e36's

[jpp 0]

I'm wanting to sell my daily 320i e30, 'upgrade' to an e36, then buy a do-up e30 to fullfill the excess parts around home I have.

Questions;

Vanos vs. non-vanos? Differences [pros and cons]

How more economical is a 316i to a 325i e36 stz'?

Mechanically speaking, I can do a cambelt change, done my waterpump etc, very basic e30 maintenance, how much harder is it on an e36 and is there plenty of internet info out there on them?

How much is a manual conversion kit for them?

What general things start to break around the 1992 - 1995 age on e36s?

General things to look out for them when buying thats different to other cars?

Chur chur TIA

[drifty325i 0]

Up grade to an e36? what have you been smoking tonight

[jpp 0]

Up grade to an e36? what have you been smoking tonight

;P In my defence, I did put them in quotations as the only upgrade is the age.

Still want an e30 project! Something to MAKE me want to come home haha

[drifty325i 0]

Lol all good, but to be honest with the e36 you will prob spend more time fixing it than fixing up an e30.

[lilme 0]

i have owned my e36 for almost two years and it has been an awsome car, reliable as, starts everytime, never broken down, and ive only had to fix one thing that was the roof lining coz it was an import. its safe, nice to drive and cumfy for pasengers!!

im not a huge fan of e30's but whenever i read a thread about them i dont make a point of how much i dont like them, alot of people on here are quick to dis e36's and i dont understand why!! i supose at the end of the day as long as you own a bmw then its all good!!

if you want a manual e36 just wait around until one pops up in the market instead of converting it. once we bought my auto one we just waited and bought another manual one instead of converting mine. and the cost between the two was very little compared to what a conversion costs. our 325 manual uses less gass then our 320 auto i would call it economical in todays standards. theres a website linked to the american bimmerforums, i think its bimmerdiy.com, theres heaps of info on e36s on there, my bf reakons there easy to work on, heck i was out there helping him last time lol, must be easy!

the roof lining thing on imported e36s is a pain its apx 500 to get fixed, something about the adhesive used overseas not being able to withstand the nz sun.

sorry if i strayed off topic a little, hope this helps you out.

Edited March 4, 2007 by lilme

[B*Emz 0]

I'm wanting to sell my daily 320i e30, 'upgrade' to an e36, then buy a do-up e30 to fullfill the excess parts around home I have.

Questions;

Vanos vs. non-vanos? Differences [pros and cons]

How more economical is a 316i to a 325i e36 stz'?

Mechanically speaking, I can do a cambelt change, done my waterpump etc, very basic e30 maintenance, how much harder is it on an e36 and is there plenty of internet info out there on them?

How much is a manual conversion kit for them?

What general things start to break around the 1992 - 1995 age on e36s?

General things to look out for them when buying thats different to other cars?

Chur chur TIA

I have a 316, unfortunately. Economical yes, on accelleration, general power, AND petrol. Having said that you have your foot flat to the floor to get any half decent performance out of the thing, so they aren't as economic as they could be, petrol wise.

I've stopped worrying about the 316 though, it has a replacement en route :D

[Jazzbass 1]

im not a huge fan of e30's but whenever i read a thread about them i dont make a point of how much i dont like them

I'll ditto that.

It gets very tiresome.

FWIW,

I've never had an E30 (drove several, but they didn't do anything for me, so I left them)

I've had 2 E36s (Both my E36s were Jap imports)

I currently have an E39 (NZ new - full BMW service history)

I was disappointed in the niggling little repairs that I always seemed to have to do with my E36s.

I suspect that many of the comments you refer to are reflecting those niggles.

Part of the problem appears to be that the Japanese do not maintain their cars as well as us.

I've owned cars since 1965 and it seems to me that once they get around 8-10 years old, it is completely normal for any car to have such problems, so the bitches about E36s could probably be leveled at any car of similar age. After 20 years old, most Euro cars are owned by enthusiasts, who normally do all repairs and maintenance themselves, so the running costs are miniised. Such people tend to have strong ties to their cars and thus defend them more rigorously than those who prefer to pay others to keep them going.

[Jazzbass 1]

go for the 3 pedal option so much better than slush matics, they are out there

This is, of course, total bollox and is simply an opinion, however it is often expressed here, and is even more tiring than the bashing of E36s.

[jpp 0]

I have always like e36s, and now is a good time for me to get one really. Want manual and want it to be economical. Guess it will come down to how I drive again *dammit*

So yeah, basically, for when I'm purchasing, there is nothing special to look out for?

Just the vanos/non-vanos thing, explain?

Thanks to all those above :D

[Jazzbass 1]

JP - based on my E36 experiences, I'd certainly get the steering rack well checked out - both of mine needed replacement - $1200 a time.

Both also needed rear shock mounts replaced - about $350 a time.

I'd also be looking for noisy VANOS - when they start to rattle they drive me smegging crazy(er)

I prefer my BMW to be a very quiet runner. You may have different ideas.

Other than that - they're just a car - make sure you check the normal things you would in any car.

[drifty325i 0]

Hey dont get me wrong guys, i dont mind e36s at all. The old man had a 1998 m3 6speed and it was great fun! but

I just wanted to point out that there are a few nigly little things that anoy me with them. The car overall is great but imo the little things let them down a bit like the glovebox fit and the headliner etc.

[drifty325i 0]

We all no e30s are old but they are alot of fun, cheaper to mod, lighter, arguably better built, good e30s are are rarer in NZ as well so hold there price well. Different cars really, both are great in there own right.

[Jazzbass 1]

If you want that extra precision and control in your driving join the europeans 80% of all cars in Holland, France and Germany have the extra pedal, why settle for less!!

But if all you want is a nice driving, comfortable, well-engineered BMW and you couldn't care less about the "extra precision and control", like me... I don't see it as settling for less - just the opposite. I think we've had this discussion before, mate! I'll just shut up about it and agree that we disagree.

[Jazzbass 1]

Mate, you're quite right, its all about sets of values. I guess I just get upset when someone goes on about it in almost every thread, (and no, I'm not getting a dig in at you) it seems. Because I am who I am, I tend to tackle people who state that anything is the best or better than something else since I firmly believe that firstly there is no best - I believe that everything in life is a compromise and that secondly, such a statement places the writer's opinion above those of anyone whose opinion is different. Its all about the wording in the curious written media in which we indulge.

For instance if I was to say that for getting the power on the road and good control through corners etc I preferred a stick shift over an automatic, I couldn't challenge that, since it was expressed as a qualified opinion. (opinion and reason)

If I was to say that a stick shift is the best - well, that's just bollox, as its completely unqualified and doesn't take into account the people who may have a different opinion, or who may have a physical reason why they can't use a clutch, or even a gear lever. If any of my students gave opinions in that manner, they would get very poor marks.

FWIW, I do understand what you're saying and before I blew my left ankle I would have agreed with you, but now - automatic gearboxes are my friend.

I'm just a picky old bastard!!

[entscheidend 0]

I'm wanting to sell my daily 320i e30, 'upgrade' to an e36, then buy a do-up e30 to fullfill the excess parts around home I have.

Questions;

Vanos vs. non-vanos? Differences [pros and cons]

How more economical is a 316i to a 325i e36 stz'?

Mechanically speaking, I can do a cambelt change, done my waterpump etc, very basic e30 maintenance, how much harder is it on an e36 and is there plenty of internet info out there on them?

How much is a manual conversion kit for them?

What general things start to break around the 1992 - 1995 age on e36s?

General things to look out for them when buying thats different to other cars?

Chur chur TIA

Ive had both E30's and now have an E36 - Single VANOS is on the M50 motors, Double VANOS is on M52

VANOS helps the emission reducing wasted gas and is on the intake Cam, Double VANOS is the same only works better and faster at low and high engine speeds and is on both intake and out take.

VANOS helps with smoother acceleration, better fuel and air mixture.

Cambelt is chain.

Maintainence is similiar to E30, water pump is easy to access.

I think most problems from wear and tear on a E36 are the pulleys - they need replacing after 7 years on average from new, brake box under the steering column goes quite often, VANOS hose lines - these leak, rear shocks - get these checked, door linings seem to squeek alot compared to the E34, OBC - pixels go - expensive to replace, they cant be fixed .... fuel pump... other than than IMO they are a really reliable car, excellent performance and smooth ride.

Fuel Ecomony - 316/318 versus 325 - i would go 325

My pick out of the E36 range excluding M3 would be 323 or 328, 325 has older technology and for the same price thanks to Jap imports

[tintop 10]

GF wanted a e36 coupe, ideally she wanted a manual but for what she wanted to spend (around $15k) she couldn't find a manual with under 70kms for anything less than around $20k. We drove everything from the 318is to the 328i. She picked the '95 328i with 66kms, with the M spec kit/suspension, 16" alloys, in red. By far the quickest and most torquey of the lot. The '97 323i we drove was nice as well, just lacked the kick of the 328i.

[BMW POWER 2]

We all no e30s are old but they are alot of fun, cheaper to mod, lighter, arguably better built, good e30s are are rarer in NZ as well so hold there price well. Different cars really, both are great in there own right.

Yeah Riley's right. The E30 BMW is more often than not "The Gateway BMW"

True with my parents: 1991 E30 320i > 1994 E36 320i > 1996 E39 532i.

And me: 1989 E30 316i > ?

JP, With our E36 Import, The discs had to be replaced due to warping (not E36 only though I guess) the whole car broke down once (wouldn't start) and was in BMW for a month, cost us $3500 to repair that fault, the shock mounts were knackered.. etc etc.

In my family's experience (This is only one vehicle and yes a pre-95, all factors to be considered here) I would advise against buying an import. But then again there are many Import cutomers here that would say the oposite.

Up to you... good luck!

[Gaz 1060]

Definately go for it and make sure its manual.

Manual kits are out there for around $1000 (dont qoute me on that) but its just as expensive if not cheaper to buy a maunal and save the hassle.

Ive got a e36 318i and a e30 325i and driven my dads 328i around and i have to say me dads 328 was the most enjoyable for me. It has the speed and a real solid feel about it adn economy isnt to bad either.

If you can find one that has a fsh that would be best because alot of little things can go wrong so if you can avoid the bigs things it makes it easier.

Ive had my e36 for almost two years and so ive only had small things need fixing eg bump stop, ball joints, bearings etc etc $400 odd a piece and it soon mounts up.

[westy 614]

JP....just buy a good one with a history.

The single vanos on the e36 dosn't cause problems but is good for power.

Manual conversions are rare and at least twice the price of e30 ones.

The 323 & 328 are more economical the the 320/318/316.

Generally speaking they are mechanically reliable , electrically suspect.