M3AN

I was quietly impressed when I saw this at the last coffee and cars meet. There's not much more to say really and I don't want to get soppy but again, this is top shelf work.

^ but it's not a "low volume" vehicle is it?

Edit: in reply to Mike's comment, not Julian's.

^ stalker.

I think the 8 and 5 series of the era use the same points, I'm sure we could get Martin (BreakMyWindow - M5) or Julian (jeffbebe - 850) to test them.

My M3 is comparatively light so tbh, if they work for you they'll probably work for me!

Were the bendy steel ones tube or solid? and were they slotted to accomodate the little points used for cover retention? The bar on these is 21.5mm diameter, with a distance between jack and body of like 60mm, so it should pretty much all be in shear.

The ones that bent were from a traditional US supplier... tubed steel with the slots. TBH I'm not sure of the parameters required for a "good" one and I'm certainly not criticising yours. Are yours solid or tubed?

Aluminium, 6061 I'm pretty sure, lifting use only, axle stands must be put under the normal points and take the load before car is worked on.

Interesting. A friend of mine had his steel ones bend and that was just from lifting (not holding).

I'm not so sure I want aluminium ones... capability to make them from steel?

They'd end up 30-50 bucks each, depending on volume...

Still keen...

Made some jacking thingos the other day...

Keen to make any more? I'll buy one or two...

You should direct your comments to op not me mate, he calls them idiots then goes on to say "I'm not sure if you guys support naming and shaming on this forum if you do let me know, im happy to out these guys!"

I effectively told him that I do not support that kind of crap. Got a problem talk to the guys face, but don't threaten to defame someone or talk sh*t behind their back especially when you have no idea what you're talking about.

I'm honestly just standing up for my beliefs and have certainly not "flipped". I probably shouldn't have questioned his mental stability, it just seemed probable considering the conclusion he came to. I just seriously thought hard about what I just said, hope that's ok?

...

I don't think I'm the only one on this forum that would stand idly by and let someone unjustifiably bag the name of a professional workshop be it mine or anyone elses. To be sure if the o-ring wasn't there, it would be somewhat justified, but it is and hes not. I'm gonna leave it there.

Dude!?

He hasn't called anyone out yet, he's just asked the question.

And you've flipped out and called him 'mentally challenged'.

You seriously need to think about the words you type.

I didn't say he was wrong i asked if he was mentally challenged...

WTF? :-/

Not sure everyone is on the same page...

How many o-rings are visible? (1?)

How many o-rings should there be? (2?)

Something doesn't add up. Rather than just saying 'you're wrong' how about you all elaborate for the benefit of the rest of us? One way or the other.

LMAO. I called a local sandblaster. $15 and it'll take about 10 mins while I wait..

I guess thats a bit better than $40 for a can of stripper and the 3 hours it took my to get the wheel stripped properly.

ha ha. Live n learn.

Can sandblasting damage the wheels in any way?

Shouldn't...

He did say that it will pit some of the newer wheels. I'll take in the worst of the 5 I have and see how it goes.

...but this is a good idea.

Surely sandblasting would only be about $25 a wheel?

If it weren't for that interior I'd be tempted. I have no problem with light on dark (I have Lotus White on black myself) but the two-tone plastics don't do it for me.

You should name them if you're confident your story is accurate. However if they're sponsors then I'd PM them first, negotiate a resolution and then report the good story back here.

So very sweet.

Interesting, good to be corrected on that because I've believed it for a long time! Seems like an internet myth but repeated less frequently now than back in the day.

Damnit, someone give me $100k to play with.

Wasnt that engine the basis of the mclaren f1s powerplant?

The S50 was the basis of the McLaren F1, they soldered two together I think (may have also used duct tape).

So brake fluid flush and bleeding with a one man bleeding kit, happily done rear end first and all seemed well, missus came out to help with fronts... somthing I'd not been able to see from the drivers seat is that the bubbles just don't seem to stop. So either the nipple is letting some air in as the fluid goes past... or is master cylinder cooked.

I'd always thought the brakes seemed a little soft, effective but soft. Old fluid was cloudy and very dark yellow.

https://youtu.be/e3ICe_SgVxk

On a probably related note, i noticed for the fronts that if i didn't take about 2 seconds to push on brake pedal and liftup over a second, it didn't seem to reload with fluid and only pumped a small amount through

If it is the master cyclinder, is it best to rebuild or replace and/or upgrade?

Smear thick, gunky grease around the nipples, that'll sort you out.

My 1989 VR-4 (4G63 ftw) had it, it was available since 1988 on that platform.

Mitsubishi eventually replaced it with a tricky centre diff (AYC - Active Yaw Control) and that was way, way, way, way better.

Link? Cost?

Looks grand in silver too. Not sure about his claims about the 5 speed though?

And boy, isn't Richard looking chav in that video!

Perfect project for you Mike!

Mmm!

If you want me to have a squint and chuck it on the diagnostic computer let me know bud.

Nice.