Bulletproofing an M50/Turbo

[hybrid 1039]

yeah for sure ... Will defantily let you know as we move into the next phase of this project. At this point we are going with what others have done with these engines ... fun times

[Assault 0]

As far as additional fuel requirements I'm thinking about running a second set (6) of injectors (to be controlled via whichever ecu I end up running) - Debating whether it's worth the effort to run ITB's and use a larger plenum.

From research the injectors run at nearly 90% duty cycle under full load in a standard engine.. So would be good to swap them with some that are less 'stressed' - Someone on here was using ford 5.0 ones?

The fuel pump will be upgraded.

I dont see the need for running a second set of injectors on your set up, replacing your current set of injectors with bigger ones would suffice as they wont be so big that they become slow. Running a second set will just mean you have to spend more on getting a custom intake manifold made up and a second fuel rail as well as fuel lines to it.

here is a link for rough injector calculation:

http://www.injector.com/injectorselection.php

Put in your target HP and put in a BSFC of about 0.65 for a turbo engine, put in the number of injectors (6) and you dont really want to run your injectors over 80% duty cycle to keep a bit of head room so leave it as 0.8

There you a go, a rough estimate of what you will need minimum to run the target horsepower. Of course this is assuming a base Fuel pressure of 43.5psi. There are more complex calculations out there to incorporate more factors for better accuracy if you need it.

As far as a rising rate fuel pressure regulator (i.e. 1:1.7 etc) goes, stay away from these if you are running an aftermarket ecu, it will just make tuning harder. Just run a normal 1:1 adjustable fuel pressure regulator.

[Andrew 30]

From research the injectors run at nearly 90% duty cycle under full load in a standard engine.. So would be good to swap them with some that are less 'stressed' - Someone on here was using ford 5.0 ones?

That is my motor you are talking about on my NA 2.5 race car. There were 90% after we modded the engine then changed to the ford injectors.

I personally would not bother with O-Rings etc etc. You can do a satisfactory setup with the motor stock and still whack out a healthy 280 + hp and lots of torque and decent driveability. The m50 flows nicely and that could be acheived with medium abouts of pressure (0.9 bar for e.g).

I have a 280 hp e30 - and it is definately on the limit for stock brakes, it NEEDS a good diff to get power down and would rock a mid 13 1/4. That really is fast enough. My point is - to go faster you need to then start going down the road Josh has done and upgrade everything else.

You also have to remember you WILL break stuff with an aftermarket turbo car. It just - happens. All of the time, even with the best engineered ones.

So in summary - 10k would get you a nice litte setup - leave the motor alone (or freshen it up if it's tired) and you'd walk away with 300 odd hp.

It sounds like you need to work out exactly what you want to achieve - all you have said so far is go fast. There is a big difference between fast and FAST

Win

[Surge 1]

Cheers for the info Assault and Andrew.

In terms of end goals for the car it is currently running Koni Yellow Adjustables, H&R Springs, all the bushes have been replaced with urethane and will likely be using a 5 series LSD (with the obvious subframe modifications&driveshaft) GAC sells a full adjustable rear end to suit an E30, so thats on the cards..

I won't be converting to 5 stud (despite the advantages) as I've got in my possesion the wheels of my dreams built to suit an E30 TOCA car. (9" front, 9.5" rear) the body is being "m3'd" to help accomodate them. Brake upgrades as you stated will be essential, I know the stock ones on Dad's 325i with me driving at Ruapuna lasted a lap before some chronic fade. The goal now is to get the body finished, the motor built then in the car and running - then work from there before I put it back on the road. It will not be going back on the road till the brakes get done.

The car owes me nothing, I brought it as a damaged 318i (stuffed auto) for $400 - Sold the engine in the same week for $450. I'm intending on 'sinking' a fair sum of money into this to get the car as I want it.

[will 169]

Just for info, received my copy of "maximum boost" today, took less than a week from order to arrive... impressive!! Bedtime reading

Edited April 20, 2007 by will

[Guest Denny Crane]

Just for info, received my copy of "maximum boost" today, took less than a week from order to arrive... impressive!! Bedtime reading

I'll expect a bedtime story on wednesday then?

[hybrid 1039]

I won't be converting to 5 stud (despite the advantages) as I've got in my possesion the wheels of my dreams built to suit an E30 TOCA car. (9" front, 9.5" rear) the body is being "m3'd" to help accomodate them. Brake upgrades as you stated will be essential, I know the stock ones on Dad's 325i with me driving at Ruapuna lasted a lap before some chronic fade. The goal now is to get the body finished, the motor built then in the car and running - then work from there before I put it back on the road. It will not be going back on the road till the brakes get done.

Awesome man, Give me a yell if you need a hand with m3 guard vs wheel width vs offset bits. We are just going through that sh*t at the moment. For the front you looking at et20 or lower .. We are going et15 with the help of 15mm spacers and thats with an 8.5 inch rim. This is to A) clear the 6 pot calipers and B ) clear the inner guards. and C) to keep the same track as the rear wheels as the m-coupe rear end has bought the trac k out about 20mm each side

With 9.0inch fronts you will need to roll the m3 gaurds still to get em in without shitload of camber.

You may also need to modify the standard m3 bumper to cope with the wider wheels. (the DTM ones where slightly wider)

You have several brake options. Availible depending on requirements.. the cross drilled porche brake upgrade is a popular one. Just keep in mind the master cylinder problem, (we upgraded to a 25mm one). But defanitly dont skimp in this area .. its probably more important than anything else.

The car owes me nothing, I brought it as a damaged 318i (stuffed auto) for $400 - Sold the engine in the same week for $450. I'm intending on 'sinking' a fair sum of money into this to get the car as I want it.

hehehe expect a reasonible chunk of cash to go poof.

[Surge 1]

The gaurds are being built off a normal gaurd, but wider than what the factory M3 gaurd would be. The bumpers and sideskirts will be done in fibreglass, so can be custom made to suit. I haven't had much of a chance to play with these wheels but they somehow defy logic and fit straight on the front (at stock height) and the back without fouling any part of the chassis/suspension. Lowering it on them is a different story.. But hey thats why my car looks like a jigsaw with missing pieces now.

All I know is that an e30 on wheels that wide looks rather indimidating, I don't think any engine that was available at the time could provide the grunt needed to back up the 'staunch'

The cash dissappearing isn't a problem - I don't plan on selling this car for a long long time..

[hybrid 1039]

yeah nice

you can laugh at what we now have to do in the rear for the m3 guards to fit with the 18x8.5 BBS LMs on