Nasian101

MHD Tuning Question

26 posts in this topic

Hey Guys,

As I am relatively new to modding and tuning I thought I'd better ask and see what sort of stage maps people are running with what mods.

Currently waiting on parts that i've bought online which are not the highest of quality but meet my budget.

Order list - 

  • Dual Cone Intakes
  • 6" Intercooler from NZKW
  • VRSF Style Catless Downpipes
  • BMS BOV Kit/Charge pipe
  • Oil Catch Can

 

My questions are basically what MHD and xHP maps are people running on similar set ups? What maps do you think I should be running with this sort of set up? 

Also on a side note, what insurance companies are people with?

All opinions will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

 

 

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I have an upgraded intercooler and chargepipe and run the stage1 plus 95 tune. It's a big difference. Your next purchase should be a limited slip differential. The tune really exposes how easy it is to break traction with the extra torque.

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Agree with John.  I have the same setup but also a COBB chargepipe and exhaust with Stage 3 xhp and Stage 2+ MHD.  Loses traction very quickly now.  Next purchase is definitely a LSD.

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Hey Jivnesh

How long have you been running the Stage 2+ and the Stage 3 xHP? Basically looking to run the same set up tune wise. Do you think this would be possible/would you advise this? This car is my daily driver so I don't want to run into any major issues by running the car on too hard of a tune.

5 hours ago, jivismokin said:

Agree with John.  I have the same setup but also a COBB chargepipe and exhaust with Stage 3 xhp and Stage 2+ MHD.  Loses traction very quickly now.  Next purchase is definitely a LSD.

 

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You will definitely need a chargepipe as the factory one has been known to break under a tune. Not sure if you need an exhaust for a stage 2 tune but I got one anyway. Best bet would be start with stage 1 and see how the car handles. I had a Cobb accessport before MHD so it already had a stage 2 tune. I use mine for daily driving and have had no issues. Has the tune for over 6 months now. 

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Yep the factory chargepipe is shockingly brittle. Mine broke apart in my hands while upgrading 

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45 minutes ago, navin117 said:

Yep the factory chargepipe is shockingly brittle. Mine broke apart in my hands while upgrading 

even when not broken they can leak and this was the cause of my check engine light issues.

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Yeah I've got the BMS chargepipe +  BOV kit on its way. I think ill try to run the stage two and see how it goes from there.

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If you are not running catless downpipes off the turbos I would stick with Stage 1 Plus. I had an in depth conversation with a guy on the E90 forums in the US and he felt that by running Stage 2 with stock downpipes he stressed his turbos to the point that the back one failed. His opinion after a lot of research was that stage 2 tune puts just too much pressure unless you have replacement downpipes to allow the turbos to spool up efficiently. 

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I have replacement VRSF Catless downpipes on the way (:

 

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Just realised I ordered the wrong DCAN cable for my car as I've just run the vin and it says December 2006.

This is the cable I bought http://www.ebay.com/itm/282543442826 .

Would anyone have any idea where to find a cable for a pre 2007?

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It will probably work. Don't think BMW changed anything in that time. 

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Ill give it a try, thanks Matt. My main concern is that all my parts come and I wont be able to flash anything because of a silly cord! 

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Cable should be fine. I didn't trust the eBay ones but a mate of mine has used them and has had no issues. 

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Hey guys

So I've finally gone FBO and have just loaded my xhp stage 2 and mhd Stage 2+ maps! Its been a drag of a process as waiting for parts to come was not fun but anyways now we are here.

Now for my issues.. as I want catless dp's obviously I had the o2 sensors come up with the engine light. This was to be expected so I ended up clearing them with the app but the light ended up popping back up again (this is before the tune). I waved it off as I heard that loading the stage two maps would clear it anyways so I did so. With the stage 2+ map loaded I went for a little test and as I put my foot down the engine fault message came up (full power not available, still drivable but "drive moderately") came on (the car was already warm). Now this had happened before pre tune so I turned my car off and on and the engine fault disappeared. I decided to go for another pull and the same thing happened again, this time instead of turning the car off i decided to try clear the engine fault. This seemed to work as I had my first successful pull without it coming up but as I was coming back down my road the check engine light came on (this is the little light by the speedo not the one that comes up on the screen). Im just wondering if anyone else has had this issue? Could it be that I was being a little too aggressive with the car as it needs to get used to the tune first? Let me know what you guys think! @Matth5 @Herbmiester 

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What was the fault that came up in the app? You checked the code right?

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Hi Navin

The code said O2 sensor which dosent make much sense to me why it would put the car into engine fault.

 

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If it was the emissions code I don't think the car would go into limp mode.

What's the actual code?

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Yes actual code will help us help you.

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Hey guys sorry for the late reply.

The code is 30FF which upon some more research means it could be a number of things.. I took it to BM Workshop in Grey Lynn and they ended up charging me $200 and said that the problem was that one of the pipes of my oil catch can had come off which didnt make much sense to me as I had this issue before I had even put that on.. To no surprise the code came up again while pulling home.

Stuck on what to do!

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30FF is a boost leak, searching that on Google tells you that pretty quickly. Nothing at all to do with 02 sensors/Cats.

Yes it can be caused by many things but the gist of it is your car is not able to create full boost.

Does it make a whistling noise when you hit the gas? Low-ish revs make it easier to hear but it should be pretty clear. Then it's likely something loose in the charge piping, anywhere between turbo and intercooler.

The workshop should have done a pressure/smoke test to check this.

Otherwise next culprit is the pressure converter AKA wastewater solenoid.

Lastly it could be turbo/wastegate related which would be expensive but rule out everything else first before worrying about it.

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Definitely makes a suction noise when accelerating but I put that down the to DCI's. I can't see where anything would be lose in those areas but I will make sure they do a smoke/pressure test next time if they haven't already.

Could it ever be caused by a Vanos solenoid? as they were saying that the exhaust side was throwing a code before.

I don't get wastegate rattle so I really hope its not down that road ): 

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The 30FF simply means the boost being measured by the sensor in the charge pipe is not close enough to target. So it's either leaking, the sensor is faulty, or is unable to build boost due to a turbo issue.

Vanos solenoids would surely be another issue with a different code. 

I've often had 30FF several times after my own DIY installs when I didn't tighten a hose clamp enough, it's always also made a whistling noise or the pipe popped off completely. And also I've had a failing pressure converter that I replaced. 

Yeah your intake might make a similar noise which will add to the challenge...

Edited by Matth5

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In my case the 30ff was caused by the oem  charge pipe leaking, no cracks just a leak around the diverter valves. The other area to check in the vacuum lines the ones going from my waste gate solenoid to the rear turbo was brittle and cracked. Not an easy one to get to unfortunately. 

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Good news guys! I ended up fixing the issue, essentially I had a 10mm hole in my charge pipe because the meth bung fell out.

Now the bad news. Misfires in cylinders 1 and 6 and "Inactive codes" Super knocking in 3 other cylinders (forgot numbers but will get them tomorrow as its now raining).

Will come back with exact codes tomorrow but for now what are your thoughts?

I know the misfires will most likely be sparks or coils but I have never heard of super knocking before?

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