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*Glenn*

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Posts posted by *Glenn*


  1. Due to other time consuming commitments, this project is now for sale

    Will sell complete with the 316 and the mock up car or seperately.

    Selling with everything I have so far

    M30 motor is a M535 10:1 compression motor done 89,000 miles ( can be confirmed )

    E28 Getrag 260 gearbox and driveshaft

    E34 sump, oil pump, engine brackets, power steering pump, alternator, front pulley, ignition trigger etc

    Engine brackets all profile cut, not welded up yet

    Will sell complete (both cars) for $7,000

    Or sell mock up car with M30 and everthing else for $2,000


  2. post-1129-1206114848_thumb.jpgpost-1129-1206114651_thumb.jpgpost-1129-1206114349_thumb.jpg post-1129-1206114483_thumb.jpg

    Selling this car now

    1990 face lift

    3 owners NZ new 210,000km

    Manual, air con, manual steering, custom sports seats

    Alarmed with 2 remotes and keys

    Have fitted fog lights and tail lights painted red now. Black kidney grills

    Recent cambelt, radiator, water pump, cam kit

    Sports exhaust...sounds good and not loud

    New clutch

    Z3 short shifter (genuine)

    New battery

    New starter

    Near new Pirelli tyres

    Lowered with king springs and new shocks 5 years ago (172,000km)

    Tow bar removed but is available with car (with fitting instructions)

    I have been servicing this car for 5 years now and it runs better than most 318's Ive driven

    $5000..... No offers and no trades

    I can provede receipts for $13,800 worth of repairs & maintanence carried out over the past 5yrs

    I can fax copies on request if need be

    Cheers Glenn


  3. Correct me if im wrong, but m40, last i heard is chain driven,

    You a corrected !! sorry you are wrong. M40 is belt driven. M10 is chain driven

    M40 cambelts must be replaced every 40,000km, M20 every 60,000km or 5 years which ever occurs first

    $400- $500 is about right dependant on what is required.

    Cambelt

    Water pump

    Idler rollers

    Tensioner

    Rocker cover gasket

    Coolant

    + Labour & GST

    Could also need distributor cap & rotor too


  4. hey guys. doing some work on one of the workmates cars. its a 1996 328i and the heater blows mildly warm on one side and no heat atall out of the other side. it has the fully automatic heater control with dual climate zones.

    i have a sneaky suspition i know what is wrong but am not 100percent sure. where the heater pipes (3 of them) go through the firewall. 2 of them conect to what looks like a little regulator. it has a pipe in the bottom which gets hot. but the 2 pipes coming out of it are not very hot atall.

    can anyone help?

    cheers. oli

    Thats called a duo valve. Take it off and have alook inside the ports where the hoses go on. The diaphrams are probably collapsed. Replace if they are collapsed and you should be fine.


  5. Nope, never even heard of it. The Megasquirt seems the way to go right now. It's under $300 for what I need. I'll do a bit of research on that ECU. The West Oz dealer is like 5 minutes from my place.

    Also... there are always cheap piggyback ecu's on ebay here... there is one there at the moment for like $1 and 1 day left on it with one bid... however, it is to suit a different type of vehicle and a four cylinder. I think they are universal and that I can just reset it back to stockand wire it to my pc?

    Also noticed you worked in the industry, what am I looking at in terms of pricing for a Link ECU?

    NZ$1,000 Check out the link I posted, you can email or phone them...great guys and really helpfull


  6. Hi I have a 728i 2001 E38 two issues:

    1. One of the keys does not work to lock and unlock the doors. I dont think it is working at all.

    I have tried re-initialise it but that did do anything. Do I have to get this from the dealer, or can I go

    aftermarket somewhere.

    2. The key that does work is set to move the seats, mirror etc to a certain position, but it is tailored to the old owner, how can I change this to suit me?

    (1) Quite often people dont get this right, and you need to do both keys at the same time, one after another. If the key is knackered, Dealer only, its micro chipped.

    (2) Have you got an English Manual for the car ? Its all explained in there. Did you try setting your seat memory. Adjust your mirrors first, then seat position and save in position (1)


  7. Hey all,

    I posted a question not long ago about my 87 E30 325i having a problem with the starter motor, i am now looking for somewhere to get it fixed. Can anyone suggest a gud mechanic in north shore or even better whagaparoa area that is good with older bmw's.

    Cheers

    Ben

    Bavarian Motors Ph. 4445312

    Ask for Ernst


  8. Before you start this project Adam, these are some of the things you must research & consider.

    First research it and see what others have done before (I like to be different)

    Auto is harder because the bell housings are bigger....reduces all clearances

    Clearances are the major factor

    Using stock motors the issues are: bell housing, brake booster, cross member, steering rack, radiator, airflow meter and distributor cap clearances

    You will need to make up engine mounts

    Modify driveshaft and gearchange

    Change diff ratio

    Modify cooling system.. no viscous fan ( no room )

    Use E28 radiator- modify for mounts

    I'm doing this:

    635 10:1 comp ratio motor

    E28 lightened flywheel

    E34 getrag 5 speed

    LSD .. probably a 3.64:1

    E34 M60 V8 hydraulic brake system..works off p/steer pump (130bar) with accumulator & pressure regulator

    No distributor.. "Link" G3 ignition only, 60-2 trigger system

    Coil over, wasted spark ignition (e36 coils)

    I'm going to run carburettors with custom airbox & CAI

    Extractor exhaust system (custom)

    Custom, encaptured engine mount brackets(my design) with E39 mounts

    E30 engine oil cooler with custom lines

    Diode switched electric cooling fan (stock) running dual high/low switches 80' low speed 90' high speed

    Complete refresh of engine, port & polish, blueprinted intakes, cam, balance

    Then theres the suspension and brakes to consider as well. I'm going 5 stud with E36 front struts (coil over)& adjustable top mounts, E30 rear sub frame with E36 318TI flanges & w/bearings. Standard vented E30 rear brakes

    with E46 330 front rotors & callipers. All new eurothane front and rear bushes & HD sway bars.

    This list might put you off, however thats what you need to consider before you start

    Personaly, I wouldnt use the M30 2.5. You would be better off sticking to the M20 2.5 and refresh the motor. It would cost less. Remember the M30 weighs alot more. My project car is an E30 316 therefore my gains are going to be an extra 1900cc with the mods I'm expecting to get the 218hp engine up to around the 250+ mark

    So far Ive spent more than 100hrs getting sorted to mock up stage in a deregistered E30 325 shell. Once I'm happy with the mock up it all goes into the 316 for final check. Then out for the engine rebuild and then the final fitting. Then its on to suspension, brakes, mags & tyres,exhaust and over to Gavin @ High Velocity to get dyno'd

    Hope this all helps with your decission

    Cheers

    Glenn


  9. http://www.hksusa.com/products/more.asp?id=1965

    Will this be OK for my Turbo 327i install? I can pick up one second hand used for a SR20DET for $200... just unsure on the tuning. Maybe I am better off with a Megasquirt which has been proven.

    Alot of Australians are telling me to go with something that can be tuned at a shop... like a Haltech/Wolf3D... however I think Megasquirt is the way to go. Just ordering from America is a pain in the...

    Have you considered "Link" ??

    http://www.linkecu.com/

    Cheers

    Glenn


  10. I finally got around to phoning Glen. What a top bloke - told me to bring my car down, even though it was Saturday and he does not normally work Saturdays. Problem sorted quickly and with no fuss. All this for very reasonable cost, and very good advice (probably will save me $$$ in the medium-long run) thrown in for free. Thanks, Glen. I am lucky I live handy to Botany Motor Worx - I now have a great place to get a great service. BTW, the project car looks intriguing too! I am a very happy camper again. :D

    Thanks Brett

    BTW the reasonable price was "FREE" and so was the advice :P

    When you get approached by nice people who need help, and the right attitude, its great to help them out.

    I get alot of arseholes coming in here "do it now" "do it cheap".........my answer.... fark off

    Glad I could help you out there Brett :D

    Cheers

    Glenn


  11. Try a wheel alignment first by someone who knows what they are doing ( camber is adjustable, but limited). Try that and see if its ok. You might still have to tweak the camber switch linkage in the right dirrection to sort it though. We got involved with this about 2 yrs ago, but I've forgotten exactly what we did. But I'm sure the car we did it on had the hydraulic shocks removed. We just had to get the warning signal stable


  12. E36 facelift do use lifetime oil (at least mine is)

    Was quote $850 by another BMW Sepcialist to do the same procedure. Apparantly, those "lifetime" fluid (Esso LT71141 or equiv.) are real expensive. To the point that BMW's maintainance documents (TIS) actually say those fluid are meant to be saved and reuse if transmission service is needed. Go figure.

    $180 was more like the standard stuff. That's what a Honda Civic would cost for a tranx fluid change.

    I saw that in TIS.....I would never reuse old oil, how friggen silly is that. $850 was a "little" over the top. And half the time most dont Scan and clear adaptions because they dont have the equipment. To do it properly, its not a "5min" job and you need to let it drain with the filter off for at least an hour to allow the torque convertor to drain.

    Done properly it will take approx 5 litres of fluid.


  13. I stand corrected.....never seen one....never worked on one either :(

    Its not listed in my vehicle ID (BMW NZ) either and my version of ETK doesnt go back that far

    Getting back on topic though, we need to know exactly what Adams got. Big block M30 chain drive 2.5 or M20 cambelt 2.5. If its an M20 the jobs easier than the M30. If it is the M30 hes got a sh*t load of modifying to do. I know this because thats what I'm doing on the E30 335cc Project

    Cheers

    Glenn


  14. IF you pay that much you're getting ripped off, I paid less than $180 for mine - can't remember how much exactly, I'll try dig out the last service receipt for the 320 ...

    Ripped off ????

    Bullshit :rolleyes: ....go do your maths

    The fluid is $28.46 a litre +GST, filter & pan gasket $100 (OE is is more expensive) + 1hr labour +gst

    If thats all it cost you, they used the wrong oil and didnt do it properly, thats if your trans is "longlife"

    If its not longlife $180 is still cheap, and they probably didnt use full synthetic, or remove the pan & filter.

    Did they just drain and refill with new oil ??? if so, thats not doing the job properly.

    You actually got what you paid for " a cheap job "

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