Jump to content

Herbmiester

Members
  • Content Count

    1701
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    24

Herbmiester last won the day on September 2 2021

Herbmiester had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

866 Excellent

4 Followers

About Herbmiester

  • Rank
    5th Gear

Previous Fields

  • Name
    John Herbert
  • Location
    Upper Hutt
  • Car
    E70 X5 40D
  • Car 2
    E34 540is Techno Violet
  • Car 3
    F800GS

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    BMW's shooting, hunting and fishing.

Recent Profile Visitors

5763 profile views
  1. No oil pressure issues yet. I have decided I am going to take the sump off and have a closer look.
  2. So the Vacuum pump on my X5 40D (N57) is failing. I checked vacuum at the block by removing the tube that goes into the block and there was no vacuum. So it looks like I have a gummed up vacuum pump. Probably carbon inside because after the engine has warmed up the pump frees itself up and I get vacuum again. Looking at my options I could drop the sump and see if the vacuum pump could be serviced. A left field alternative is to use an electrical aftermarket pump and have it certified. I have fitted an electric pump to a friends big cam V8 Chev and it seemed to work quite well. Before I go down that route I am curious if anyone has serviced an N57 vacuum pump? Can it be done? Time is ticking away here so if you have any info please let me know ASAP. Thanks
  3. I went through this and just bought a replacement from FCP.
  4. Part number is 31331124322. It fits a lot of different vehicles including E36's E30's and Z3's.
  5. Funny, young guys want to drift and old guys want handling. I have done 3 E36's but all set up to handle, coil overs are not necessary to reduce ride height just shocks and springs. My first e36 had Koni STR.T and King springs, worked pretty well. Whiteline and Nolathane bushes have been my go to options but one of my E36's got a subframe crack and some says stiffer bushes in the back can do this and some prefer rubber with limiter bushes. As mentioned the $$$ for certification is a pain that's why I stay away from coilovers. Many young guys dont get certified but my Nephews mate didn't bother, had a crash got denied insurance and then then the insurance company of the car he crashed into took him to court for 30k.
  6. Sadly my wife never warmed to the 530i, probably a bit big for her so its up for sale. Those in the know will realise its Kyu's fathers car. It has 173k on the clock and is pretty tidy apart from a few scuff and chips. The interior is super tidy and everything seems to work well. The reversing camera was replaced but it has not been hooked up yet. Since we have owned it its only done about 3k. I replaced the battery and most importantly I replaced the water pump and thermostat. It has factory Bluetooth, sunroof (drains replaced), new Xenon bulbs. Pretty nicely specced from the factory. Tires are good, continentals up front. Any questions ask away, has been owned by 2 Bimmersport people and certainly cared for plus its a Touring so extra nice . Asking $8k
  7. My Niece will be getting her licence in July and she has her heart set on a BMW. She will have a bout 3.5k to spend which I think wont be enough to get something reliable. I was thinking about a an E46 sedan. I see some 1 series are cheap but they are all 116i's which dont have a stellar reputation. Is this possible or do I steer here towards a Japanese car or maybe a Golf? What to do think?
  8. Just wondering, I read that I am supposed to ad 50ml of oil to my strut housing before inserting my new strut cartridge. Is this correct?
  9. I like it. https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/740i/listing/3432170276?bof=qLfOFCYX
  10. Not really, I am probably boing to use amodern fabric that is close but not exact.
  11. Not sure I can agree with this, if a 135i is too fast for most NZ drivers then we should all be driving 1.3 Corollas. 135is are quite manageable and the big boost in mid range torque makes them easier to drive in some respects. Driver control is the key whether is 400hp or 200hp. When the 130i thread popped up on here I was intrigued so I went and drove a few as I really like the looks and thought it was time to replace the 335i. I was then and still am a wee bit underwhelmed by them especially in direct comparison to a 135i which I also drove. I drive a lot of twisty country roads to get to where I live and there was no difference in handling between the 130 and 135i but torque out of tight corners made the 135i auto both quicker and easier to drive than the 130i which you had to get up it to make it fun. I guess like others here I had a lot of high HP cars so my Stage 1+ 335i never felt anything other than nice. BTW I have had one speeding ticket in the last 15 or so years for going 56 in a 50k zone, I was driving a Toyota Highlander.
  12. For the price premium you pay for a 130i manual you are into 135i auto territory. The big torque curve of the 135i works a lot better with the auto than the the 130 in my humble opinion.
×
×
  • Create New...