond. opposed to buying new. What costs are involved? What else should be done while done there? Paint, pads, bearings etc etc?

[kerrynzl 3]

Whats the benefits of getting standard discs re-cond. opposed to buying new. What costs are involved? What else should be done while done there? Paint, pads, bearings etc etc?

With Re-cond ,I presume you mean grinding them down. Weigh up the costs vs life expectancy etc

[will 169]

As long as the discs are within spec thickness-wise after resurfacing, this is a reasonable alternative to replacing them. You MUST use new pads though, the old ones will damage your newly ground surface and not provide the same braking till they eventually bed in, messing up the discs in the process.

Will

[jpp 0]

Any places recommended or shall I just ring around? Time no hurry, but cost a factor ;/ "Cheap ass Tony."

[OLLIE 26]

small back alley engineering places will normally do it for pretty cheap. $50 for all 4 discs

[jpp 0]

Coolio. And as for the rubbers and bearings etc, worth replacing or since easy to get to, not bother unless torn, noisy? BMW shops best for that gear or....?

[gmccormack 0]

I've had one pair resurfaced for $40. New disks were $300. Despite the cost difference, I would never bother with resurfacing them again. New disks might have cost almost 10x as much but they were worth every $$$.

[jpp 0]

I've had one pair resurfaced for $40. New disks were $300. Despite the cost difference, I would never bother with resurfacing them again. New disks might have cost almost 10x as much but they were worth every $$$.

Why so? I can get the rotors for $60 a pop.

[tehBMWn00p 2]

Why so? I can get the rotors for $60 a pop.

Who you gotta sleep with to get them that cheap ?

[kerrynzl 3]

small back alley engineering places will normally do it for pretty cheap. $50 for all 4 discs

They have to be ground, not machined down with a lathe!

if your discs are buckled [shuddering thru the pedal] throw them away [use 2nd hand,If you want to stay with the "cheap' theme]

If you really want to be "cheap" you can grind them yourself, pm me and I'll tell you how

[total cost $15]

[my legal defence will cost a shitload more. Haha!]

[kiwipetrolhead 1]

You can get your discs machined on the car, or take them off to have machined. If you're removing them to machine, or to replace, all you do to remove them is undo the two brake calliper bolts and slide the calliper out of the way, then remove one small disc-to-hub locating screw. Then the discs will slide straight off the hub. Easy as! Same procedure front and rear. When you put the discs back on, make sure the mating surfaces are nice and clean to prevent any risk of misalignment.

Front discs for my e21 are about $70 each, and a new rear discs for my e34 540 are $98 each (that's trade price I think - even though I'm not in the motor trade... anymore - so always ask for trade price and you might just get it) - that's a current price, I'm buying ONE new rear disc for my 540 this week because the left-hand handbrake drum is warped. Normally I'd buy a pair of discs, but the other disc is in perfect condition and being the back ones, I'll get away with just one disc. The drum is warped due to the previous owner leaving the handbrake on I suspect. I've had the car 2 years and known about it since the beginning, but now the shoes are being destroyed so I thought I better do something about it!

Whether to machine or replace is a matter of how much thickness there is on your existing discs, there is a specified minimum thickness. Some discs have it written on the edge, but otherwise and brake shop should be able to advise. If in doubt, take one off and get the brake shop to measure it for you. Of course, it needs to have enough thickness left to allow for the machining and then still be within the minimum thickens afterwards. And something to realise is that the thinner your discs are, the more prone they are to warping, so new are the best option (especially if you brake a lot or drive fast and brake hard) and they're not that expensive to replace anyway. But DO put new pads in too, regardless of whether it's a machine job or new discs - that's a MUST!

As for your other questions about bearings and seals, that's a separate issue unrelated to the discs themselves. If everything else looks okay (no sign of grease leaking out, etc) then forget the rest.

Paul

[isis 16]

if you have never replaced your rotors on your ride, its time to do so!

Stop trying to skim off replacing them by grinding them down.

If you can afford to buy these cars and throw on all the mods and chromies, should able to

fork out on safety necessities!