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You all should have entered Targa South Island (where the best roads in the world are hidden).. Caitlins Stage was 45km the most superb high-speed road in NZ, straights, banked corners, valleys, hills.. awesome ! Combine The Utimate Driving Machine and The Ultimate Road Race; enter the next Targa Tour in your BMW and have 160kph limit and use of both sides of the road

But probably deserves to be in the video section non the same ... Ill just leave this here.

Back ground: My introduction to BMW's was because of "she who must be obeyed" Quote "The truck just doesn't give off the right impression to our clients, you need to buy a car" So my first Bimmer was a E36 325M coupe I loved it, till I was accosted by a service station attendant asking about my M3. ???? So at my next service I asked the mechanic what's an M3 after the explanation he said that the one he would get, was a 1997 Evo 3.2 six speed. Months passed then on a visit to Jerry Clayton's what happen to be sitting there a Estorial Blue 1997 3.2 M3 After a test drive and a few days of negotiating with both JC and the wife. I became it's proud owner, below are listed the mods and upgrades I have done over the last 5 or so years. Hopefully you'll enjoy the notes and photo's and if you're luck enough to own one it may help you in some of your upgrade decisions. Thanks to all of those both on Bimmersport and other BMW forums around the world for their help over the years. Special Thanks to Dave Martin for his help and use of his workshop over the years Aug 2007 This is the CAI that I made. I also ran a tube up from the left brake duct + it still get air from behind the grill. Got hold of a indoor / outdoor thermometer 70C max output run round town with it in my engine bay, got readings of 70c + in the engine bay after a lot of stop starting at lights. Put one sensor inside the shield of the CAI fitted the other sensor outside, temp increased at the lights but within a km was back down to outside temp. But once I figure out what to line the inside of the shield with hopefully the increase temp at idle will be reduced. Trannie Mounts & Reinforces Braided Clutch line Braided Brake lines Nov 7 2007 Ground Control Complete Coil-over Kit, E36 Race (Or Serious Track) , (Completely Assembled) 2008 Couple of track days or should I say Driver Training days 2009 BBS 17X8 5X120 ET38 RX204 10.56kgs rims R888 235x45x17 - 2019: BBS RG-R (RG719) 17x8 5x120 ET40 7.66kgs: 2.9kgs saving per wheel Oct 28 2010 RacingBrakes.com Front RB 400 Calipers 4 pot, RB 2 piece rotors 328 X 28, RB Et 900 pads Rear Standard calipers (brass guides), RB 2 piece rotors 312 X 20, Hawk DTC-60 pads Dot 5 brake fluid Note changed front pads to Hawk DTC-70 (RB 900 pads didn't like Driver training) Had a bit of fun with these, the hats were 5mm to shallow, so the rotors rubbed on the lower ball joint. Racingbrakes USA came to the party sending me out new hats and caliper brackets at no cost. Did a trackday on checking the front pads the wear and condition of the drivers side pads was shocking. Worked out in the end that the design of the rotors (cooling) worked so well I had to block off the drivers side air duct.(passengers side blocked by CAI)So the pads could get up to operating temp. 2010 Base line Dyno 184kW (CAI ) 2011 Scorpion Back Box What a difference in weight between OEM and Scorpion. I got a bit of a shock when the OEM came off with me under it. Dyno 184.8kW (CAI,Back Box) Jul 10 2011 CF High Wing Rear Spoiler Reason for project I wanted to try out a high rear spoiler wing at Driver Training Days. So I brought a 2 piece low GT CF spoiler and a boot lid off trademe a month or 2 ago. The project was to try and turn the spoiler into a high 4 piece spoiler. I tried to make the risers myself starting out by forming the risers from foam not very successfully so I gave up and just cheated, brought a pair of risers from the states.I then had to figured out, how to connect the pieces together. Done Now this was my first attempt at CF and I have never done FG either, so it was pretty ambitious to say the least. With multiple angles, curves, sides and a join, laying out was fun. But the real fun started when trying to wet out the fiber. Here’s my process for what it’s worth Cut CF to approx size Mix 4:1 resin with a bit of black pigment added, for the first coat for depth Wet out riser, Lay down CF over riser, attempt to trim to make a nice join (never happened) Wet out top of CF x 3 approx 15min between coats, pour and brush coats on, turning the piece multiple times to try and stop runs and drips (as a dried drip has an air bubble under it) Hit the piece with a blow torch between coats to remove air bubbles (only mildly successfully) Let dry over night and then sand with 180, 400, 800, 1000 and 1200 to smooth Another top coat of resin to get the last ripples or low points out Let dry Sand 180, 400, 800, 1000 and 1200 Things I did wrong or didn't work for me When first wetting the form piece with black pigment resin don’t over wet or it seeps between the CF weave and you loss the pattern Don’t have any joins They say to dab the resin coats on with a paint brush, I tried and caught the weave Heat gun didn’t work on the air bubbles it didn’t get hot enough I think Put enough top coats down so you don’t sand down to the CF when trying to smooth out Conclusion If it’s your first time CFing and it’s a smallish, simple piece your doing, go for it. If it’s a complicated piece and for show give it to a professional Or if you’re like me and don’t mind that it’s not perfect because you hope you will be going so fast no one will see it or maybe the rest of the spoiler is not perfect either go for it. I purchased Carbon Fibre and resin from NZ Fibreglass. By the way the extra boot and spoiler will only be fitted when I go to Driver Training Days Project remaining items Clear coats and working out an easy way of disconnecting the wire loom in my boot. June 2011 Eibach Sway Bars ( I think) Front 26mm Rear 24mm Ground Control adjustable sway bar links front & rear Mar 2012 ATI Pod Auto Meter Gauges Phantom 11 Oil pressure and Water Temperature, Engine Mounts Poly, Braided Clutch line, Schroth Harness Quick fit(what difference at the Driver training days just being so planted in the vaders) Nov 2012 Exhaust upgrade I removed my mid section just before christmas and replaced it with twin 2.5" ,keeping roughly the same curves from the headers into straight through resonators where the small muffler was located. Had the car dyno'ed and compared it to a run when the stock mid section was on. Here we go: Dyno 189.7 kW (CAI, exhaust V:1) with overlay. Lost 48Nm below 3600 rpm, gained 16Nm after that till 5850 then decreased but stayed above earlier run when stock. Lost 5-10 Kw between 2000 -3600 There was a flat spot between 2550-2700 From 3600 up, got a solid 5Kw gain all the way Next I'll put a X pipe in and have it retuned. OEM V.1 (Just a note this version was fairly loud and had a real drone between 1700-2000rpm) 2013 JTD underpanel hoping for some drop in running temps, doesn't seem to have made a difference Exhaust V.2 Went with a merge pipe rather than a straight X pipe I made the exist pipes flare out gradually to the resonators Here's a description of my setup 2.5" twin pipes from the OEM headers. (following same route as OEM system) Merge pipe (approx 10" long) where the exhaust straightens(replaces cats) 2 straight through perforated resonators (replaces small muffler) scorpion muffler. Dyno 190.8kW (CAI,exhaust V:2) with overlay 1 kW gain so now at 190.8kW But regained 5-10kW between 2600-3500 Also the flat spot between 2550-2700 is gone. The exhaust noise/sound has reduced markedly when cruising no worries now about the police. Unless I plant it Drone has gone as well. Dyno Results 2010 My Base line Dyno 184kW (CAI) Dyno 184.8kW (CAI,Back Box) Dyno 189.7kW (CAI, Back Box, Exhaust V:1) 2013 Dyno 190.8kW (CAI, Back Box, Exhaust V:2) Dyno 197.5kW (CAI, Back Box, Exhaust V:2 Mapped) Thanks again to my mates, Dave and Mark without their talents and time most of these upgrades wouldn't have happened. Headliner and A pillars recovered As normal pulling something apart was the easiest part (once you work out the clips ) Approx 1.1/2 hr to remove Approx 3 hrs to re install everything Not a hard job for one person, If you're going to drive the car around after removal, put a drop sheet over your seats before you start and vacuum the foam roof liner when you're finished otherwise you get very itchy BLOODY FIBERGLASS Dyno 197.5kW (CAI, Back Box, Exhaust V:2 Mapped) Thanks to Gavin @ Hi Velocity for the work he did on the re-mapping. Time warp ? 2016 202 ye baby Out of time warp July 2013 power steering pump reconditioned both belts, 2 adjusting pulleys, Deflection pulley and the complete hydraulic belt tensioner, Iridium Engineering Vanos Kit installed Feb 2014 Beisan systems Euro S50 Double Vanos Seals Repair Kit and another Iridium Engineering Vanos Kit installed. Upgraded vanos bolts 8 x M5x20, 3 x M6x20, 6 x M5x16 all 10.9 and zinc plated. Reason for the above, exhaust side bolts sheared. Lucky I was only travelling at 40km hr and a few hundred meters from pulling into my mates workshop. When I stopped on the forecourt the vanos dumped 2/3rds of the engine oil on the ground. My guess is if I'd been on the mototway, stereo blasting that would have been the end of my motor. May 2014 update Shift-I Flat tri-colour it's is a progressive gear shift and RPM range indicator (I have had this for awhile now) These are more recent : Constant pressure valve, Rear quarter windows rubber covers Ready to clean off, old double sided tape Brake clean (good quality) and thumb pressure is the trick for removal Beautiful smartens it up nicely Windshield cowling Powerflex Front Control arm bushes and Rear Trailing arm bushes as well Jun 2014 installed new front RB Rotors, (brought in may 2013) Sep 2014 Fuel filter, Rear brake guides, boot struts installed Oct 2014 UUC stage 2 kit mmmm, it did balance up but not what I expected from UUC(sent them an email they never replied) $550US of parts from Pelican: Clutch parts, shifter parts, seals,bearings,clips etc (flywheel, ARP bolts not sourced from Pelican) Now I need to find myself a run round so I can take my car off the road. More parts still to order, but until I've dropped the gear box and the sump I wont know exactly what parts I need. My Christmas present arrived QuickJack no more jacking or jack stands Unpacked took me about 1 1/2 hours to set up. No leaks that's a miracle for me For my E36 M3 (By rights for the pickup points the 5000 is the right model) I chose the 3500 model because; The unit can fit in the car with the back seat down so portable, 5000 won't. My garage is always full of stuff so room around the car can be tight. My car is lowered so to get the jack stands in place takes 30 minutes. So this is my run-round for when my car is off the road, I've called it called " Minny Me", it got sea sick going up and down so may times Here's the view under my M3 For my E36 M3 As advised by another E36 owner US based, "I set mine up with, the front lifting points matching and the rears where it lands and have had no problems" I set the front pucks (38mm) under front mounting points, which left the rear pucks 270mm short of the ideal spot for their placement, I used the 75mm pucks on the rear and turned them sideways moving them to the inside edge of the frames I set the frames outside bar to run just outside of the body line of the car. Under advisement from a trusted source I have move the frames further in. Used the 75mm pucks front and back and moved them both onto the floor pan seam(see photos) Once raised to full height with the safety bar in place, I have 430mm clearance under the car and it feels very solid. (Total lift 445mm before lowering onto safety bar) With this setup I had 430mm all-round I got the pumps power supply from the engine bay. I have had the car sitting up for about 3hrs and have lowered it down I have checked the area around the rear puck location and it doesn't seem to have damaged the rear floor pan. Reasons for my setup I got my power from the engine bay because my Jumper leads clamps were to big for the area around my battery in the boot Why 38mm pucks up front, my cars approx 15mm to low to fit the 75mm ones up front. Because I'm now using the seam I can fit the 75mm pucks up front I started with 38mm pucks at the rear with the frame just under the body line, but found that the inside rear edge of the frame was hitting the rear floor pan and was also close to hitting the side skirts once I started lifting. Going to the 75mm pucks on the rear and turning them sideways and moving them towards the inside edge took pressure off the side skirts and moved the frame so it couldn't hit the rear floor pan. (Semi full write-up in the Race Series -Tech section of forum) Perfect: setting up outside took 5min 7 seconds Front puck location Rear puck location END OF PART 1, CONTINUDED ON PART TWO LINK http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/51595-m3-evo-32-1997-hackar-part-2/

M3power, Geoff steel racing have a good reputation

LOL ... If you do, make sure you have it in the contract that you get it for free if it doesn't make that HP ... Then just sit back and wait for your free motor to arrive.

Have a look at aaron harris' 3.0 s50 ... then youll remove any silly notions of buying crate motors from the states.

Generally you wait till the OBD throws a code, no way to tell it's bad until it's bad as far as I know. The O2 sensor only provides correctional data to trim the mixture to perfection. It will (or should) run fine without one on older cars. Newer ones have so many efficiency improvements a bad O2 can throw things quite out of whack. Not enough to wreck anything, but you'll see a reduction in power. Cats get wrecked by unburned fuel, even without the O2 sensor you shouldn't be running that rich, you can replace as preventative but IMO I'd wait.

Pic's for H

At the end of the day, a car is a car underneath. Modern or not, you pull it apart and put it back together again.. and modern cars pull apart and go back together a lot better than old ones I find as the parts are not old and crusty. Nothing to be scared of, I have had pretty much my entire 2006 Megane apart in different stages.. its no different than my old E30's. Something breaks, you google the problem or look it up in a manual, you remove the part, establish if its f**ked or not, order a new pat, fit it... if anything, modern diagnostic tools make it a lot easier, I remember spending the best part of a day trying to get my E30 to idle properly once, ended up swapping out most of the fuel system, was the AFM in the end. With my new car I just plug my scanner in and it pin points quite accurately where the problem is. And..... duct tape and cable ties work on all cars.

Picked up some new wheels today. Pics to come, prepare the torches and pitchforks.

Some pics form targa south island

If you're selling a leg, best to go SMG