M3AN

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/130i/listing/5308928309 🤨

Not sure which thread to actually put this in but... "Downforce wing – subtle but sharp", an absolute requirement for the throttle controller - https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/130i/listing/5313034101

No, mine has been laid up for a month on a battery tender and nothing strange upon opening the doors when I got into it today, and I didn't start it immediately. Certainly no extended pump priming. When I did start it, it fired up like new.

Mine is now listed on Trademe also, the free listings today gave me the necessary kick in the arse (and rewarded my procrastination). Bimmersport members should contact me here first if they're interested. https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/listing/5313134381

Now listed on Trademe, Bimmersport members should contact me here if you're interested in the car. https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/listing/5313134381

Now listed on Trademe, Bimmersport members should contact me first. https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/listing/5313134381

He's certainly using a scale I'm unfamiliar with, two hideous SUV's? No. Putting "all" M3's at the top is sort-of a cop-out but I get it, but he could have hit the mark with either the Sport Evo or E46 CSL. And no space in "cool" for the 1M (or M1)? Weird.

Holy crap! Maybe I have a chance. 🤔

When I eventually put my auto 130i up for $11k I'll probably qualify for an entry! 😂

Not quite my style but a weapon of a car and you don't see many around which makes them special, more pics please! Lot's of help in Welly (where I am today as a coincidence), give it a few days and you'll get some leads here. Welcome! 🍻

It's certainly not 200k over priced... in a soft market they're still worth 90-140k depending on quality and history (in NZ some are ruined already and others have hardly ever been driven). It'll sit for a while at 250k, but we know how the game works... it's a headline number only, attention grabber.

An injector service is cheap enough and with some miles under the belt always advisable but something every 10 seconds or so probably doesn't line up with an ignition cycle, I'd expect more frequent "misses". Have you done a DIS VANOS diag? What about a smoke test? These things, certainly as they get older, are prone to vacuum leaks. Also, never diagnose startup or idle issues until the SAP has done its thing, it creates all sort of bumps, lumps, and noises during warm up. Happy to listen to it, or plug it in, if you can drag it to Epsom at a suitable time.

Lovely example, that engine cover is mega! GLWS.

That's a lot of car, and looks to be in good nick, but yes, not low miles at all (>30k pa!) and is a dreamer price.

What's the issue and what diagnostics have been undertaken to date?

Bump. Heading to Trademe this weekend, I'm going to up the price over there (even if that's optimistic), I'll honour the price listed in this thread for BS members and might even make it negotiable (for members).

So close...

Try popping the card off the door, starting at a corner. You'll be able to pop the clips even if some screws are still in place. Once you've sussed out the clips you'll be able to determine if there are any remaining screws. Edit: there won't be any screws around the perimeter of the door card so you don't need to be concerned about pulling one out.

Let's not mention the US S52 that wasn't really a proper M engine at all But I tend to agree with Dan, no need to call it an "M2", it really isn't.

There is possibly a screw under the inside door handle, or door handle trim, I'd check there also (remove the plastic trim surrounding the door handle and inspect). On a separate note, that's a really weird position for a door handle, it's so far back it must be inconvenient to use. The clips that hold the door card on, once all of the screws have been removed, are hidden behind the panel and you'll need to pry the panel off to release them, sometimes you'll need to use quite a lot of force. I recommend starting at one corner using a plastic pry tool (or something that won't damage the door card or the door paint) to release the clip(s) there, once you've done one you'll know what to expect for the others, then work your way around the perimeter. Once you've released all of the clips you'll be able to establish whether you've removed all of the necessary screws (because if not, the card won't come off). You'll also need to navigate the door lock shaft if there is one but that's simple enough. And be mindful of connections for the window switch and speakers, the cables are short.

Don't be too concerned, it's been openly discussed here before many times, including many admins and moderators. The go-to location used to be bimmergeeks.net but they no longer host it after BMW told them off. But, as you've obviously established, it's widely available elsewhere.

And 4 cylinders... 🤨

Whilst this is true, 70% isn't enough to lift the labels so you gotta start high. Now, having said that, I didn't need to soak them for long enough to actually worry too much about evap, the towels were still moist as I lifted the labels. I went in unsure, some internet "facts" say you need to leave it soaking for 15 mins, I didn't have to wait that long.

Now, is this mod #9, or just an aesthetic "fix"? I don't know but I hate these obnoxious labels... So, some research determined that I have the necessary elements in my garage (and kitchen) already, and some time on my hands, so let's get into it... Rear as well... And after about 90 mins (that included a lot of waiting) I'm happy with the result. I could easily do it in 40 mins or less now, I wasted much time by using IPA that too much alcohol had evaporated from, and I spent too much time fruitlessly trying to get rid of the resulting ghosting/shadows. I don't think you can get rid of the residual shadows, even acetone makes no difference. But it's hardly noticeable, and far less obnoxious, than the bright stickers... and a lot less expensive than buying new ones without stickers! You need IPA that's a least 91%, mine is 100% but I used the residual I had in a spray bottle and that had evaporated to the extent that it did nothing and I was about to walk away from the effort until I tried it straight from the original bottle and that worked fine. The key is to leave it on long enough to dissolve the adhesive without dissolving the actual label (or you'll spend hours picking off the tiny bits).

Correct, a TPMS failure will disable both DSC and Sport mode (on the OG M2). @Gorrington - I can possibly code the TPMS system to off for you if you need a short-term fix, and back on again at a later date if required. Edit: https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1309672