nazistaffcar

1/2" = 12.7mm (only .3 of a mm less than 13mm for soft 13mm bolt heads that have rounded - will need a hammer to 'tap' it on. 5/8 = 15.9mm = only 0.1mm less than 16mm 15/16' = 23.8mm and going the other way using metric on imperial bolts) 7/16 = 11.1mm (use your 11mm spanner on a rounded 1/4" bolt head) 9/16 = 14.3mm 3/4 = 19.05mm!!! 7/8 = 22.2mm NO sh*t SHERLOCK!!!!!! As an engineer I can tell you that is why the cheaper tools cause problems...with stretch and the fact that most over zealous part-time "let's play" mechanics over tighten everything..........What I'm trying to say is that if you have a M3 or for that fact an M6(318 power or not) why the hell would you disassemble it with a 12" cresent, a butter knife(emergency flat head) and a 15lb sledge hammer?1/2" is 1/2", 13mm is 13mm, nevermind whack it with a hammer first!!!!! If the problem is rounded bolts remove them and store them safely in the rubbish bin. Wurth can supply what you require-as they supply 90% of fasteners to the German automotive manufacturers. Just remember spanners and sockets are kind of like your butt; once it's had something that is not designed to be in there, IT WILL NEVER BE THE SAME AGAIN!!!!!!!! So don't wreck your new tools....and as I was told during my apprenticeship.............. A GOOD TRADESMAN ALWAYS TAKES CARE OF HIS TOOLS

If your using Imperial sizes on metric bolts even if they are 'rounded' there is something wrong with your tools my friend.....if you have a vernier check the sizes, especially with open ended spanners they can stretch.....but it is common for cheaper tools to be quite oversize........ It may be worth contacting Trade Tools in Auckland, their Facom range is damned good for the price.....it's genuinely made in europe(by the french) and their range of torx tools can't be beaten. Their spanners are incredibly robust and dont have a chromium chipping problem...and to be honest, their screwdrivers are a vertual rip off of snap-on with a smaller price tag!However their socket sets can be a little pricey....I have a trade account with these guys so if your interested e-mail me and I'll screw you a mean as deal.....v84all@xtra.co.nz Just remember you pay for what you get....as with everything in life cheap is not nesessarily the best option......

And by the way bagging technology well hear goes.......turbo first used in the early 1930's by Mercedes, Alfa, etc on factory built road cars, though the aftercooler didn't appear until some time after...twin overhead camshaft and 4 or more valves was used in the 1920's by most european manufactures of performance vehicles which the majority were 4 or 6 cylinder, as for electronic injection that dates back to the mid 50's though pretty crude...electric windows&seats, cruise control, airconditioning and all the other mod cons have been around since the late 50's and early sixties so it aint something new!!!!!

I'm afraid that once again you missed the point......kiwis have a mentality that #8 wire can fix the problem....use what you have ...like the late greats-John Ohlson(kiwi builder of the Daytona coupe), Bruce McLaren(win everything at once),John Britten(f__k that was fast),Burt Munro(he's even faster)....and so the list goes on damn NZ even has the worlds fastest sidevalve V8 Rail with this type of mentality.....that car is someones interpretation of cool spent hours on it and it probably dont go half bad> and the motor was probably sat somewhere in need of a home 1+1=2 as for rice 'rocket' hating ooooh so wrong my friend my hilux is in for rebirth shortly with a 2.4 turbo (american spec 22RTE)....anytime you would like to be openminded and take a different view to american motoring I'm keen to offer one of my vehicles at pukekohe where maybe you may change your view, maybe not, but atleast I will haved tried to enlighten your fragile little mind.....

what I'm trying to say is that not all of us are the same dont knock the attempts of others as for gaymount-front mounted intercooler(though if you want to get technical an aftercooler) poo valve-bov valve and external genetalia-external waste gate..these are the choice of many but at the end of the day there is no substitute for cubic inches.....as an owner of a 1979 Gxl fairmont with dynoed 450bhp, a 1965 falcon 289 4spd dynoed at 370 bhp, a 1971 Dodge challenger 340 4spd which is being rebuilt as we speak, a 1990 hilux delux- bagged on 18's never mind the mrs's 323 msport I think that it may be possible to be open minded. To be honest I think that my challenger which weighs 3600lb and is factory rated at 275bhp would give the majority of you negative fools a run afterall 13.2 1/4 mile and a top speed of 140 mph and it's the weakest link, though I will admit the value of this vehicle has vertually doubled in the last 2 years with no money being spent on it.......We aint all the same for if we were we'd all be driving Corollas.......and if you have managed to pull off a better conversion then man up and put them pictures on the net if not dont complain by the way can you tell me which motor design still copied to day has produced the highest hp/cubic inch, has the world record for highest n/a out put, fastest 1/4 mile(piston powered), and fastest single engine land speed record? This basic compression camber design has been copied in particular by european manufacturers though they have place the cams on top!!!!!!!

Starchip has been round for ages, however I'd be a little suspect about the returns that they are promising. I had a ae86 toyota levin chip by them which resulted in a gain of 5hp and about 10 ft/lb of torque but in sying that weather conditions were different on the day of dyno...make your own conclusions...shortly after I replaced cams threw away the 'starchip' and replaced the factory ecu....what other mods have you done there maybe more to gain for cheaper just by increasing a injector size, fuel pressure, air filter and the inlet tract from airfilter to throttle body...dont forget exhaust (remove the cat or for those tree huggers out there replace with higher flowing cat) and this most importantly the O2 sensor in the exhaust. All the star chip does is alters factory signals to fool the ecu into believing that in is not operating at optimum..it is not a true fine tuning tool

possibly the biggest problem with aligning is the fact that the majority of guys doing the job follow their computer screen regardless of the facts of lowered/modified suspension, driving style, condition of the average NZ road(which is utter crap), but most importantly that their machine has never been calibrated right......THE best in Auckland is Tyreworx in NewLynn for a few reasons including that they use mechanical guages(older than the ark and Jesus was trained to use them) which are a lot more accurate-used by formula 1 teams for final alignment and that the guys doing the job actually care about what they are doing and they have more experience than the rest of the tyre shop monkeys in Auckland........simple solution would you trust a backyard mechanic to care for your pride and joy or do you take it to a professional?????????????

poverty pack 318 it may be, but at least its not a chev aka clitoris(cause every c__t has one) and unlike the windsor or chev it will rev(factory rev limit for 318 is 5800 not 5200 for the other two) dont forget it Mopar or no car If god made us all the same we would all be driving skylines with gay mounts, poo valves and external genitalias...............

Not to forget that Merc like all manufacturers does produce 'budget' vehicles in the lower socio economic countries, hence it would pay to ensure that this car has code compliant lights, seat belts, airbag, and most of all body work. Just cause its a benz doesnt mean that it is good.......I know of a couple of mercs from europe that have failed on compliance including a brabus 600sec and almost impossible to make legal due to expense

been there building that-non compliant 95 M3, no interior, cage heaps of camber and caster gonna show them rice rocket clowns that no hairdryer, gay mount and poo valve can do it - afterall the vehicle with the most drift cred is............................thats right ae86 toyota levin 1600 tin can with a grand total of 135bhp.....................

Any clues............blown head gasket, Head is shagged need to find a; anoyher head b;good preloved motor....for a german assembled (L/H drive) manual well optioned done 150000mls damn sexy even if has a dubious M badge

a trans cooler would be a decent idea providing you fit a decent one ie not just the condensor from the back of a fridge, B&M manufactures a nice unit that is cheap and attractive availible from repco/appco at the same time it may pay to add a transmission lubricant such as Translube or Transguard also availible from repco/appco

try ben on 021667447 tell him that uncle tom sent u

It is possible that the lay shaft bearings didnt like the grade of oil you have used, gearboxes can be a pain in the arse due to the fact they are quite often overlooked in servicing and after a while of rotating in their own excrement(ie metal filings) they tend to do weird things when u change oils.......Try some Redline gearoil-from BNT this oil is magigoo which will shut up the noisiest gearbag or diff watch the grading though and be prepared for a tough gearstick when cold...Rebuild in a bottle

seriously the truth on chain versus belt is easy.......they both have their downfalls but unfortunately cost has almost nothing to do with it.......a chain of X length is cheaper than a belt & the cost of a machined camgear to suit chain is more expensive than diecast cam gear...however harmonic vabration from a tensioned chain is greater than a belt and unfortunately the length of pitch(ie gap from roller to roller or tooth to tooth) on a chain is greater and therefore when manufactured, the ability for error is higher especially after mateing 2 machined surfaces like the head and block DUH :drugs: :drugs: :drugs: :drugs:

try gareth/dean at magwarehouse.com central 093030327 those boys dont just specialize in strapping on the bling bling and they have a storeroom full of springs made in christchurch if they dont have it in stock r it needs to be custom made it only takes a couple of days and they dont sell junk....they may even relieve your wallet of some 19's or 20's woooooohah mount up....tell them Tom sent you!!

dont forget the fact you'll get some change probably enough to buy some spare undies and a dinner for the mrs never mind possibly build both for around the 20k mark

15k mmmmmmm not road legal immediately well here goes E36 coupe toyota quad cam, manual, e34 lsd, full nascar style cage.awesome skids especially if you use 2uz 4.6 litre add a couple of garretts- huff and puff some serious boost maybe even some giggle for the suicide pilot....... or 2uz T88 turbo quad cam ford c4 auto hilux diff with 4 bars serios cage and run sub 10s with ability to run into the 8s

and dont forget the most ovious if you want to buy shizen then buy chinese......all those chain yankers that dont like them or the idea dont buy it .....simple....just remember its a long way to anywhere when u buy overseas and most offshore companies could care less about some Kiwi playing with a 20 year old kraut disposable car :finger: