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ED1RTY

I demolished my halfshafts!!

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As per title, was sitting in first for about 20secs, then went to hit second, gripped up so i gave the clutch a bit of a kick then see you later, wasted them at the universal (diff end) got and excuse to chuck the disc brakes in now! :D

Going to do I.E adjustable camber, poly subframe, diff and rear sway bushes.

Will do a bit of a write up as stuff goes in.

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hahaha 320i power!!!!!

you f**kin Rough kunt Chris, they wouldve hung in there a bit better if they weren't on so much of an angle

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hahaha 320i power!!!!!

you f**kin Rough kunt Chris, they wouldve hung in there a bit better if they weren't on so much of an angle

lol thats what ive heard from everyone.

just cleaning up my disc'd rear end. Diff has a bit of pitting on the gears but not enough to comprimise its use.

Going with new discs and pads.

Any reccomendations?

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interested to hear ... was it the CV spline that span itself in or the actual half shaft that broke ?

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interested to hear ... was it the CV spline that span itself in or the actual half shaft that broke ?

The universal at the diff end of the shaft.

I was at about 5-6k rpm when i dumped 2nd, I hardly ever do skids in my E30 so i dont really understand how it broke, as Gary said its probably just the angle they are on. I think the paddock bashing may have contributed to it though :wacko:

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As per title, was sitting in first for about 20secs, then went to hit second, gripped up so i gave the clutch a bit of a kick then see you later, wasted them at the universal (diff end) got and excuse to chuck the disc brakes in now! :D

Going to do I.E adjustable camber, poly subframe, diff and rear sway bushes.

Will do a bit of a write up as stuff goes in.

I've done all this (grant modified subframe though) as well so feel free to ask away if you got any q's. I had to trim the lips on the IE subframe bushings. They were just too big to fit in with their kit. Also, wheel alignments are an absolute c**t. Tire shop wouldn't touch mine until I trimmed down a spanner, theres just no room to move a standard one.

Lastly, because there is so little room in there I found it easiest to assemble the whole subframe assembly and then install the whole lot into the car at once. PITA but easier than trying to slide the trailing arm bolts through.

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I've done all this (grant modified subframe though) as well so feel free to ask away if you got any q's. I had to trim the lips on the IE subframe bushings. They were just too big to fit in with their kit. Also, wheel alignments are an absolute c**t. Tire shop wouldn't touch mine until I trimmed down a spanner, theres just no room to move a standard one.

Lastly, because there is so little room in there I found it easiest to assemble the whole subframe assembly and then install the whole lot into the car at once. PITA but easier than trying to slide the trailing arm bolts through.

Oh real? Thats awesome, would you have any pics etc of how you set it up etc. Ill be assembling the whole subframe and putting it all in at once, as you said PITA and its really a 2 man job

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and its really a 2 man job

pft..pussy

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Oh real? Thats awesome, would you have any pics etc of how you set it up etc. Ill be assembling the whole subframe and putting it all in at once, as you said PITA and its really a 2 man job

I'll have a look at home and see what pics I've got. Most of it went together pretty well apart from thoses bushes.

Just get yourself a few jacks to raise the subframe into place, and 2 people makes job sooo much easier.

Gus is just... well... Gus

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Pics of the damage.

White b/g = cage, bearing etc

Other tell all. Look how out of round the housing is :S

Its actually the bearing cage and outer splines that i demolished. Not the actual half shaft.

Havnt dropped the subframe out yet but its all up and ready to go.

The last sub frame i dropped out and put in myself wasnt worth the mission. Id rather just do it with 2 people. Save damaging (more) sh*t

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Come in at anytime Will.............

E30 mocked up rear subframe jig anybody???????

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The universal at the diff end of the shaft.

I was at about 5-6k rpm when i dumped 2nd, ............. so i dont really understand how it broke

really?

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I've only got some of the frame out of the car. Can't really see much when its in place anyway. It was that top part of the green bushing that gets in the way. Toe is the outer adjustment and camber is inner. You'll need to take a hammer to your floor pan if you got the taller camber ones like I got.

Its also a mission removing the old bushings. I burnt and hacksawed out the subframe ones and used a 2 jaw puller to pull the T/A ones out. The IE ones will slide straight in though.

worth doing though, the bushings made a huge difference.

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Edited by Mike

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pft..pussy

I'm with Gus here.. :P

Come in at anytime Will.............

my lips are sealed for now.. :ph34r:

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Awesome.

Cheers for the pics man.

Will please say whatever you have to say!!

Oh yea Mike, did I.E give you installation instructions with the camber kit?

Edited by ED1RTY

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This is what ive ordered

Street Urethane Subframe Bushes

Street Urethane Trailing arm Bushes

Sway bar bushings, billet rear mounts, front mounts with reinforcement,

adjustable f&r end links for stock bars

Adjustable Rear Camber Kit

Just going to get copies of the Camber Kit made and use them for toe.

These should be availible for purchase depending on manufacturing costs.

Will do pics etc as they go in (When they get here)

Edited by ED1RTY

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the camber and toe kits are different. The camber ones mount inboard and have way more adjustment than the toe ones. I'm not sure if the toe kit would have enough adjustment for serious camber issues. However, the kit for toe uses 5-series bolts with special locking washers that rotate with the bolt. You can buy these from the stealer and just get someone to make up suitable plates that can be welded on.

not sure if they came with instructions sorry.

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Just got my box of goodies from IE

Two hassles.

They overcharged me $45 on freight and they sent me two sets of front endlinks for sways instead of one front and one rear.

Kinda pissed but heres the bits anyway...

First pic is original rear compared to the 'New, Wrong' rear.

Second pic is all the bits,

Subframe Bushings, Trailing Arm Bushings, Front and Rear Sways + bushings and endlinks

Billet rear Sway mounts

Camber Kit

Will do more pics as shiz goes in

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nice haul, good to see your doing the rear sway mount upgrades, they've been known to bend on the T/A.

No toe kit though? Or are you just going to copy their design and make your own?

I'd get the toe kit if you weren't already planning on it. incorrect toe can cause bad tyre wear as well.

Have you done the front CABs? do those if you haven't and it will be a whole new car.

Edited by Mike

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Righty ho, just installed front swaybar etc fairly easy everything just bolted up sweet!!

Yea Mike I did Nolathane CAB's 6 months or so ago, made alot of difference thus why I have just done the rest and yes the original rear sway mounts to the T.A had seen better days!!

Re: Toe Kit, im going to source the BMW part that is the eccentric bolt/washers and get the plates made up, essentially copying their design. These should be for sale when I have mine fitted etc.

Pics: Out with the old....

In with the new!

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Cleaned up the subframe today, took out the old bushes, (well actually i burnt them out, i broke about 10 hacksaw blades and broke a drill trying to 'cut' them out) grinded all the rough bits off with a sanding disc and gave it a paint, Camber Adjusters will be welded on hopefully Saturday and the bushes etc will go in to.

I also drilled the holes and mounted my billet rear swaybar mounts, will get pics of those when the swaybar etc goes in.

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