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Everything posted by M3AN

  1. Lovely, looks a bit lower than stock suspension too... interested in the width and offset of the wheels and details on that rear spoiler. New to you?
  2. Like this: https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/other-accessories/listing/2982906629 Or this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001694590566.html ?
  3. Epic. Thank you for doing sh*t like this. And sell me one of those bumpers please.
  4. Yes, the way that I can explain it is that it's the same fun, just delivered more quickly.
  5. He doesn't seem to have a lack of bidders. I suspect he's satisfied with his approach.
  6. @m325i - I was being cheeky when I said don't ask but your question about cost is valid and I believe in increasing community knowledge. I could share my absolute cost but that's irrelevant in this space, it depends so much on deals, relationships, discussions and timing that it's not a fixed cost. Expect to pay about $2k to get it done properly, assuming no extras.
  7. That would be frustrating. But I'm not sure that your analogy works... In this case it would be like saying "imagine if you find a car you want on Trademe... it shows pictures of everything but the body and chassis rust." You only want it if it has... ???". What? Heaps of rust? Really good rust? Great condition rust? The seller was clear here - it has roadworthy concerns, it has serious rust, you need to inspect in person, you can't drive it away... I'm not sure if s/he could have waved a bigger flag.
  8. Yep, INPA is fine. All else fails I can read your codes if you're around about Ellerslie.
  9. Wut?!? No drive-by shrapnel signs? I'm disappointed!
  10. 3.62 - a number that should roll off the tongue as it should have rolled off the factory floor. Diff rebuilt by KBM with a 3.62 crownwheel and pinion from an e46 M3, bumped from the stock Evo ratio of 3.23. Diff seals replaced with new, all other diff internals checked and cleaned but otherwise left as the Bavarian engineers deemed appropriate. Flex disc (guibo) also replaced at the same time, mine was well rooted. The CW&P that went in apparently had no usage marks or scars at all and my LSD internals were in "great" condition, nice. First impressions are actually quite subdued, it's not a night and day difference but for sure, it is a difference. I think the thing I'm most satisfied with is that it feels so OEM, it's takes nothing at all away from the 'factory feel' of the car, it really could have rolled off the production line like this. But it's certainly more urgent, everywhere. Every gear (perhaps with the exception of 1st) is totally more usable in the new range, it feels like it should have been like this all along. Even 5th at highway speeds allows you to pull instantly rather than wait a bit then pull. At 120 it sits perfectly on 3k rpm in 6th (which is nice because then both the needles are almost perfectly parallel). BMW clearly learnt from the S50 era and certainly got the ratios right in the S54 edition. Chirps in 1st and the change to 2nd are more easily induced but it doesn't feel wild like an unusually light flywheel does, launching and gear changes are no more difficult than before. But an extra gear change to 100km/h so no new records there, it's bouncing at 95km/h in second now. I've had the CW&P sitting in a box for nearly 2 years now whilst waiting for moons to align and I'm glad they finally have, I'm most satisfied. It feels like 30 more hp and lot more torque, weight-for-weight I'd have no problems betting on this against a standard e46 M3 now. I kept the stock CW&P in case I ever sell the car so it comes with all the matching/factory parts. Just don't ask how much it cost all in! 😂 @sweetm3 - time to arrange a drive me thinks!
  11. Wow, a CSL with PDC, I wonder how many of those were optioned? Apparently you could spec a CSL up to a similar weight as a base spec M3.
  12. I spoke to my solicitor mate about this and he said the seller is doing the right thing by requesting personal inspections. If he provides photos and/or details that leads somebody to believe the vehicle could be roadworthy then he's in the poop, by forcing people to make their own judgements he's sufficiently arms-length from the decision that he can't be implicated. Friend did agree that keeping the rego on hold is not a good idea, he loses nothing by cancelling it and gains nothing by keeping it but he does expose himself to bureaucratic costs if a buyer complains to the tribunal (however unlikely they are to succeed). As a side note, allowing somebody to use a lift, or get under a car on a lift, is apparently a worse liability.
  13. M3AN

    Quick rant thread.

    You can leave whenever you want. You just can't come back quickly and that's inconsequential to the rest of us. Sorry. I'm open minded to a better solution but nobody has come up with one yet. Although I do like the idea of building a 3000 head quarantine facility near an airport. The problem with that is Labour have proven they can't build anything quickly so we'd all be vaccinated by the time it opened. Within probably 6-8 months your vaccination certificate will be a free pass back into the country, that's a small wait in the scheme of things.
  14. Nope, you can't contract out of the CGA but he's selling it explicitly as non-roadworthy so I think he's fine. He would be better off to cancel the registration though rather than keep it on hold, that creates minor ambiguity.
  15. I have a bunch (maybe 6) of beaten up coupe front doorcards you can have for free if you need anything off them.
  16. M3AN

    Tesla E36

    I want a bit of this... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pHaqiWcWSIc
  17. I'd say 4+ grand over market... it's nice but it (probably) has no LSD. You and I need to be mindful of that when assessing these things because without the LSD they're half the car they should be. I'd never spend premium money on a manual 130i unless I was committed to adding a proper diff.
  18. That sucks. The only things I can think of are: Did you recalibrate the motor endpoints? Is the eccentric shaft cog damaged, even slightly? To be honest I'm not sure how you inspect the shaft/cog but I read that it has tiny tolerances. Having said all that if the motor is only working some time then it's probably electrical or electronic. Here are a couple of links that don't make for fun reading... https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2016/MC-10151247-9999.pdf https://freewechat.com/a/MzIyNDE2NTMxNg==/2650845166/5?raw (I used Google Translate)
  19. I actually think, given the tools at your disposal, it's a pretty good job!
  20. Low km PFL manual with a nice Stoptech BBK but at $16k, I think not. https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/listing/2982686292 You can get a 135i for less than that if you're patient.
  21. I use these, pretty trick and no extra NVH: https://www.vibra-technics.co.uk/bmw/e46_inc_compact_excludes_xi/528/BMW360M/front_engine_mount_petrol_engines_only Otherwise I'd go for M3 mounts, depends on how deep your pockets are feeling.
  22. Smooth as bro, just like she used an Epilady!
  23. Nice, welcome Ryan... what colour is that, looks to have some purple in it, might just be the light.
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